HemiMoparGuy
ArboristSite Operative
Hey Guys,
This may seem like a stupid question, but it was getting dark when I was trying this. The saw has never been run in the cold like it is now, and last time it was run was a very hot day, so the carb obviously needs adjustment. It was running ok, not perfect, but I was only cutting smaller dead trees and cutting in managable pieces, not firewood, so I didn't bother to tune since it was close to dark, I just wanted to get as much cut as I could before dark. However, it got to the point it wouldn't stay running at idle, and eventually wouldn't run at all. It'd fire when trying to start, but just wouldn't take off, even when squeezing the trigger and pulling.
Now the part about the stupid question...I pulled the cover off to get a better view, but it was close to dark and I only had my phone as a flashlight, which wasn't the best for a focal need, but it appears that it takes a special screwdriver, not one of the many little orange handled flathead ones I have sitting around...it almost sppeared like a torx socket...not bit, socket, as in the screw head is male and need a female socket to adjust. The saw, I always thought it was a Husky 450e cuz I'm pretty sure the box said that, but on the saw itself is just says 450, not sure if that matters or not. I looked in the manual and it describes adjusting procedure but doesn't mention any special tool...so I dunno, maybe a sham as it says only a trained tech should adjust, and being a homeowner saw, is this a way of forcing to take it in? Or is there a cap of some sort that may come off, that I just couldn't see in the near dark? Problem is, saw is at my dad's house, don't wanna drive all the way there to analyze it more to find out I need something else. So I'd like to be more knowledgeable about the situation before I go to mess with it.
Lastly, though I can figure it out by tweaking hear and there until it sounds right, I'm not real experienced at tuning saws as I never really needed to (or atleast felt I needed to, they always ran good enough to get the job done) from what I described, can it be told exactly what I should adjust?
Thanks Guys,
Eric
This may seem like a stupid question, but it was getting dark when I was trying this. The saw has never been run in the cold like it is now, and last time it was run was a very hot day, so the carb obviously needs adjustment. It was running ok, not perfect, but I was only cutting smaller dead trees and cutting in managable pieces, not firewood, so I didn't bother to tune since it was close to dark, I just wanted to get as much cut as I could before dark. However, it got to the point it wouldn't stay running at idle, and eventually wouldn't run at all. It'd fire when trying to start, but just wouldn't take off, even when squeezing the trigger and pulling.
Now the part about the stupid question...I pulled the cover off to get a better view, but it was close to dark and I only had my phone as a flashlight, which wasn't the best for a focal need, but it appears that it takes a special screwdriver, not one of the many little orange handled flathead ones I have sitting around...it almost sppeared like a torx socket...not bit, socket, as in the screw head is male and need a female socket to adjust. The saw, I always thought it was a Husky 450e cuz I'm pretty sure the box said that, but on the saw itself is just says 450, not sure if that matters or not. I looked in the manual and it describes adjusting procedure but doesn't mention any special tool...so I dunno, maybe a sham as it says only a trained tech should adjust, and being a homeowner saw, is this a way of forcing to take it in? Or is there a cap of some sort that may come off, that I just couldn't see in the near dark? Problem is, saw is at my dad's house, don't wanna drive all the way there to analyze it more to find out I need something else. So I'd like to be more knowledgeable about the situation before I go to mess with it.
Lastly, though I can figure it out by tweaking hear and there until it sounds right, I'm not real experienced at tuning saws as I never really needed to (or atleast felt I needed to, they always ran good enough to get the job done) from what I described, can it be told exactly what I should adjust?
Thanks Guys,
Eric