Sticky dial indicator

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we should stay on topic..................

there is another section here for that.
 
I think there is proper applications for cheapo and high dollar indicators of which I use both. I am surley not going to put my brown and sharp best test indicator on the tool post of my lathe when I am taking a .500 rough cut on a shaft. I use the $9.99 dial indicator for stuff like this all the time, so when it gets droped on the floor or a red hot chip burns through the face it is not a $150.00 mistake. Also take a real close look at the $9.99 dial indicators and the mitutoyo indicators you might have a hard time finding a difference.
 
As far as cleaning just take your blow gun and try blowing out the gears and in behind the face. Now as far as which caliper to order for dead accuracy that would half to be the Mitutoyo super solar caliper for $180 and its coolant proof and battery less :popcorn: .
 
the old karmann ghias.....nice car....many didn't know this about them:

The Ghias are a neat car, I've seen one at a classic car auction in Auburn, Ind. that had a 3.0L Porcshe motor in it. It was a cool deal.
Thats funny that you mentioned the segmented fenders, My dad had a body shop when I was growing up and he was repairing a English car (I was to young to care what it was) but he had to order the front fender from the manufacturer in England. The thing showed up a few weeks later in a small box and it was in pieces like you said, the old man is a old body guy so it wasn't a problem, he had oxy weld the thing and lead it, but I remember him Bichen about it.
 
As far as cleaning just take your blow gun and try blowing out the gears and in behind the face. Now as far as which caliper to order for dead accuracy that would half to be the Mitutoyo super solar caliper for $180 and its coolant proof and battery less :popcorn: .

many many years ago when i began my apprenticeship, if you were caught using an air gun near any lathe, milling machine, or any equipment or gauges, they'd throw you out right then and there.

reason was because air guns would force fine particles into the slides, bearings and ways of the machinery, making them wear out faster and losing their close tolerances. same thing with gauges...some were very intricate and an air gun could render them useless in a second.
 
The Ghias are a neat car, I've seen one at a classic car auction in Auburn, Ind. that had a 3.0L Porcshe motor in it. It was a cool deal.
Thats funny that you mentioned the segmented fenders, My dad had a body shop when I was growing up and he was repairing a English car (I was to young to care what it was) but he had to order the front fender from the manufacturer in England. The thing showed up a few weeks later in a small box and it was in pieces like you said, the old man is a old body guy so it wasn't a problem, he had oxy weld the thing and lead it, but I remember him Bichen about it.

damn....i'm gonna show my age here, but i remember many people using the old lead repairs on cars.

not like your dad did, but lead made for some good fill.
 
damn....i'm gonna show my age here, but i remember many people using the old lead repairs on cars.

not like your dad did, but lead made for some good fill.

Yeah, Leading is not very efficent deal, it's alot of work to do the same as the plastic fillers, plus the lead that you find now has a lot of tin in it, it doesn't work as nice. He had a lead gun that you would hook up to oxy/acetylne and you'd feed lead sticks into it and it would spray lead to the surface. Yeah my dad is 71 now, he taught me how to lead at an early age, I'll say this it's not near as easy as it looks. He's an old man himself now, he turns 71 at the end of the month. It is a lost trade for sure, same with the old body men, alot of talent those men had.
 
vacume

many many years ago when i began my apprenticeship, if you were caught using an air gun near any lathe, milling machine, or any equipment or gauges, they'd throw you out right then and there.

reason was because air guns would force fine particles into the slides, bearings and ways of the machinery, making them wear out faster and losing their close tolerances. same thing with gauges...some were very intricate and an air gun could render them useless in a second.

I learned from and old die maker to use a vacume cleaner as the primary cleaner, and never use forced air, cabinman,
 
Oh well I just know what I'm told, all I know is that I will be washing my next caliper instead of blowing it or sucking it out.
 
3 in 1 oil

never use 3 in 1 oil on anything except maybe a shovel to keep it from rusting. Sewing machine oil is pretty good. 3 in 1 has too much varnish in it, sticks things up like wd40. 3 in 1 will often render a sewing machine unuseable due to its stickyness, alot of spring returned cam type stuff. prolly be okay for a hoe as well.
 
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