Does anyone else Who has one of the Fiskars axes think that the orange section of the handle is too slick to get a good grip on. I have one of the smaller axes and find it slippery especially with some types of gloves.
Small axe for wedge driving
- Thread starter blsnelling
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whitedogone
Addicted to ArboristSite
1 1/4# sure seems small
Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
The only one I've ever needed...
Stihl splitting hatchet
Don't know how many cords of wood I've split with one while camping over the last 10 years, but it's been a lot. I love it and never go into the woods without it.
:agree2:
Brad, this is where you wanna be, perfect little axe for the job.
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
All the good ones are simple copys of the original Marbles Belt axe.
Darn near straight handle and all....
just sayin'.
I run a Truper plastic handle and an old Scout Hatchet 'cuz they havn't been destroyed or lost in the snow yet.
When I find my old Marbles axe it will get a new handle painted Neon Pink.
I have lost that thing and found it again half a dozen times now....it'll show back up when it's ready.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
Darn near straight handle and all....
just sayin'.
I run a Truper plastic handle and an old Scout Hatchet 'cuz they havn't been destroyed or lost in the snow yet.
When I find my old Marbles axe it will get a new handle painted Neon Pink.
I have lost that thing and found it again half a dozen times now....it'll show back up when it's ready.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
You're thinking to small, like some others have said you really want about a 3lb head on a short stick.
Evanrude
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is the Fiskars I use. It works great and isnt too bulky to carry around. I use a 6# maul for the big felling jobs. I havent driven a metal headed wedge with it, but I never get vibes from plastic wedges. My main purpose for it is driving wedges while bucking. I love fiskars products as they're indestructible (good thing when your hard on tools like me).
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Worthless. Might as well pound it in with your boot.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only with a mullet, wife beater and sneakers.
The tool in question needs to be heavy enough to drive a wedge with control using as few swings as possible. Axes for use with one hand and/or two, the handle should be at least as long as your forearm, preferably elbow to finger tips. Shorter length(choking up on a bat) can be used for control but the head should stay heavy. Typically for one handed use the handle needs to fit in palm so that your palm wraps at least 1/2 way around. Tapered handles allow for longer use as they can help compensate for grip fatigue.
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TotalNZ
ArboristSite Lurker
Doesn't an axe mash the end of your wedges?
Here in NZ tree fallers all use purpose built hammers for driving wedges, mines a 3lb thorace deadblow hammer with steel shot in the head and replacable plastic strike pads.
I'll take some pics of my felling belt and gear this weekend and post it up.
Here in NZ tree fallers all use purpose built hammers for driving wedges, mines a 3lb thorace deadblow hammer with steel shot in the head and replacable plastic strike pads.
I'll take some pics of my felling belt and gear this weekend and post it up.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some questions for you to help explain some of the responses you might get.
How much $ are your wedges?
How much $ is the purpose built hammer? I am familiar with those hammers.
Do you also carry an axe?
I am sure that some folks here use that type of driver but for many the axe is a multipurpose task master.
The wedges do suffer from the axe impact but not enough from me to give up the additional benifits of having the axe.
TotalNZ
ArboristSite Lurker
Yeah, i can understand how an axe could be a handy tool but all i'm doing is felling the tree then moving to the next one so all i need is something to drive the wedges when i need them.
The wedges vary in price, the stihl plastic wedges i reckon are the best and go for around $15NZ. The hammer is a little overpriced in my opinion at around $100NZ but the cheaper ones dont have the steel shot in them.
The steel shot in the head really adds to the blow you can deliver and eliminates jarring.
whitedogone
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is probably pretty boring for most guys here. But, I found it to be an interesting read.
http://www.gransfors.us/TheAxeBook.pdf
http://www.gransfors.us/TheAxeBook.pdf
akennyd
ArboristSite Member
Yet another interesting thread!!!
After reading this and after using my 14" Fiskers hatchet to push over some small pines, I've decided the Fiskers just ain't working out. Head just too light and the small back is beating the heck out of my plastic wedges. Still would like to have one small enough to wear on a belt but a little larger than the fiskers.
My local Home D. says they carry the Estwing Hatchet and a 26" Estwing Campers Axe. I like the idea of being able to use one hand to hit with, the 26" may be a bit much to one hand.
Kenny
John 3:16
After reading this and after using my 14" Fiskers hatchet to push over some small pines, I've decided the Fiskers just ain't working out. Head just too light and the small back is beating the heck out of my plastic wedges. Still would like to have one small enough to wear on a belt but a little larger than the fiskers.
My local Home D. says they carry the Estwing Hatchet and a 26" Estwing Campers Axe. I like the idea of being able to use one hand to hit with, the 26" may be a bit much to one hand.
Kenny
John 3:16
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Well, I still have the busted aluminum little league bat...:monkey:
I don't fall trees. In my pickup, I have an axe that was used to cut lines and has a nice indentation in the blade. I'll use that to get wedges in.
I added to that a couple weeks ago. Found a roofing? axe while picking up garbage. If I need to chop, I have a pulaski.
lowes and homedepots have those dead blow hammer for like 50us bucks . one side usualy has bigger sledge hammer face and the other side is ball peen. the hammers range in size from small to big.
if you have axcess to a MAC or snapon truck youl probly find a large asortment onboard because mechanics like to bang on things
if you have axcess to a MAC or snapon truck youl probly find a large asortment onboard because mechanics like to bang on things
No fiskars
The Fiskars axes aren't made for driving wedges. The backs are too small, not square, and the handle is too exposed for a miss, especially on a steel wedge. If you don't make good contact and slip off the wedge, you could easily remove some of the material holding the head in place.
I use a 4# axe with about a 25" handle that I got at an auction for $0.50. Works ok, but it is a little rough.
The Fiskars axes aren't made for driving wedges. The backs are too small, not square, and the handle is too exposed for a miss, especially on a steel wedge. If you don't make good contact and slip off the wedge, you could easily remove some of the material holding the head in place.
I use a 4# axe with about a 25" handle that I got at an auction for $0.50. Works ok, but it is a little rough.
Bushman_269
ArboristSite Operative
I have one of the Lowes fiberglass handled hatchets in my chainsaw box that rides on the 4 wheeler (along with spare chains, etc. for the saws). It comes in handy for tapping (not driving) wedges as it just doesn't have enough heft for heavy driving duty. I always carry a 6 lb. splitting maul that gets to do the heavy lifting when pounding wedges. If you are using wedges to hold the cut open the hatchet will likely be sufficient but if you need to lift a tree get something bigger.
I bought the little Kobalt this morning. But I'm also going to pick up a 3#er with about a 20" handle as well. I'm going with the two axe plan Maybe three if I pick up a Fiskers Super Splitter.
Maybe three if I pick up a Fiskers Super Splitter.Similar threads
