Starting stihl saw

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Zinger

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I've read the manual and the dealer showed my how to start. He didn't actual start it but told me what to do. It's a MS290

1. Full choke - pull 3 times
2. Half choke - pull until it starts

It always takes me awhile to get it started. Longer than I really want. Once started though it's easy. Just one pull in the "on" position.

Are there any other "tricks" to make the initial start easier?

Yes. There's good gas.
No. I will not replace it with a MS361.
 
I've read the manual and the dealer showed my how to start. He didn't actual start it but told me what to do. It's a MS290

1. Full choke - pull 3 times
2. Half choke - pull until it starts

It always takes me awhile to get it started. Longer than I really want. Once started though it's easy. Just one pull in the "on" position.

Are there any other "tricks" to make the initial start easier?

Yes. There's good gas.
No. I will not replace it with a MS361.

Full choke until it pops then 1/2 choke. (3 pulls at full choke may not be enough if it's been sitting awhile.) Make sure the pulls are nice crisp yanks.
 
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Oh OK. I'm fairly new with chainsaws. My trimmer seems to start fairly easier and my lawnmower only needs 1 pull to start. These are my only experience with pull starts.
 
Full choke until it pops then 1/2 choke. (3 pulls at full choke may not be enough if it's been sitting awhile.) Make sure the pulls are nice crisp yanks.

I think the manual said 7 pulls on full.

"pop" Is that when the engine almost starts?
 
"pop" Is that when the engine almost starts?

"Pop" is the very first detectable sign of engine life and it can be fairly subtle. Immediately go to half choke at that point.
 
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i have always heard that Stihls are hard to start. to me they are very dependable to start if you follow the directions. i have read several people say to pull 3-4x's on full choke and then move to 1/2 choke until it starts (this may pertain to PE with decomp valves??). i have tried using this technique on my 310, bg85 and fs 85. they do not seem to work for me. the best way is to follow the stihl instructions which are to set it to full choke and pull until it pops. then move it to have choke and pull. my equipment will almost always start on the first pull after the move to 1/2 choke. one thing not to do is to move the throttle during any of this. let the choke do the metering of the fuel. most of the time it takes 4-6 pulls on the trimmer and blower, and 6-10 on the saw, assuming they have set overnight. if they have been sitting for an hour or two, 1 or 2 pulls on full choke will usually get the "pop".
 
After trying to start it with full choke, instead of a pop, the motor can actually crank and run momentarily while fully choked. By momentarily, I mean not even long enough for you to release the pull handle in order to set the choke lever to 1/2 choke position or pull the throttle trigger, unless your real fast. At this point you do the same as if it would only have popped; Start it in 1/2 choke position.
Also, if your saw does not pop or run after a substantial number of pulls at full choke, I say 10 or so there is likely something wrong. This should not happen with a healthy saw, but it can happen if the saw is less than healthy due to several possible causes. For instance: Dirty air filter, less than adequate compression, dirty or worn spark plug, improperly adjusted carburator or intake leak, weak ignition, substandard fuel, ect. ect.

I've had 'less-than-healthy' saws that flooded easily when trying to start them and sometimes I would either have to start it with no choke at wide open throttle (which is very unsafe, especially if the chain brake is not engaged) or remove the spark plug and dry / replace it.
 
I think the manual said 7 pulls on full.

"pop" Is that when the engine almost starts?

"Pop" is the very first detectable sign of engine life and it can be fairly subtle. Immediately go to half choke at that point.

Sometimes it is just enough to pop the comp release. I look at thebutton between each pull. Of course, not needed on anything smaller than a 460, IMO, but definittely useful on an 084.........:greenchainsaw:
 
I just wanted to clarify that there is no 1/2 choke. Once you flip the control switch up one notch from choke, the choke is totally off and the throttle plate is held partially open for a high idle. Well, it's more than a high idle actually. I've found that the pop can be hard to hear on some new saws such as the 361. A muffler mod makes it a lot easier to hear and not flood.
 
Had that trouble too Brad...

I just wanted to clarify that there is no 1/2 choke. Once you flip the control switch up one notch from choke, the choke is totally off and the throttle plate is held partially open for a high idle. Well, it's more than a high idle actually. I've found that the pop can be hard to hear on some new saws such as the 361. A muffler mod makes it a lot easier to hear and not flood.

I flooded mine out years ago cause I didnt hear the pop...I'll crank mine at least 3 pulls,,and then go to half notch...It time I learned what saw takes more to choke than the others......
 
Always full choke and pull till she pops. Then half choke/fast idle and 1 or two more pulls will get her running. My 260 takes quite a few pulls on choke for it to pop. The 440 is much faster for some reason. Don't go by a set #. How ever many it takes to you hear the pop.
 
Best thing to do is sell it and by a Jred or Husky or a Dolmar. See a useless post just the kind a Stihl head would make if you were asking a Question about a "Other Saw". But since you asked a ? I will try and help many have answered it already but the key is that pop or rumble that's the key otherwise you might flood it if you pull more than three times with the choke on I would take it off choke or you risk flooding it but then that my saw's and not a Stihl in the bunch:popcorn:
 
I just wanted to clarify that there is no 1/2 choke. Once you flip the control switch up one notch from choke, the choke is totally off and the throttle plate is held partially open for a high idle. Well, it's more than a high idle actually. I've found that the pop can be hard to hear on some new saws such as the 361. A muffler mod makes it a lot easier to hear and not flood.

My bad. Thanks for pointing that out.

blsnelling said:
Well, it's more than a high idle actually

Yes it is and I don't much care for the way Stihl does this.
If the chainbrake is not engaged, it make for a dangerous start-up -
and
If the brake is engaged, the clutch takes abuse. I admit it's not serious abuse, but slipping the clutch pads on the stationary drum is never good. :(
 
If the brake is engaged, the clutch takes abuse. I admit it's not serious abuse, but slipping the clutch pads on the stationary drum is never good. :(

It takes less then a second or two to release the chain brake or kick the control to the run position after the saw starts. I hardly think that's abuse.
 
It takes less then a second or two to release the chain brake or kick the control to the run position after the saw starts. I hardly think that's abuse.

I actually start my saw with the chain brake off, full choke till it pops then click it to run and pull away. It may take more pulls, but it sure don't flood and when it starts it doesn't rev up.
 
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