Splitters...New Tractor Supply VS. Used Iron & Oak??

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Well I made the journey to Lowes and got a DHT 22-ton. Under $1000 out the door with 10% coupon. I have already split a couple cords of ash and maple, and I am pretty happy with it so far although I will be running vertical until I get that log table!! I like the fast cycle time.

How hot is too hot for the ram to be getting? It got quite hot. Hydraulic oil level is correct.

And... *How* do I drain the engine oil to do the 5-hour oil change?

Thanks!
 
DHT is well designed -- nearly equivalent to I&O -- I bought the 22 ton for splitting > 100 c0rds/year -- very happy with the purchase so far.
 
Well I made the journey to Lowes and got a DHT 22-ton. Under $1000 out the door with 10% coupon. I have already split a couple cords of ash and maple, and I am pretty happy with it so far although I will be running vertical until I get that log table!! I like the fast cycle time.

How hot is too hot for the ram to be getting? It got quite hot. Hydraulic oil level is correct.

And... *How* do I drain the engine oil to do the 5-hour oil change?

Thanks!
Noticed the same thing with gnarly stuff, however splitting technique to initially stress the wood and then re-initiate the split seemed to help. I read someplace the hydraulic fluid shouldn't get over 140F.

DHT rep said engine unbolts so it can be tipped to change oil.
 
OK Thanks. FWIW I have rented multiple larger I&O units and the ram got even hotter...!

What would be the fastest way to cool down the hydraulic oil? Shutting the unit off, or cycling the unit with no wood?
 
OK Thanks. FWIW I have rented multiple larger I&O units and the ram got even hotter...!

What would be the fastest way to cool down the hydraulic oil? Shutting the unit off, or cycling the unit with no wood?
Fastest way to cool the oil would be to pipe a oil cooler with fan into the return line.
 
I have split about 4 cords with the DHT so far and I am pretty happy with it for the price... I have not been splitting any gnarly or big wood and the cylinder does get quite hot.

Been chasing a lot of hydraulic leaks, likely a Lowe's assembly issue..... One of the compression fittings on the stainless hard line was cross-threaded and leaking, other than that just seepage from various places. I also don't know why they used a couple of wimpy hose clamps for the large clear hydraulic line....

I will say that it definitely seems far superior to similar priced units!
 
I have split about 4 cords with the DHT so far and I am pretty happy with it for the price... I have not been splitting any gnarly or big wood and the cylinder does get quite hot.

Been chasing a lot of hydraulic leaks, likely a Lowe's assembly issue..... One of the compression fittings on the stainless hard line was cross-threaded and leaking, other than that just seepage from various places. I also don't know why they used a couple of wimpy hose clamps for the large clear hydraulic line....

I will say that it definitely seems far superior to similar priced units!

Thanks for the purchase. PLEASE be careful that you dont confuse seepage with the 'wet' sealant that we use on the fittings. It is an anaerobic sealant so it only seals in the absence of air. The excess on the outside of the fittings will remain slightly wet.
 
Thanks for the purchase. PLEASE be careful that you dont confuse seepage with the 'wet' sealant that we use on the fittings. It is an anaerobic sealant so it only seals in the absence of air. The excess on the outside of the fittings will remain slightly wet.

THANKS for the info. Like I said I'm happy with the unit for the price. I will be replacing the 2 hose clamps because there is hydraulic oil seeping from both. Also from the hydraulic filter. The compression fitting that was leaking a lot now just seeps a little bit.

How do I know if the hydraulic oil is getting too hot? Seems like the cylinder gets very hot under pretty light duty splitting. And what is the best way to cool it off so I can keep going?

Thanks.
 
Noticed the same thing with gnarly stuff, however splitting technique to initially stress the wood and then re-initiate the split seemed to help. I read someplace the hydraulic fluid shouldn't get over 140F.

DHT rep said engine unbolts so it can be tipped to change oil.
now that sounds like a hassle. why not a simple drain plug?do you have to unbolt the coupler too?
 
now that sounds like a hassle. why not a simple drain plug?do you have to unbolt the coupler too?

Never used one, but I have seen those oil suction tools advertised to change oil before, stick it down the dipstick tube. I know that isn't a wonderful option even if it works.

I guess you'd have to look at it and see how it could be modified to be easier to drain.

One of my small engines on a rider mower I modded with a half inch pipe extension and a cap, out to the side.
 
now that sounds like a hassle. why not a simple drain plug?do you have to unbolt the coupler too?
no need to unbolt coupler; before splitting I also cycle the cylinder a few times and watch the clear return line to make sure no air is in line. Really haven't noticed cylinder getting hot with 'routine' splits.
 
I used a 27 ton troy built from Lowes for years of hard use. Comes with Honda motor and all. Just recently sold it for what I paid for it. Only sold it due to divorce or I see no reason that I wouldn't have it forever.
 

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