Stihl 017 - Which Replacement Carb

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gopackgo

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I have cleaned and re-cleaned my Stihl 017's carb and I think I'm just going to replace it as they're not that expensive. I really like the 017 when it's running so I need to figure out a way to get it to run more consistently.

Right now, it will start up well enough when it's cold. It doesn't run great and I have to stay on the throttle at least a little or it will die. Then, usually after about 5min or so of using it it will die and I will not be able to get it to start for 24hrs or so.

So, I'm willing to stick a little money into it to rebuild it even though I know it's not exactly on the top of most people's list of desirable saws.

So, what replacement carb would you guys recommend and where should I get it from?
 
Off the top of my head..I think the only bolt on carb available is the 1130 120 0603. Can't remember the carb model right now.
 
Because the carb is intended for 021/023/025, there is a brass welch plug you will need to remove in order to open up the impulse passage.
Then you'll need to block the passage not being used. A tiny dab of Yamabond or silicone will do the trick.
I have pics somewhere, I'll try to find them for you.
 
Good information on the 215 changeover, thanks for that.

Seen a couple of 017s with weak/intermittant spark. They run for a few minutes then the light goes out.
I have one on the shop floor somewhere that needs a firestarter myself.
Too easy to grab a good 024 off the shelf than worry about fixing the 017
 
Thanks for all the replies
@Adirondack - Thanks for all the pics. You have me thinking about attempting it with your excellent instructions and pics.

What would I gain from going with that carb vs the drop in one that eagle1899 linked to?
 
The one I linked is cheaper but Chinese made. I have had no problems with the ones (2 of this particular one) I've used.

The 215 is going to be a quality product with no doubt. Adirondackstihls directions are great!

I skipped installing the compensation port on top the carb. I plug the air box port with silicone.

Either way you go should be fine. Just remember you are going to have to tune the saw when you are done.
 
Anyone have a good guide for tuning the saw once I get the new carb installed?

Thanks as always for the help!
 
Well, I got the Walbro clone, installed it and tried it out without adjusting at all just to see where it was at. The saw runs GREAT!

So, now I need to figure out the tuning though. I watched that video and I have a hard time hearing the differences he is talking about.

For now though, I'm glad my little saw is running well and usable again. It sounds like the main potential issue of leaving it as is would be running it lean which would damage the saw.
 
so did you use the chinese knock of ?what was the carb number? and did you have to mod it at all? or just drop it in .....
 
This is the carb I used -

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221863036204&alt

It was a drop in fit. Then you must clearance the outer housing as shown by Adirondackstihl to allow access to the H/L adjustments.

I did not use the compensation port off the OEM carb. I plugged the corresponding hole in the air box with silicone.

Different saw after carb swap and muffler mod.

I did not advance the timing, if I can get my friend to bring me the saw this winter I will. It is also supposed to help.
 
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