So I was looking for an 044 project saw...

[homelitejim]

The best part about this rebuild is.... The next one will be easier, I had my buddys 075 apart and back together so many times, it had become like second nature, so when I got a 041 super( basically same design) took me 5 minutes to have it stripped to the case, just waiting on funds to do a complete rebuild.

 

[stderr]

The best part about this rebuild is.... The next one will be easier, I had my buddys 075 apart and back together so many times, it had become like second nature, so when I got a 041 super( basically same design) took me 5 minutes to have it stripped to the case, just waiting on funds to do a complete rebuild.

Lol, sounds like yes.

Clutch drum & (new) rim sprocket went on next. Asking for the service manual and parts list in the beg for manuals thread paid off large. There's a little cover plate that goes under the clutch shoes, I guess to keep the shoes from hitting anything underneath. I confess I couldn't initially remember where it went. I had to back up a couple of steps after putting the clutch assembly on.

I sprung for a new brake cover too. The old one was black around the clutch drum, and had a hole right where the big chain-brake tension spring goes. It's missing an M4x12 screw which I, of course, failed to notice. Well, I noticed an extra hole, but was I smart enough to order the screw?

I also added a chain catcher, another thing missing from the saw. It looks like the original dawg screw used to hold the catcher must have stripped at some point. It's been tapped for a 1/4" screw. I drilled the catcher mounting hole out so the bigger screw would fit through. Hope it still works.

 

[bcorradi]

Are you running .404 on that saw?

 

[stderr]

Are you running .404 on that saw?

Yes. Why do you ask?

 

[user 64030]

I have been trying to respond all day to the question about pics... It still won't let me quote that post (

Should I just keep posting pics as I go, regardless of whether advice is needed?

with YES - it will help us others that have never resurrected one when we go to searching.

dw

 

[jimdad07]

Not trying to hijack, but if you guys can please check this thread out: http://www.arboristsite.com/off-topic-forum/188558-23.htm#post3392218, this family could use some well wishing.

That is a heck of a deal, I think I need to take the OP bargain shopping with me sometime. Nice find.

 

[stderr]

Flywheel

I guess I've taken the drive side as far as I can without putting the b&c along with the cover on. The ignition side is feeling neglected...

Attaching the flywheel:

The flywheel key sheared the first or second time I started this up, before all of this rebuilding business. I replaced the key and tried again with success, however when I pulled the flywheel off to replace the oil-seal underneath, I noticed the new key is starting to shear as well.

From what I've been reading, the key is strictly an alignment device, and the torqued on nut is supposed to press the flywheel onto the tapered shaft with enough force that friction will keep it aligned, with or without the woodruff key. The key itself is not meant to prevent the flywheel from rotating, only to align it during installation.

I cleaned the crankshaft tip with varsol, then swabbed it down with alcohol, did the same to the mating surface on the flywheel. I straightened the key out with a hammer, and put it back in rotated 180° from the original orientation. This should offer a little more protection.

I'm not sure about torquing on the wheel. It seemed initially like the flywheel nut (or the crankshaft :frown threads were beginning to strip, so I stopped and pulled the nut back off. Both its and the crankshaft's threads look OK. I tried again, same condition. It felt like the threads were yielding. As a last resort, I borrowed a torque wrench, and per the service manual, tried torquing to 25ft-lb. The wrench got up to 20ft-lb, and the nut just kept on rotating. After about 3/4 of a turn, it finally seemed to hit bottom, and I got the torque up to the 25ft-lb mark. Is this normal?

Here's a pic of the flywheel magnet alignment to the ignition module, and it looks like it might not be seated completely. It looks to me like the flywheel should be sucked in a little tighter to the crankcase:

If I had to bet, I would guess the the flywheel nut is much softer steel than the crankshaft, so as to have the nut fail if overtightened instead of the threads on the shaft. I confess I'm a little worried that the thing's going to come off during use.

 

[homelitejim]

I think the reason why the flywheel nut is still turning is because it is pushing the flywheel up the tapered crank, If the manual says 25lbs then go with that.

 

[cutforfun]

right or wrong i usually give the flywheel a few taps with a hammer and an oversize socket to get it pressed on the crank then i put the nut on and tighten it up, you might be feeling the flywheel press on when you think the nut is slipping? if that flywheel has two slots make sure you got it on the right one or it will kick like a mule the first time it fires

 

[stderr]

Coming along

I think the reason why the flywheel nut is still turning is because it is pushing the flywheel up the tapered crank, If the manual says 25lbs then go with that.

right or wrong i usually give the flywheel a few taps with a hammer and an oversize socket to get it pressed on the crank then i put the nut on and tighten it up, you might be feeling the flywheel press on when you think the nut is slipping? if that flywheel has two slots make sure you got it on the right one or it will kick like a mule the first time it fires

Thanks guys. Confidence growing a little. Flywheel has only one slot.

