Spark Plugs

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Back to the thread topic here, I use (and swear by) NGK plugs in all my 2-stroke engine devices. Chainsaws, blowers and weedeaters. Great thing about Stihs are that they (all the ones I have) take the same plug. I change them out every year duing fire season (summer down time for chain sawing).
 
The Huskies and Jreds can run that same exact plug as the Stihls......one stop bulk buying

I am liking the Nippon Densos right now but they are a bit pricey compared to some others
 
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Interesting...the NGK site lists the same plug for the 028 and the 066, but says gap the 028 plug at .020", and the 066 plug at .030".

I run the all plugs in all my STIHLS WSR6f Bosch. Picked up a BIG lot years ago and they all run fine from 020 to 066.........

P.S. gap for a 066 at 0.030 seems a bit large, 0.020 for a 028 a little small, I've always been taught 0.025.

Any body else? Hotsaw people? I neglect my saw people? Anybodys.....???
 
WSR6F for me.. and all I use is used plugs from customer saws (we change then at every service)...

Save me some real Made in Germany ones....with the brass terminal

Can't get them anymore.....and they last for years

I have never been a yearly plug changer
 
I run the all plugs in all my STIHLS WSR6f Bosch. Picked up a BIG lot years ago and they all run fine from 020 to 066.........

P.S. gap for a 066 at 0.030 seems a bit large, 0.020 for a 028 a little small, I've always been taught 0.025.

Any body else? Hotsaw people? I neglect my saw people? Anybodys.....???

All stihl saws are 0.5mm, or close to 20 thou..... and have been for a very long time. The WSR6F is pregapped at 0.5mm...
 
Save me some real Made in Germany ones....with the brass terminal

Can't get them anymore.....and they last for years

I have never been a yearly plug changer

I'm not sure I've ever "changed" a plug in a personal saw.. I keep a few spares for my 066 when milling really rich, but...

I'll start putting the German 6f plugs in different bucket.. ;)
 
i was hoping a topic like this would come up. For outdoor power equipment i prefer NGK single electrode spark plugs. There is a reason though. The reason is that i read most companies that make coils and electronic parts use NGK plugs for testing purposes. This truly says alot though . They cost about 50 cents more than autolites on average. I run them in all my power equipment. They came factory in my honda lawnmower and echo trimmer. Autolites are another cheap good plug. I even tried NGK and Autolites in my yz 125 for the hell of it. I got better performance out of the NGK. It just seemed to run a bit better than the autolite.I got similar performance though. The thing was the autolite seemed less prone to fouling. The regular bosch plugs are good but i feel they are a tad bit expensive especially 2.99 a piece at lowes. Anyways all spark plugs with over 2 ground electrodes are marketing schemes anyway. They are a waste of money. theres no way spark is going to travel through all 4 electrodes anyway. 2 at the most. Bosch, Autolite, and NGK are all good quality though, they all hold a gap for me also. As for champion plugs. there qualilty has improved alittle bit over the last couple years. The problem with there plugs is that they can't hold onto a electrode, how are the plugs going to hold a gap.
 
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Anyways all spark plugs with over 2 ground electrodes are marketing schemes anyway. They are a waste of money. theres no way spark is going to travel through all 4 electrodes anyway. 2 at the most. Bosch, Autolite, and NGK are all good quality though, they all hold a gap for me also. As for champion plugs. there qualilty has improved a little bit over the last couple years. The problem with there plugs is that they can't hold onto a electrode, how are the plugs going to hold a gap.


What we were taught in tech school in regards to plugs / ignitors with 2 or more electrodes is: It is not a performanance thing as electricity is going to take the path of least resistence, and its not likely due to properties of electricity that it will follow over more than one in all reality and provide an equally hot spark in each electrode than is obtainable in just one electrode. The concept behind the multiple electrodes is for safety of flight more so in aviation or in abililty to still run in say a race car than it is in terms of performance. If a plug failed due to electrode failure in an aircraft that could be devastating..so they build in redundant features (additional electrodes etc) Having a single electrode plug fail on a chain saw at most would be a few choice cuss words and 5 minutes downtime.

