Splitter's hydrualic oil filter

[NELOG]

How often do you guys change your splitter's hydraulic oil filter or clean it.

I just fird up my Iron and Oak after a few months of not using it and it ran fine under no load, but when I started to split it sounded like it was about to die. Once the cycle was complete, it sounded fine again. I didn't know if this is possibly becasue the filter needs to be cleaned or replaced. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Patrick62]

nope.

The filters have a valve in them that allow the oil to bypass the filter when cold (thicker oil). I would think some other ideas:

Engine not up to snuff from sitting. Bad gas? Low compression?

Restriction in reverse hose of cylinder?

Valve plugged up?

Or maybe splitting bowling balls straight out of retirement is a little excessive.
Either way, I would not fret about it unless it happens again.

-pat

 

[talisker]

I have had the same filter on my home made splitter for 10 years and it is fine. Once the system is charged there is very little dirt introduced for the filter to deal with. By the way I use ATF (automatice transmission fluid) as a hydraulic oil. I founf that tractor hydraulic oil was so thick that it cavitated in cold weather. Changed to ATF and never had a problem.

 

[FuzzyOne]

I think most manuals call for a new filter every every 50 hrs. My splitter also says to change the hydro fluid every 100 hrs. I haven't done that yet and I'm not sure I'm going to.

As for the low power, I'd think engine before hydro problems as long as the fluid is at the proper level. My splitter literally sits under cover for 11 months a year before being touched and....knock on wood...I haven't experienced any problems.

 

[CylinderService]

Hydraulic Filters

I usually recommend changing the filter element once a year for most logsplitters, unless you're putting a lot of hours on it. The only way to tell if the filter is clogged is to measure the back pressure, with gauges before & after the filter. The bypass valve will just allow the oil to bypass the element. They usually open at 5 - 20 PSI. A filter which has been in use 10 years probably stopped filtering a long time ago.
By the way, the filter should have a 10 micron element and be located in the return line, between the valve and the tank. Pumps don't suck very well, so you can't use a very fine filter on the suction line - better to just use a strainer there if you feel you need one.
The particles which cause the most damage are so small you can't see them, so oil which looks clean may not be. Systems with filters which are changed regularly last longer. Especially the pumps. Filters are cheap insurance.
I agree with the previous writers about running out of power - that's probably an engine problem. The hydraulic system should open its relief valve before the engine runs out of power.

Don the hydraulics guy

 

[Tendencies]

I use the 25 hrs oil change on the engine (8hp Briggs 5-30 synthetic), 50 hrs on the hyd filter and I change out the hyd fluid every fall, my problem with the hyd fluid seems to be moisture collection, I figure it's coming from the heat up/cool down after use and moisture collects in the tank, definately not good for the seals or the chroming on the cylinder shaft..

T

 

[Kiwilogger]

I use second hand filtered hydraulic oil in my splitter. We change the hydro in our yarder at work twice a year, I swoop on that and poke it in the splitter tank. My tank takes 100 litres. New filter at the same time I change the oil every year. Never had a problem.