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Oh wait!!
No pics!!!
No pics!!!
Something aint adding up here...
- Thread starter T-Dozzer
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Just have what the "OP" said........
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
Im going to pick it from the shop in a day or 2. Decided it wasnt worrh the $$ in labor for a stihl mechanic. Im still trying to get more back story on the saw. Sounds like it maybe had top end work before so something is going on. Probably needs a vac test? Guess Im getting a project saw...
Ill be sure to get ya pics Harley T.
Im sure Ill have questions and maybe a few curse words once I start.
Thanks
Ill be sure to get ya pics Harley T.
Im sure Ill have questions and maybe a few curse words once I start.
Thanks
Read it again. Think context. He was responding to the post above.
I doubt the tech can tell if the cylinder is ruined just by looking through the exhaust... most saws that need “a new top end” usually need new piston rings, fuel system work or crank seals, and some cleanup on the cylinder. Of course, some saws really do need new cylinders...
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Yeah, usually the cylinder can be saved, but my point is, that futzing around with the fuel system is pretty much wasted time/money, if you have visible piston damage.
I’d try to see how much the parts were to rebuild the top end and do it myself if it were me , two stroke engines aren’t very complicated at all. I’d buy a new piston and associated parts like gaskets and ect. , new fuel lines , fuel filter , air filter and spark plug and be set and have a good saw that you know will run and be trouble free. You’ll learn and save money in the process. The cylinder can more than likely be honed and touched up. Oh and get a rebuild kit for the carb.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does this come under the 9,999 good jobs & no one says a word drop one "clanger" & the owner has the biggest mouth & the most relations
This gives you a good excuse to work on it yourself.
Very first thing I do is take the muffler off look at the piston, then if piston not chewed up badly leave the muffler off and give it a prime of gas on top of piston and it should give you a promise to start if it has fire, may take several cranks of wide open or very fast throttle. If no go look at the spark plug for fire.
If she fires and runs for little bit then instead of immediately going to the gas system and wasting more time, do a compression, Vacuum and pressure test. Throwing time into the fuel system and the rig not holding a vacuum is still whipping on a dead horse trying to tune a good carb.
Give it a squirt of MIXED gas into the carb throat and it should give you a promise to start.
Reason I look at piston area FIRST: I've seen saws with good compression and the saw look clean but the piston chewed up, I know then the saw is not worth wasting time and money just to see it run, especially for someone else other than myself. Time to look into price of parts to save the rig doing the work yourself, because you are deciding if you want to marry the ole gal.
Very first thing I do is take the muffler off look at the piston, then if piston not chewed up badly leave the muffler off and give it a prime of gas on top of piston and it should give you a promise to start if it has fire, may take several cranks of wide open or very fast throttle. If no go look at the spark plug for fire.
If she fires and runs for little bit then instead of immediately going to the gas system and wasting more time, do a compression, Vacuum and pressure test. Throwing time into the fuel system and the rig not holding a vacuum is still whipping on a dead horse trying to tune a good carb.
Give it a squirt of MIXED gas into the carb throat and it should give you a promise to start.
Reason I look at piston area FIRST: I've seen saws with good compression and the saw look clean but the piston chewed up, I know then the saw is not worth wasting time and money just to see it run, especially for someone else other than myself. Time to look into price of parts to save the rig doing the work yourself, because you are deciding if you want to marry the ole gal.
I’d just check my fuel lines. Then carb. If piston isn’t fugged.
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
Howdy, finally got around to pulling it apart. Bottom ring was stuck & damaging cylinder. You were right. Ill post a new thread with alot of pics. Still trying to decide if its worth rebuilding or....
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Wow, looks rough!!
How did you get Batman to work on your saw?
Rick Stephens
ArboristSite Operative
Run without oil in the mix. Doesn't take long for a piston to turn to crap.
More like a lean seize, still a worthy project. That was spotted before by the Stihl tech, I hope he vac checked before pulling that jug.
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
Haha.. i hope not. I take pretty good care of it.
This 066, I knew was gana be rough, knowing who I got it from. I was surprised to see it was that bad. Im not into it much $$ wise so I can still abandon it. Hope was to use it for milling.
With some luck and elbow grease, you could have a solid saw. Meteor piston$40, might be able to save the cylinder, new seals, fuel line, impulse line, carb kit and carb boot, you’d still be in it for maybe $100, and priceless experience.
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
With some luck and elbow grease, you could have a solid saw. Meteor piston$40, might be able to save the cylinder, new seals, fuel line, impulse line, carb kit and carb boot, you’d still be in it for maybe $100, and priceless experience.
Maybe I better post the rest of the pics before you seasoned guys say its worth it.
Before my friend abused it, his friend milled with it and abused it. Sounds like this isn't the first top end & may have been bored.
It's make soup out a that
es ist scheiße
