Splitter build. Done.

[palmrose2]

I'm going to say that the word "rated" was a poor choice on my part.

When perusing the link and contrasting the Murex 6011C to the Murex 7014 I would have to say that it would be tough to say that the 7014 was harder. I also notice that Forney says that their 7014 has a tensile strength of 83,000 psi while the same company says that their 6011 has a tensile strength of 88,000 psi. Hmmm?

I'll just toss out the fact that I've welded about 17 miles of 4" schedule 40 pipe of an average length per stick of 11'. I've done less 6, 8, and 10", but... I've done a little fabbing too. I'm not exactly a puppy, and this ain't my first rodeo.

 

[palmrose2]

On a side note, simply smacking the former kickstand flat and drilling holes in it to match the original valve handle, turned out to be unsatisfactory. I drilled the holes a smidge bigger and covered the end with thin layer of brazing rod. Re drilling the holes and some work with a mill bastard resulted in nice, tightish, steel on bronze wear points.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Do be careful and wear safety glasses. The reason I say this is I think there is a pretty good chance your fitting is going to break where it comes out of the cylinder to the valve. Vibration and the constant moving of the valve will give you a stress cracks at the thread and it will eventually give you a quick bath of fluid. Most likely break will have the fluid going toward the arm on the valve and you face will be behind that.

 

[nathon918]

I'm going to say that the word "rated" was a poor choice on my part.

When perusing the link and contrasting the Murex 6011C to the Murex 7014 I would have to say that it would be tough to say that the 7014 was harder. I also notice that Forney says that their 7014 has a tensile strength of 83,000 psi while the same company says that their 6011 has a tensile strength of 88,000 psi. Hmmm?

I'll just toss out the fact that I've welded about 17 miles of 4" schedule 40 pipe of an average length per stick of 11'. I've done less 6, 8, and 10", but... I've done a little fabbing too. I'm not exactly a puppy, and this ain't my first rodeo.

they were able to achieve a test result of 88k with the 6011 because its a high penetration rod, compared to the low penetration all purpose 7014... more penetration= more unified/solid structure
BTW those high tensile strengths were achieved with the "best" welds, not every weld... and from what I see I wouldn't call your welds "best" by any means even though you have welded miles of pipe.
id love to see you tell an inspector that there's no need to cap with 7018, just weld it full out with 6010 because its 72K+ tensile strength
and ill just toss out that I'm a 3rd generation welder, been around it all my life

 

[firebrick43]

I am sort of curious now after thinking about how the manufactures test tensil strengh.

When I took some certification test they either grind, cut into 1" strip and then bend the weld area in a special press looking for porosity and cracks.

I know they have special test rigs to pull coupons for tensile strengh but if a rod (such as 6011) is ment for mild steel how do they keep the original steel from elongating before the weld?

 

[nathon918]

I am sort of curious now after thinking about how the manufactures test tensil strengh.

When I took some certification test they either grind, cut into 1" strip and then bend the weld area in a special press looking for porosity and cracks.

I know they have special test rigs to pull coupons for tensile strengh but if a rod (such as 6011) is ment for mild steel how do they keep the original steel from elongating before the weld?

its not stick but its the same procedure...

 

[firebrick43]

Should have know better and googled before asking. Thanks!

 

[palmrose2]

they were able to achieve a test result of 88k with the 6011 because its a high penetration rod, compared to the low penetration all purpose 7014... more penetration= more unified/solid structure
BTW those high tensile strengths were achieved with the "best" welds, not every weld... and from what I see I wouldn't call your welds "best" by any means even though you have welded miles of pipe.
id love to see you tell an inspector that there's no need to cap with 7018, just weld it full out with 6010 because its 72K+ tensile strength
and ill just toss out that I'm a 3rd generation welder, been around it all my life

Well, you've graciously added a video that says that they test ONLY the weld materiel itself, so I guess the "more penetration= more unified/solid structure" is out the window.

There isn't a slag inclusion in the whole works, regardless of the purtiness of the welds. Now, if you want to talk about possible hydrogen embrittlement for not using 7018 as it pertains to the soundness of the machine, we can talk. However, I specifically was talking about the hardness of the leading edge of the wedge. Brittleness is not an issue.

Concerning it's gorgeous welds, this beauty was made in about 20 hrs with materials on hand. 7018 wasn't on hand, and I didn't want to take the time to impress you. A freaking robot can make a purty weld.

I come from a family of engineers, not welders. Most engineers will take the labs word for it.

 

[WoodTick007]

Nice machine. Looks like a very useful design. As for your welds or welding rod. . . I am sure if you achieved good penatration those welds will last a very very long time . If one fails, so what.... Drag out the grinder, and the cutting torch and the welder and a couple cold ones and reweld it it's all pretty simple.
Excellent job brother!

 

[chads]

I would have to agree thet the fitting under the valve is a easy one to break off . A piece of wood is bound to hit it once in a while.
I think I would put a hose on it or some sort of brace on the valve.

Looks like it will work well.
Chad

 

[amberg]

Nice splitter, I wish I had one like it.

 

[VW Splitter]

I love the home built splitters, so many different designes and ideas. When I built my splitter, I didn't know much about welding rods, and still don't. I found one that was easy to weld with called Blue Demond. It would never stick, always laid a nice puddel, and was supposed to be a high tensiel strength. 27 years later the wedge is still on the beam. I'm just lucky I guess.