I have always read and been told resistor plugs are not needed, and they are usually used mainly for radio interference from the ignition systems. Just like they used to go with carbon fiber plug wires with built in resitors in automotive engines, so you did not get that ignition noise on the radio or on your neighbors TV set etc etc.
 
Do this simple test

Take a coil form a points ignition and measure the static DC resistance between the plug wire and the common ground point of the coil core......then do the same with a current electronic module coil and tell me what you get
 
Off thread, but with the older /5 /6/7 style beemer motorcycle boxers they were designed with better gas than has been available for a long time. Serious pinging problems, especially in parts of the world.

Lot of us (including me) installed a second sparkplug in each head so we could retard the timing and still have the same performance (because of the crappy gas).

Worked very well and troublefree. I personally did it to a R100/7 which I ran for many years and miles and is still currently being run by a friend. It required replacing the ignition with a dual plug coil (Dyna III is what I ran), but that was fine because it was nice to do away with points anyway. I installed my Dyna III, timed it (much retarded in relation to stock, can't remember how much) and never had to touch it again ever.
 
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Also off topic.. but that reminds me of another dual plug story.. one that might have ended differently in 1988... I've been working in Chicago and I'm heading home in Montana for week R&R. The Japanese company I worked for didn't care how I got there so long as it didn't cost more than the airlines (luckily, it cost a fortune then), so I rented a plane. I had an IFR ticket..

It's 6.30 in the morning, late fall, raining, 700 foot (maybe) dark ceiling (yep - SUCKS) and I'm taking off from 06C (tiny airport near O'Hare, Il). It's one of those airports where they had to lock an entire O'Hare sector so I can get high enough for radio contact. Check the aircraft, warm it up, and shut down. Phone from the ground (pre-cell phones..); "you got 4 minutes" - race to the plane, quick run-up using the toe-brakes on the taxiway (not approved...), enter the very short runway.. quick cross check and away...

1000 feet gone and something doesn't feel right.. 1500 and I'm off.. not right.. but too late now. Pouring rain, 500 feet vis at best, no horizon and I'm really having trouble with a rough engine. Must be icing .. level off - carb heat - nope - even less power.. 400 feet not climbing well at all , intermittent radio contact - transmit blind... circle back to 06C... The controllers should have my transponder by now... I'm sure they are not happy...


Heart pounding time. I was having trouble keeping the airport in view (no time to set up for an instrument approach); race though landing check list ..

Fuel both; mixture rich, mags both - HUH???

I'd taken off with only a single mag... only one plug (per cyinder) firing... that Lycoming 0-360 sucked on one mag.. I'd sure hate to loose one on take off on a hot day in Montana.

:bang: :bang: :bang:

Flipped the mag switch to both, roarrrrrrrrrr...... climbing (damn that felt good).... back on vector, radio contact... yes, they'd been calling, other aircraft had replayed my Pan ("Mayday' without paperwork..).. "Did I want to declare an emergency"? "Negative" "N3017Z, climb and maintain 4,500 feet, cleared direct to (I forget the VOR), contact O'Hare departure 116.4... have a good day". Like it never happened...


Oh yes,, I learned from that.. and a few others... and yes, Single pilot IFR sucks... looking back - it falls into that really big category "just because you can doesn't mean you should".
 
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I guess the perosnal choice is as varied as the brands of saws out there.

Years ago we sold lawn equipment and snowmobiles. Back then all engines on sleds were european made and all came with BOsch plugs..........Soon we discovered Nipondenso and then NGK.......Started to use NGK in everything, but we were told that in general use BOsch in the European made machines and equipment and NGK in Jap made items........for no particular reason. ANymore I always try and find NGK for whatever it is I am in need of a spark plug for and to be honest I htink the NGK running ina Stihl or Husky or even a B & S powered log splitter or lawn mower works and lasts better than a BOsch or champion does. I lost a lot of faith in champions and their so called gold palladium over priced plugs that were always loosing the center electrodes........Bosch have never seemed to last as long as NGK either......So whats everyones preference.....surely we do not all use a "____" plug just because "_________" says so, if there is a comparable "other" brand to use.......I even run NGK in my GMC 350. Used to run em in my F250 Ford as well. I pretty well run NGK's in every internal combustion engine I have if they make a plug for it.


