I have an 8hp Tec. on my splitter with a 4" X 30" cyl. and probably a 11gpm pump. The guy I got it from has 0-10,000 psi gauges on it(pressure and system) The pressure gauge that reads the pressure exerted on the log while splitting is acting up. I've never really seen it go over a couple thousand pounds. What would be the max pressure this motor/pump would put out? Thanks, Bill
Splitter pressure
- Thread starter yooperman
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DWittenbreder
ArboristSite Member
hydraulic pressure
Pressure relief on your control valve is set (usually) around 3000 psi. thats why your gaube dosen't register much. Rule of thumb 1. bigger cylinder=more power 2. bigger pump=faster cylinder. with your 8hp. you could go up to a 16 gpm. What rpm is your tech. spinning @?
Pressure relief on your control valve is set (usually) around 3000 psi. thats why your gaube dosen't register much. Rule of thumb 1. bigger cylinder=more power 2. bigger pump=faster cylinder. with your 8hp. you could go up to a 16 gpm. What rpm is your tech. spinning @?
This Barnes 11 gpm pump is rated to 3000lb. My pressure gauge is a liquid filled 0-3000lb range.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007041520501376&item=9-1388&catname=hydraulic
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007041520501376&item=9-1388&catname=hydraulic
Is there anyway to tell a 11gpm pump from a 16gpm pump? I run the engine at full throttle, so would that be 3600? The guy that built it did a nice job on it so I imagine he chose the parts to match each other, although I had to add a filter and automatic return valve. Thanks for the quick returns.
The Barnes 11 and 16 gpm pumps have identical size shape and shaft. Have to check the tag on the pump to tell the difference.
The lenght of the body of a Barnes 16 gpm pump is 5 1/5" face of mounting flange to base of pump.
The 11 gpm pump is 4 7/8" long.
The tag numbers will vary depending on who sells the pump ,Northern, TSC, Fleetfarm, Princess auto, etc.
The 11 gpm pump is 4 7/8" long.
The tag numbers will vary depending on who sells the pump ,Northern, TSC, Fleetfarm, Princess auto, etc.
I see surpluscenter uses the same picture for the 11 and 16 gpm pumps -but the dimensions are not the same.
Yes, this is a safe number to go with. Dont go jacking with your pressure unless you know your hoses and fittings are rated for 3,000. Most Reliefs on valves are set at 2250 or 2500 from the factory.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hmmm. You had to add a filter. YOU HAD TO ADD A FILTER. And an automatic return valve. Okay, maybe the valve is optional. And he put 10,000 lb gauges on system that should probably run 3000 max.
I'm having a hard time making that fit with the idea that he did a nice job, and chose the parts to match each other.
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
We have a splitter
It is 25 years old a factory made deal. Brave.. Never had a filter. would never put one on it either. It is a closed system. air comes in through the fiber vent in the fill cap. Other than that It has been fine.. and It has split a plenty of wood .
So I would not knock the builder for failing to put a filter on it.
It is 25 years old a factory made deal. Brave.. Never had a filter. would never put one on it either. It is a closed system. air comes in through the fiber vent in the fill cap. Other than that It has been fine.. and It has split a plenty of wood .
So I would not knock the builder for failing to put a filter on it.
Not sure why he never put a filter on it. I never met the builder but did talk to his son. I think the builder was a machinist. He took some extra steps when he built it. I'll get some pics of it eventually. Overall it was a good trade for some roofing I did.
In the following, keep in mind that I am a 'shade tree' mech - no formal training.
You say it is 'acting up'. You mean the pressure reading varies? That would be normal as the pressure should only be reading whatever it takes to split the log. Running empty (not splitting) it should be reading very low, Max reading would be achieved with the ram stalled which should be around 2,500-3,000. Now a strain gauge beteen the wood and the push plate would give some -very- high readings.
Harry K
CylinderService
ArboristSite Operative
Pressure gauges: A 3000 PSI gauge is a good choice for logsplitters. The gauge should have a higher max pressure than you ever expect to use - it's not good to peg them. The relief valve should be set for less than 3000 - I usually recommend 2000-2500. Pumps may be optimistically rated for 3000 or more, but they'll last longer at lower pressures, and the rest of the components are not rated that high. You can use gauges of higher ranges, but they won't give very accurate information. The other guys are right about fluctuating readings - the gauge is reading the amount of pressure it takes to keep the cylinder moving.