Heat shield in place, though it doesn't fit exactly as I expected. I had to trim off part of the edge toward the drive side:

Muffler in place, little to fuss with here. Dual port muffler with spark arrestors still in it, does modding this make much difference, other than louder?

Flywheel cover on, had to order new screws for this, as the PO had used something with the right thread, but wrong length, and slotted rather than T27.

 

[homelitejim]

I think without porting the dual port muffler will breath real good for a stock saw. Heat shield looks good. Won't be long before a video I think.

 

[Chainsaw4]

if i were you i would have done a good cleaning

 

[homelitejim]

all that black is actually the burnt plastic from too much heat, kind of hard to clean. I have seen it on a few saws around the chainbrake, and is probably that way because of the chain brake getting the clutch hot and burning the plastic.

 

[stderr]

all that black is actually the burnt plastic from too much heat, kind of hard to clean. I have seen it on a few saws around the chainbrake, and is probably that way because of the chain brake getting the clutch hot and burning the plastic.

Lol, yep. Here's the original brake cover after cleaning; burned, cracked & cut up:

I thought I was missing a screw at the outset, even said so earlier. Mustabin a brain-fart. There's only 3-screw holes on the original cover, but there's 4 on the new one, and there're 4 holes on the crankcase. Oh well; ordered an extra screw for it.

 

[homelitejim]

I have never really liked chain brakes, I never use them, heck most of my saws don't even have them, I suspect you will probably never use it ether as you have dealt with its unintended consequences, I do however like a good stout hand guard.

 

[stderr]

Bloody Setbacks

A couple of weeks ago I feebayed a proper flywheel puller, been faking it with a gear puller up to now. Today it showed up, so I thought I'd give it a shot on the nearest saw it would fit. Hey, there's an 066 on my bench with a suspect flywheel nut, and I should make sure the key isn't starting to shear again. So out with the plug, in with the piston stop, I mean rope; off with the starter cover, on with the puller, et voila, off she popped; so much easier, shoulda bought one of these a long time ago. Happiness is good tools.

Flywheel key looked perfect(ish), so I gave everything a quick swab-down and popped it back on. Torqued it up to 25ft-lb, and...and...and...wtf? It won't go past 20. It's probably pushing the flywheel onto the tapered shaft, right? It felt like threads were stripping last time because...threads were stripping :msp_mad:.

The bright side: It's the nut that stripped, shaft looks good; more importantly, better now than when cutting.

Who'd have thought an M8x1 flanged nut would be such a challenge? I called two dealers, both have to order it in, and my favourite one said, "You're the only one who orders stuff like this, everyone else just wants an MS170."

 

[homelitejim]

Well now you know, I have stripped a few threads, at least it was the nut and not the crank as it will be easier to replace. You are right about finding out now instead of in the woods at full rpm where things tend to get damaged.

 

[stderr]

Back to the drive-side

While I wait for a new nut, back to the drive side. Clutch cover... has a broken off corner at the back; is missing the posts for holding the rubber guard on; is missing the rubber guard. I'm so cheap I squeak. I drilled two holes through the cover and tapped in 1" #4-40 stainless screws where the posts should be. I ordered a new rubber guard, and filled the post holes with silicone. I then stuck the guard on the posts, and bolted the clutch cover on to let it dry in place. It seems pretty solid so-far, but I guess time will tell. The guard is pinched pretty tightly in between the brake and clutch covers when attached:

Next is the bar. Yet another feebay purchase was this 32" bar without nose:

I bought a new nose and put that on. Once it was on, i noticed a bit of a step on the guide rails from the bar to the nose, so I ground the nose down a little so the chain won't be able to hook. My handywork here is a little suspect, as I'm not much of an artist with a die grinder:

View from the other side:

The nose is on solid, and if I eyeball down the length of the rails it looks pretty straight. The rivets are peened into place, but are still slightly proud of the bar. I would say they're no further out than the rivets holding the nose sprocket in place. Will the chain wear the bar into shape through normal use?

 

[user 64030]

....Will the chain wear the bar into shape through normal use?

It may wear a little faster ont eh transition since it is a bit of a raise, but it will continue to wear the bar down as well. He chain should lift a bit right at trnsition unless that part is being pressed int ethe wood. I don't think it will be an issue either way. I'd run it.

You could look into a bar dressing file and work on the transition by hand w/ that file. I goy mine from bailey ~$20.

dw

 

[stderr]

A little presumptuous...

Running out of things to fiddle with before I test it. Waiting for nuts & bolts now...should probably scope out something to stick it in too.

Tongue planted firmly in cheek; it may not make it run any better, but I feel so much more manly now that it says "magnum".

Funny place for the sticker, usually it's on the air-cleaner cover, but c'est la vie...

Oh yeah, I can feel the extra power already; wonder if putting one on a wild-thing would work.