Spoke with the folk at Traditional Woodworker today; just missed the shipment that went out from Muller in Austria. Next shipment will be in 4-6 months, depending on orders made between now and then. They will contact me when they are about to make another order from Muller. Shipping costs this way are minimal: $12.95; 10-11 lbs. Maul (5000 g) is $173.00 with hickory handle; $149.00 with ash handle.
Splitting Florida Live Oak
- Thread starter tim cole
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Kfd518
ArboristSite Operative
Large maul or sledge and narrow sharp wedges. I work with twisted gnarly live oak here as well. Still not easy this way but the stuff will stall a 35ton splitter
Unlike other types of wood, if you allow Live Oak here in FL to cure for a year, it only gets harder and harder. I used a sledge and a sharpened wedge in an attempt to split a Live Oak round with a knot; just wouldn't split, even after 10-20 good strikes. And I have a mountain of Live Oak rounds left to split. But it is good exercise for a Pastor!
Kfd518
ArboristSite Operative
Same with the L.O. Here it's what I prefer to burn. Crotches and obvious knots do get noodled, even though it does a pretty good job on bar and chain. Have had 3 wedges buried in a 10" round before to get it finished! Seems the bigger it is the easier it is to work with though. 18"+ is almost a dream!
Not to derail, but I see you're a pastor, am elder myself… L.O. Is great for relieving frustration and headaches!
Not to derail, but I see you're a pastor, am elder myself… L.O. Is great for relieving frustration and headaches!
Thornton
40:1 wide open like a chicken on a chain
On our tough live oaks or any tough splitting wood i usually start splitting at the edges working in a circle towards the center with a 8lb maul
If you are an Elder, then you are also a Pastor (Acts 20:28; 1 Peter 5:1-3); The word "Pastor" from Ephesians 4:12ff is, unfortunately, a Latin carry over word and if correctly translated is "Shepherd." Elders are shepherds are "Pastors" are Overseers; all interchangeable terms used to describe the team that leads the church. I see you're in Texas; did my seminary training in Dallas, Texas!
In any case, I found a 10 lbs. maul head on e-bay. Will try to purchase it and find an appropriate handle. Then, perhaps, can make some headway on the stubborn LIVE Oak. I won't give up on it yet. All the best to you with the same!
thefeckerwest
ArboristSite Lurker
In my opinion an ash handle would do just fine. Wrap some suitable cable around the handle next to the maul-head and then cover it with tape. If it is done properly, it will protect the handle from overstrike.
Update: The Traditional Woodworker has agreed to contact me when they make their next order from Muller in Austria. Can't wait.
In addition, I found a 10 lbs. Maul head on e-bay--not the same design as the Muller--but still 10 lbs. Received it in the mail, inserted a nice Ames hickory handle and started on my pile of (cured for a year) Florida Live Oak rounds. I tried hitting it in the middle first where I spotted a few micro-cracks. The 10 lbs. maul head literally bounced off the round. WOW! After 4-5 more attempts with all my strength, same results. The maul acted like a rubber ball on concrete.
So, not to be defeated with my new maul, I went for a small slice on the side; the head penetrated deep enough for me to finish with my 8 lbs. sledge hammer. Almost took 15 minutes to take the round completely apart. I can do more damage to concrete with my maul than Florida Live Oak. But the good news: the oak will burn slow in "winter."
In addition, I found a 10 lbs. Maul head on e-bay--not the same design as the Muller--but still 10 lbs. Received it in the mail, inserted a nice Ames hickory handle and started on my pile of (cured for a year) Florida Live Oak rounds. I tried hitting it in the middle first where I spotted a few micro-cracks. The 10 lbs. maul head literally bounced off the round. WOW! After 4-5 more attempts with all my strength, same results. The maul acted like a rubber ball on concrete.
So, not to be defeated with my new maul, I went for a small slice on the side; the head penetrated deep enough for me to finish with my 8 lbs. sledge hammer. Almost took 15 minutes to take the round completely apart. I can do more damage to concrete with my maul than Florida Live Oak. But the good news: the oak will burn slow in "winter."
thefeckerwest
ArboristSite Lurker
If you want to get that Muller maul, I would not depend on them making contact with you before the next order goes in. Place the order with them now, or soon.
As regards splitting the oak, remember what was said earlier. Attack the round first from the outside, where the rings are at their widest. Going down the middle, only makes hard work harder. Out of curiosity, how did you 'finish' with the 8lbs. sledge hammer? I would have thought that once the round was opened up, it would be relatively easy to continue with the maul.
Well, as I got closer to the middle of the round, more resistance was experienced; so I made small cuts and then used two wedges with the sledge hammer. That did it; but it took a while. And I have a huge pile to go. But it's good exercise, nonetheless. I also picked up some additional, freshly cut Live Oak, two weeks down. After a few attempts with the maul, I gave up. The rounds just laughed at me. So, I'll get at 'em some other time. Thanks fort your response.
I like the design of the head and metal sleeve over the handle. When i was a kid living at home we split all the wood by hand. When the barrels wouldnt split easy with the maul we would use a sledge to drive the maul through. We tried the wedges but they always had a tendancy to pop out... PITA. Holding the maul and using the sledge at the same time worked the best for us. Yes you need 2 people. And the broad head split them better. Granted no live oak here in the Northeast but it worked well on everthing else we split.
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