Filters: You could run your car without a filter too. It wouldn't break the first day, but most of us agree a filter is a good idea. Hydraulic filters are too. A lot of the "dirt" in the system comes from internal wear, rust inside the tank from condensation, and fine dirt which is not filtered out by the crude air filter in the fill cap. The dirt that does the most damage is so fine you can't see it. It's not a matter of whether dirt gets into the oil, but what you do about it. It's there.
Don the Hydraulics Guy
Filters: You could run your car without a filter too. It wouldn't break the first day, but most of us agree a filter is a good idea. Hydraulic filters are too. A lot of the "dirt" in the system comes from internal wear, rust inside the tank from condensation, and fine dirt which is not filtered out by the crude air filter in the fill cap. The dirt that does the most damage is so fine you can't see it. It's not a matter of whether dirt gets into the oil, but what you do about it. It's there.
Don the Hydraulics Guy
Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just a curious-type question here as an impromtu gear oil change on my old Tercel (pulled the wrong plug for my oil change, ever had one of them days? DOH! :bang: lol) showed a magnet inside the plug itself from which I cleaned a small amount of very fine steel debris. I am wondering if it would be an idea to drop a small magnet or two into the oil reservoir? It seeems to me this would add a bit of extra protection? Is it done already or anyone have experience with this? I don't know how much of the pumps are steel but I'd imagine most is, dunno.
Probably just a dumb Q but if I didn't ask I'd never know
Serge
Probably just a dumb Q but if I didn't ask I'd never know
Serge
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi, Don! Nice to have a pro commenting on this stuff.
Do you have a radar fix on what kind of pressures are usually run on splitters? We had quite a discussion on it a while back, but I don't recall that anyone had a definitive answer.
The advertised tonnage ratings of log splitters are often only marketing hype .
These tonnage figures can happen for a faction of a second when the ram reaches the end of it's stoke and pressure surges before the relief can fully react.
95% of the log splitter manufacturers use the Barnes 2-stage pumps, so pump pressure will be the same. The only difference will be the relief setting on the control valve which has to be set below the max. rating of the other hydraulic components, 2500 to 3000 PSI.
These tonnage figures can happen for a faction of a second when the ram reaches the end of it's stoke and pressure surges before the relief can fully react.
95% of the log splitter manufacturers use the Barnes 2-stage pumps, so pump pressure will be the same. The only difference will be the relief setting on the control valve which has to be set below the max. rating of the other hydraulic components, 2500 to 3000 PSI.
CylinderService
ArboristSite Operative
Magnets in tanks: We actually sell a reservoir drain plug with a magnet in it, but you could just put any magnet in the bottom of your tank (old speaker magnets are good, and free.) It's amazing how much stuff they pick up, which will not then be circulating in your oil. Of course, a good return line filter will get the non-magnetic particles too.
Log splitter pressures: I've commented on this before, but I usually recommend starting at 2000 PSI and setting it higher if you need to. You will almost always have one or more components rated for a maximum of 2500, so I recommend that as a maximum. Triptester is right - you don't max out your pressure very often. Most splitting is done at under 1000 PSI. While the 2 stage pumps are rated at 3000 PSI, they have no relief. The cartridge sticking out the side is the low pressure bypass, best left alone. If the relief on your valve doesn't open up, the pump could run the pressure up until something breaks (a hose if you're lucky, the pump housing if you're not.)
Nice talking with you guys...
Don
Log splitter pressures: I've commented on this before, but I usually recommend starting at 2000 PSI and setting it higher if you need to. You will almost always have one or more components rated for a maximum of 2500, so I recommend that as a maximum. Triptester is right - you don't max out your pressure very often. Most splitting is done at under 1000 PSI. While the 2 stage pumps are rated at 3000 PSI, they have no relief. The cartridge sticking out the side is the low pressure bypass, best left alone. If the relief on your valve doesn't open up, the pump could run the pressure up until something breaks (a hose if you're lucky, the pump housing if you're not.)
Nice talking with you guys...
Don
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