Splitter loosing power????

[RiverRocket]

My splitter has lost all its power for some reason? I Changed the fluid and filter..didn't help.
I tried adjusting the fluid pressure at the valve..still no good i can actually adjust the pressure at the valve so that it bogs the engine down, but it isn't producing enough pressure to split.
I guess i'm asking do you think the pump is toast or could it be the valve? Maybe the low pressure side of the pump?
Any ideas before i just start swapping parts? Thanks in advance for any ideas where to start?

 

[Fred Wright]

Adjusting the relief valve pressure up bogs the engine down. That tells you the pump is working OK. More than likely you have flow bypass somewhere - in the control (manual) valve or the cylinder.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

My splitter has lost all its power for some reason? I Changed the fluid and filter..didn't help.
I tried adjusting the fluid pressure at the valve..still no good i can actually adjust the pressure at the valve so that it bogs the engine down, but it isn't producing enough pressure to split.
I guess i'm asking do you think the pump is toast or could it be the valve? Maybe the low pressure side of the pump?
Any ideas before i just start swapping parts? Thanks in advance for any ideas where to start?

Do you have a pressure gauge on it? I'm assuming not and if that is the case I'd HIGHLY suggest making a diagnostic T with one to narrow your problem down. Single or dual stage pump? Can be anything from a stuck bypass to blow by on cylinder. That it pulls the motor down throws a curve in there.

 

[RiverRocket]

Thanks for the replies..I was thinking the pump was alright because when i adjusted the relief valve and tried to split a piece of wood it would bog the engine.
The pump Just doesn't seam to be switching to high pressure and powering through.. i think i'll buy a gauge and see what kind of pressure i have and start from there. It's a home made splitter with an 8/hp engine and 16/gpm pump what kind of pressure should that set up produce?

 

[milkman]

I'll be interested in what you find, mine did that each time I used it after running a few minutes, wouldn't sift into high pressure. I change the filter and haven't had the problem since and I'm working with some really tough stringy Elm and it powers through so far.

 

[RiverRocket]

I'll be interested in what you find, mine did that each time I used it after running a few minutes, wouldn't sift into high pressure. I change the filter and haven't had the problem since and I'm working with some really tough stringy Elm and it powers through so far.

This splitter always had plenty of power, there isn't to much that will stop it....When it's working properly
I was working it pretty hard last weekend and toward the end of the day it started loosing power. The fluid was pretty hot so i thought that might have been why it was loosing power so i shut it down and didn't try it again until today and same thing no power.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Thanks for the replies..I was thinking the pump was alright because when i adjusted the relief valve and tried to split a piece of wood it would bog the engine.
The pump Just doesn't seam to be switching to high pressure and powering through.. i think i'll buy a gauge and see what kind of pressure i have and start from there. It's a home made splitter with an 8/hp engine and 16/gpm pump what kind of pressure should that set up produce?

Most valves are rated for 3000 PSI. You may want to look at the specs there. I generally go for 2800 - 3000 PSI. I was told by the guy I get parts from the the first stage should switch at 500PSI.

You can get 2 guages on Ebay shipped to your door for $20.00. They are still on there and worked great for me. Fittings ran me around $30.00. It takes the guess work out of it.

 

[triptester]

A 2-stage pump has 2 sections one is high flow and the other is low flow. The low flow section sends fluid to the system all the time. The high flow section only sends fluid to the system until the the the pumps internal bypass setting is reach usually 600-900 psi.If the low flow section is damaged the pump will usually produce little or no pressure. Internal cylinder seal leakage would be the most likely culprit.

 

[RiverRocket]

I put a gauge on it yesterday and could only get 500 psi
It's not switching to high pressure for some reason?

 

[Wood Doctor]

More Suggestions...

I put a gauge on it yesterday and could only get 500 psi
It's not switching to high pressure for some reason?

Sounds like a failed pump. A good source for replacements is Burden Surplus Center. One of my buddies used to tear his control mechanism down and fool around with it until it worked again, but a 2-stage pump is a different can of worms. I'd replace it before trying to repair it.

