First rebuild. Looking for some words of wisdom. What should the squish be on a 395XP ?
Squish on a 395XP ?
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Brent Nowell
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Do you mean stock? Or what you want to shoot for?
Not sure what to shoot for. Not trying to do anything special with it. Stock would be great.
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mine stock is 45 thousandths!!
You could pull the base gasket in this instance and probably get it down quite a bit.
18 thousandths and less is considered dangerous, some people are running 18 thousandths.
20 is ideal.
I don’t know if a 395 can get that low without machine work.
more power with a tighter squish but he warned.
Carbon deposits could lead to detonation easier with a tighter squish. you also should up the AKI on your fuel (premium) to avoid a mishap such as that and preignition under really hot conditions as well.
The stock squish is set at that number for a reason.
Anywho lots of threads on that
You could pull the base gasket in this instance and probably get it down quite a bit.
18 thousandths and less is considered dangerous, some people are running 18 thousandths.
20 is ideal.
I don’t know if a 395 can get that low without machine work.
more power with a tighter squish but he warned.
Carbon deposits could lead to detonation easier with a tighter squish. you also should up the AKI on your fuel (premium) to avoid a mishap such as that and preignition under really hot conditions as well.
The stock squish is set at that number for a reason.
Anywho lots of threads on that
To set the squish i buy different thickness gaskets, correct? Do they come in a verity pack, or do I need to measure me squish and get the right thickness?
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good question, but I do believe husky only offers one size, stock. There may be other manufacturers or different applications for thinner gasket material.
What is your squish right now with the gasket?
What is your squish right now with the gasket?
This is my first build. I had never heard of squish till I put this saw together and it has too much compression. Will jerk your fingers off even with the compression valve pushed in. Spins fine with the spark plug out. I read a few old threads, and I believe that squish could be my problem. I actually have 2 - 395 xp saws, one that works, and this one that has been in pieces in a box for the past few years. It had a bad piston & cylinder and needed the needle bearing on the small end of the rod. Not wanting to invest a lot I purchased a $20 cylinder & piston kit from China thinking I would take a shot at porting it. No big deal if I trashed a $20 dollar cylinder, right. After reading on here what all was involved in porting I decided to leave that to the pros. Still not knowing what I was doing, I started putting it together. It had some red gasket goo at the base of the cylinder, I cleaned it off and assembled it with some brown gasket goo. So answer to your question, It has no gasket, just some gasket goo. I have not tried to measure the squish yet. I need to come up with some solider and a micrometer.
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Without a bar on the saw for the added weight it will be very hard to pull.
If you haven’t already, put a bar and chain on and try again with the decomp.
However you are right, you want to check it with solder
If you haven’t already, put a bar and chain on and try again with the decomp.
However you are right, you want to check it with solder
![IMG_0774[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/477/477351-70fe02e3989e7a1b9fda7575fd4f7274.jpg "IMG_0774[1].JPG")
So, I got this thing clamped in the vice to hold it still, and the compression is ripping the skin off my fingers!
I checked the squish twice. First time I got .056 on one side and second time I got .050 on the other side. .050 is a lot, correct? Should be low compression ? I installed a new decompression valve. The new valve is a little stiffer to operate but it didn't help. Most of the time when you pull the starter rope the decomp valve will kick out when the first compression stroke comes up. When the second compression stroke rolls around is when I loose a finger. I got it started one time. I ran it for about 2 minuets. Shut it off as the oiler was starting to oil the workbench and wall. I am open for suggestions. Any ideas?
Turn the kill switch off and pull it over. If it’s a bunch easier, the flywheel key might be sheared.
If not,
the ping Chong cylinder might be like square peg, round hole
If not,
the ping Chong cylinder might be like square peg, round hole
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
I concurr, pull it over with the decomp on and kill switch in the off position and see if it happens.
SierraMtns
ArboristSite Operative
Start man size saws like this.
Good call! With the ignition switch off it cranks just fine. I pulled the flywheel and the key looks good. Does this mean it’s my Ping Chong cylinder?
I’d say the coil is going bad. It’s advancing the timing at idle making it difficult to start.
Jkstihl
Chainsaws make me fap.
The problem here is that you didnt get the ching chong wang version...rookie mistake.
Oooo... I bought a coil for my 385 just a few months ago. My Husqvarna dealer explained it like this, "The more pricey the saw is, the more pricey the coil will be. Nobody will pay $175 for a coil on a $200 saw, but they will for a 385." Can I swap the coil from the 385 and give that a try? I do believe you are right, it is a timing problem.
No they’re different. But I was thinking more like $80 on the 395.
No reputable AM coils that I know of, either. Oem only
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
First time I have heard of a coil going bad like this, usually they will give you a reduction in voltage for the spark. Checking it with an ohm meter will indicate a break in the winding or most likely a short for that case.
But to just advance timing like that, an ohm reading would not identify that problem...
Too bad coils are sealed, no other way to check for the issue that the poster has...
You can try the 385 coil, it should work given the coil mount position on both saws is the same, and the flywheel they utilize is the same, also the position of magnets and the position of the poles is the same
But to just advance timing like that, an ohm reading would not identify that problem...
Too bad coils are sealed, no other way to check for the issue that the poster has...
You can try the 385 coil, it should work given the coil mount position on both saws is the same, and the flywheel they utilize is the same, also the position of magnets and the position of the poles is the same
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