So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

[North by Northwest]

My favorite oil are the free bottles of oil the dummies throw in the dump because their old.I use any brand of two stroke oil old or new.I mix one quart of oil to 5 gallons of gas for chain saws snow machines outboard motors and lawn boy mowers. I have never had a motor fail due to oil related problems. I put hundreds of hours on my equipment in a year.
Kash

Kash your engines don't even start up North due to the extreme Cold , let alone oil failure related , its due to Cold seizure !

 

[North by Northwest]

Exactly. Then they wonder why their piston cracked.

They have to start their learning curve somewhere Mr Walker why not here , & a lot cheaper now brother !

 

[North by Northwest]

I plan on running more oil rich to the newer saws.
Husqvarna does say with larger bars to run 32:1 ratio under heavier use.

Yeah Bill , I read that yrs ago in moto x during my 70's dirt racing days larger 500 class bikes heavier ratio than the 125 class screamers , likely load related ! lol.

 

[North by Northwest]

Ok, that guy is completely full of ****. I currently work in oil refining and Benzene, Xylene and Toluene have been strictly limited for years to extremely minute levels. Partly because they attack rubber and plastic parts as he mentioned, but also due to the fact Benzene is a known carcinogen and toluene and xylene have many other emmissions and other issues.
In addition my first job out of school was working with the Delphi division of General Motors on fuel filters for high percentage ethanol blend and Methanol blend fuels for the Brazilian market. I can say for certain that Ethanol when combined with sulfur compounds in fuel and the water they pull out of the air form nasty corrosive products that attack metal parts, rubber, and many plastics. Ethanol blended fuels also form varnish and gums like crazy.
I currently have a small Honda generator with a rotted fuel line from ethanol use. It's a real issue. Not to mentioned the corrosion issues which are worse problems.

Yeah , thank God for the invention of Viton , Buna-N & Nitrile !

 

[North by Northwest]

There are all sorts of factors that can lead to the formation of the deposits observed by OM617Yota.

Repaired a 661 that was ran on TC-W3.

seized rings

That's what happens when you run OMC lawnmower oil in a saw !

 

[North by Northwest]

well, modern two stroke race bikes run amsoil at 100:1 all the time. Granted, those engines are water cooled, but there’s no reason a saw couldn’t run that ratio either. oil has come a long way since the old 20:1 smokers.

but again, to each their own.

Yeah feeling lucky sucker !

 

[North by Northwest]

I think a lot of the ported saw guys are running 40:1 in the 661 and have been since they became available years ago. I remember them saying that 32:1 was too rich oil wise for them after reading about them. For a few threads years ago.

44:1 is optimium for anything ported or commercially run !

 

[sb47]

I run Stihl saws so I run Stihl oil and OEM parts. It just seems logical to stick with all OEM branded products that are made and designed for there saws. Never had an oil related issue what so ever in over 20 years.

 

[North by Northwest]

Nothing smells as good as the castor oil for older two strokes. The 927 maxima is a castor synthetic blend.

Klotz-Benol & Klotz-R , nothing like Napalm in the morning to make you feel alive & 20 hr tear downs !

 

[North by Northwest]

I run 38:1 mix, I think 50:1 is too oil lean.

50:1 is adequate with certain oils & engine applications with proper tuning !

 

[North by Northwest]

I'm thinking Motul 800 Synth

Motul has some fine Synthetic for certain racing high temp applications !

 

[LoneOak]

You can see the light ends boiling off at room temperature, yet the whole sample doesn't boil off at room temperature like an olefin would. Given enough time gasoline under the right conditions and gasoline will most certainly seperate into various components based on density. IE gasoline is heterogeneous.
Regardless, this matter not to what we are discussing.

"Given enough time" That's funny!! Given enough time it will completely evaporate BEFORE it separates!!

 

[LoneOak]

Willingness and ability are two different things.

So you lack the ability to learn?

 

[North by Northwest]

So , to answer the ops original question , any full synthetic ester based oil is my preference . Ester based syn oils have more solvency (cleaning ability) & tend to have better cling / shear presence due to their polarity potential. I appreciate both in my racing applications where a catastrophic oil pump failure or sudden oil lean condition will give a run on period & reduced performance indication prior any full on seizure . There are numerous FD rated oils to choose from , that will perform admirably . Actually numerous FC rated will do the same with an experienced operator & sound tuning practices ! Nothing like a oil thread to get the blood pumping . Cheers

 

[bwalker]

"Given enough time" That's funny!! Given enough time it will completely evaporate BEFORE it separates!!

That depends and more things you don't know...

 

[Goinwheelin]

Ok so homogenized milk isn’t homogeneous? I’ve been lied to…

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

I'm a big fan of Amsoil Saber. I've abused the crap out of weedwhackers and saws that should've melted down, but not even a scuff with this stuff. And the lack of carbon buildup in the exhaust port and on top of the piston was downright amazing to me. Added bonus, the stuff has a fuel stabilizer in it. I mix it at 100:1 in everything but my paramotor.

The way I see it, OE's aren't in the business of making equipment last forever - they're in the business of selling you as much equipment as you will buy, so might as well run the BEST oil you can buy.

Lots of people run cheap or OE oil, then never warm the machine up prior to going full bore. I wish I had pics of a good "4-corner" seizure. Just got some regular scuffs, and one that was run right out of oil, lol - a Honda 300 4-stroke ATV. What a mess! You can tell which one that is ...


Almost forgot the new 4-stroke tiny engines in rototillers and such nowadays - more failure prone than anything I've ever seen before:

 

[farfromiowa]

I run Stihl saws so I run Stihl oil and OEM parts. It just seems logical to stick with all OEM branded products that are made and designed for there saws. Never had an oil related issue what so ever in over 20 years.

Me too, I have always ran Stihl HP Ultra. Never had an issue. MS310/440 and Echo CS355T. My 310 is going on 20 years old and has a lot of hours on it and still runs perfect. Someone on here many pages back said they would never run Stihl oil, but didn't say why.

 

[Goinwheelin]

I like to pour a little 30 W Delo 400 in the mix just for gramps.

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

The stuff works, and if your stuff is in good tune, and you don't abuse the crap out of it running it until the rings float or never blowing all the crap out of the fan or fins, and you don't mind decarbonizing the engine every now and then, it's fine. As a mechanic, my preference is to do little to no work on my own stuff so I can make money, so I run good oil and never maintain them, lol.