Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

[Mustang71]

They were in 2 separate places in the store and I didn't want to walk around holding multiple hatchets. People are strange. My thinking is I do all my splitting with an axe but I only split small kindling with the hatchet so it might not have to be super tough. That being said I don't want the head flying off and hitting me in the foot.

 

[rarefish383]

The price was right and I'm sure it's worthy of splitting kindling. I wouldn't worry about it falling apart.

 

[Mustang71]

And that's y I'm kicking myself lol if I had the cash I'd buy the fiskars and the Ozark.

 

[Multifaceted]

Can't stay away from the Arvika, laid out my next grind pattern for behind the cheeks. Not quite sure how I'm going to execute this with the haft attached, but we'll see...

 

[Trx250r180]

Can't stay away from the Arvika, laid out my next grind pattern for behind the cheeks. Not quite sure how I'm going to execute this with the haft attached, but we'll see...

What will that do to the way it splits firewood ? Will it stick more ?

 

[Multifaceted]

What will that do to the way it splits firewood ? Will it stick more ?

This is meant to be a chopper, not a firewood splitter. The bevels behind the cheeks will keep the wood from binding up in the cut against the steel and facilitate wood removal. Not saying that it won't split firewood effectively, but I'm doing this purely for throwing chips when felling and bucking.

 

[Multifaceted]

Got one side mostly done, just a bit more touch-ups and some finesse. Used a bastard mill file and die grinder to get the job done, partly...

 

[Philbert]

Looks good. Now you need some ScotchBrite wheels to polish the faces smooth.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/
Philbert

 

[svk]

Pretty indeed!

I would have knicked the handle several times lol.

 

[Mustang71]

The price was right and I'm sure it's worthy of splitting kindling. I wouldn't worry about it falling apart.

I compared them side by side today. Same shape size and weight. Balanced the same. The grip and flare on the end of the handle is different. It's made in India and looks like they made a copy of the fiskars and changed it a bit to not have a lawsuit. I'm sure I could have switched the price tags on them and got away with it but I don't need problems. If I break it I'll probably buy an estwing.

 

[svk]

Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery I guess. Let us know how it performs.

 

[Mustang71]

So far it splits like a fiskars. Splits the wood and does not stick in. I really want an estwing so that was y I didn't buy the real fiskars. But my hatchet broke and it was time to find a new handle and weld up the head and re grind an edge or find a quick replacement.

 

[Multifaceted]

Spent the past three evenings casually filing and grinding on the Arvika working the custom profile. Now both sides are finished, smoothed out with a die grinder from coarse-med-fine grits, then buffed with a orbital pad and polishing compound. This axe is ready to tear through some hardwood!

 

[Wilson_tree]

Nice job on re-profiling the Arvika. I have one and ground a lot of metal off it to make it a chopper instead of a splitter. They are very hard steel and it is a lot of work to do what you accomplished. I didn't scallop out the cheeks because I wanted to retain the weight. I replaced the handle with a 30 inch hickory that I slowly thinned down to suit me. Enjoy the results of all your hard work!

 

[Multifaceted]

Nice job on re-profiling the Arvika. I have one and ground a lot of metal off it to make it a chopper instead of a splitter. They are very hard steel and it is a lot of work to do what you accomplished. I didn't scallop out the cheeks because I wanted to retain the weight. I replaced the handle with a 30 inch hickory that I slowly thinned down to suit me. Enjoy the results of all your hard work!

Thank you, kindly. You ought to post some pictures of yours, would like to see what you did to make it a good chopper. For now I'm liking the 32" haft, which is much shorter than my other heavy axes (except for my Basque axe which is about 25", 4.4 lb) — but we'll see how I adapt to it over time. For standing cut bucking, the shorter handle is an advantage. Overall, I'm starting to like shorter handles.

 

[Wilson_tree]

here is my Arvika5 Star. I ground the cheeks so much that the stamping is fading at the edges. It's still a heave duty edge, but it is now a good all around axe.

I can chop, split, and drive wedges with this.

 

[Wilson_tree]

This is my kindling and camp axe. It started life as a 2 1/4 lbs Collins Hunters axe I believe. I reshaped the entire axe to make it an excellent tool for splitting kindling, shaving tinder, and light splitting. The handle is white birch and has been tough, flexible, and shock absorbing.

 

[Multifaceted]

View attachment 632358 here is my Arvika5 Star. I ground the cheeks so much that the stamping is fading at the edges. It's still a heave duty edge, but it is now a good all around axe.
View attachment 632359
I can chop, split, and drive wedges with this.

You sure did take a lot off of those cheeks, I may flatten the cheek profile as well, but want to get some more feedback first.

 

[LondonNeil]

Thought I'd add a few more words about the fiskars x17. I've had it about 6 months now and although I've not done loads of splitting ( I have a 5 and 1/2 month old daughter too so been a bit busy) I've split 2/3 or maybe a cord with it. I've just been using it again on some Oak and it really really impresses me. Being a foot shorter and 2lb lighter than the X27 it clearly didn'td have the power of that tool but it does have a stunning amount, and like the X27 it rarely sticks and just feels so right. I've got in the habit of using the X27 to " chunk up" big rounds which need the power of that tool, or even the big boy stihl 8lber, but once i have a pile of quarter/sixth rounds I'll grab the x17 and use it to rattle through the splitting down to 3-5" splits that I need for my small stove. The x17 splits forth with ease, and is so much less work then the bigger tools for that job. So if you split small, it's great for easy stuff. If you have a big stove and load 8-10" splits it probably isn't for you though.

 

[svk]

These are going to be loaded up shortly and will give them a try this weekend out in the woods. Will report back after I put some time through them.

For the benefit of those that haven't followed the axe restoration thread, the Hudson Bay pattern was from my dad but I had broken the original handle with use and it kept wanting to walk out of the second one so I rehung it and left the handle proud above the head and wedged it extensively. The boy's axe head cost me a buck and although it had a pin repair job (which IMO adds to the uniqueness of it), it appears the repair job has held strong so it can be used for what it is due to the very small investment.

The handles are both from House Handle Co. They look nice now but needed quite a bit of work. I honestly would not recommend buying from them unless you need a handle quickly. I found both of these in the local fleet supply store and had to run through probably ten handles to find one with acceptable grain. I stripped the less than perfect varnish and finished with several coats of BLO. The BLO is nice to put on the heads as well because it dries on sort of like the seasoning on a cast iron pan.