Perhaps you could also drain the hydraulic fluid out and check the hoses and connections. There might be a major blockage somewhere in the lines, couplings, or even a blob or several blobs of junk in the tank. That's rare, but anything is possible. My friend's splitter was vandalized by pranksters this way.

 

[wndwlkr]

Possibly the pressure adjustment on the pump is gummed up. right next to the pump inlet should be a cap nut , take that off & you should see an adjustment, probably an allen screw, cw to turn pressure up & ccw to turn down. take it out to clean it. should be a spring & ball in there, may need a slim magnet to get it out. count the turns to remove it , put it back the same & that should get you in the ball park, then you can adjust it with your gauge . hope this helps.

 

[sarge3604]

my splitter had little power and it ended up the engine wasn't making enough power we replaced the carb and it will split anything now.

 

[triptester]

Before replacing the pump check the cylinder for leakage. There are two ways to check the cylinder seals. First extend the cylinder far enough to place a jack between the wedge and push plate. With control valve in nuetral and engine off apply force with the jack, the cylinder should hold position. If the cylinder can be forced to retract the seals are probably worn. Another method would be to extend the cylinder all the way. Turn off engine and remove hose from rod end of cylinder at the control valve and place in a bucket, plug or cover valve openning. Start engine and move valve lever to extend position only, if fluid comes out of the cylinder front openning the seals are bad.

 

[vinced]

I say check your cylinder. My splitter would run the cylinder out and in but didn't have enough power to split a piece of wood. Ended up being the seals in the cylinder and it only costed $10.00 for new seals at a local Hydraulic repair shop (I did the work myself).

 

[Wood Doctor]

Very Good Point

I say check your cylinder. My splitter would run the cylinder out and in but didn't have enough power to split a piece of wood. Ended up being the seals in the cylinder and it only costed $10.00 for new seals at a local Hydraulic repair shop (I did the work myself).

Good idea, Vince. I forgot about the cylinder seals. I imagine these can leak to the extent that the second stage of the pump cannot kick in because the sensor cannot detect the added resistance of a tough log.

 

[RiverRocket]

Thanks for all the help...I took the cylinder off tonight, I'm gonna repack it first and go from there
The cylinder is off of an old Cat track loader,so i thought it wouldn't hurt to put new seals in it anyway..
I'll take the cap off of the pump and screw the pressure adjustment out and clean it while i'm at it.
Thanks again for all the help...i'll keep ya posted as to what i find.

 

[RiverRocket]

I just got the cylinder back together and the splitter works like new.
The cylinder sat around unused for a few years and there must have been a little moisture in it because there was some rust on the boar
I honed the boar and repacked it and it works great
Thanks again for the help

 

[Wood Doctor]

Be on the Lookout

I just got the cylinder back together and the splitter works like new. The cylinder sat around unused for a few years and there must have been a little moisture in it because there was some rust on the boar. I honed the boar and repacked it and it works great. Thanks again for the help

Terrific! I talked this over with a few others and they still find it hard to believe that you would not have seen hydraulic fluid leaking in several key locations, especially where the hoses connect to the cylinder, the pump, the controller, etc. Keep your eyes peeled for leaks elsewhere if your splitter loses power again. Meanwhile, enjoy the force!

 

[RiverRocket]

Terrific! I talked this over with a few others and they still find it hard to believe that you would not have seen hydraulic fluid leaking in several key locations, especially where the hoses connect to the cylinder, the pump, the controller, etc. Keep your eyes peeled for leaks elsewhere if your splitter loses power again. Meanwhile, enjoy the force!

The outer seals where OK, It was the seals on the ram that where shot letting pressure blow from the back of the cylinder to the front...The front seal was starting to leak a little
The reason it was bogging the engine down was because when the splitter started loosing power i adjusted the pressure at the valve and had it turned out too far
After I put the rebuilt cylinder on i had to adjust the pressure (Allen screw) back in
I used a nasty twisted up piece of elm to adjust the pressure to 3000/lb
It's nice having the gauge on it now,,,90% of the time the pressure does't go above 600/lb