NGK in a CHEVY!!!!! You should be impaled on a stake, two times!!! AC when they were still MADE IN AMERICA (I've a bunch for my trucks/cars/tractors).

Geman saws deserve german plugs BOSCH!!!! I've a case of WSR6 (number?) that will last out their/my lives......
 
NGK in a CHEVY!!!!! You should be impaled on a stake, two times!!! AC when they were still MADE IN AMERICA (I've a bunch for my trucks/cars/tractors).

Geman saws deserve german plugs BOSCH!!!! I've a case of WSR6 (number?) that will last out their/my lives......

None of the bosch plugs I've bought for a while where made in Germany. Where do you find german made plugs, other than in the saw?
 
Also off topic.. but that reminds me of another dual plug story.. one that might have ended differently in 1988... I've been working in Chicago and I'm heading home in Montana for week R&R. The Japanese company I worked for didn't care how I got there so long as it didn't cost more than the airlines (luckily, it cost a fortune then), so I rented a plane. I had an IFR ticket..

It's 6.30 in the morning, late fall, raining, 700 foot (maybe) dark ceiling (yep - SUCKS) and I'm taking off from 06C (tiny airport near O'Hare, Il). It's one of those airports where they had to lock an entire O'Hare sector so I can get high enough for radio contact. Check the aircraft, warm it up, and shut down. Phone from the ground (pre-cell phones..); "you got 4 minutes" - race to the plane, quick run-up using the toe-brakes on the taxiway (not approved...), enter the very short runway.. quick cross check and away...

1000 feet gone and something doesn't feel right.. 1500 and I'm off.. not right.. but too late now. Pouring rain, 500 feet vis at best, no horizon and I'm really having trouble with a rough engine. Must be icing .. level off - carb heat - nope - even less power.. 400 feet not climbing well at all , intermittent radio contact - transmit blind... circle back to 06C... The controllers should have my transponder by now... I'm sure they are not happy...


Heart pounding time. I was having trouble keeping the airport in view (no time to set up for an instrument approach); race though landing check list ..

Fuel both; mixture rich, mags both - HUH???

I'd taken off with only a single mag... only one plug (per cyinder) firing... that Lycoming 0-360 sucked on one mag.. I'd sure hate to loose one on take off on a hot day in Montana.

:bang: :bang: :bang:

Flipped the mag switch to both, roarrrrrrrrrr...... climbing (damn that felt good).... back on vector, radio contact... yes, they'd been calling, other aircraft had replayed my Pan ("Mayday' without paperwork..).. "Did I want to declare an emergency"? "Negative" "N3017Z, climb and maintain 4,500 feet, cleared direct to (I forget the VOR), contact O'Hare departure 116.4... have a good day". Like it never happened...


Oh yes,, I learned from that.. and a few others... and yes, Single pilot IFR sucks... looking back - it falls into that really big category "just because you can doesn't mean you should".

At least with bikes we only have to crash in two dimensions.:)
 
What we were taught in tech school in regards to plugs / ignitors with 2 or more electrodes is: It is not a performanance thing as electricity is going to take the path of least resistence, and its not likely due to properties of electricity that it will follow over more than one in all reality and provide an equally hot spark in each electrode than is obtainable in just one electrode. The concept behind the multiple electrodes is for safety of flight more so in aviation or in abililty to still run in say a race car than it is in terms of performance. If a plug failed due to electrode failure in an aircraft that could be devastating..so they build in redundant features (additional electrodes etc) Having a single electrode plug fail on a chain saw at most would be a few choice cuss words and 5 minutes downtime.

I have always read and been told resistor plugs are not needed, and they are usually used mainly for radio interference from the ignition systems. Just like they used to go with carbon fiber plug wires with built in resitors in automotive engines, so you did not get that ignition noise on the radio or on your neighbors TV set etc etc.

The problem is if a four electrode plug fouls your basically :censored: regardless because if it would cold foul or carbon foul. Don't you think all the electrodes would be done. So in reality all the roads of resistance wouldn't matter if the whole plug fouled out. There pointless. they just give people a false sense of security
 

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