bcorradi
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Do you woodsport stihls for others, or just huskies?
Stihl 026 Stock / Ported Comparison Pics
- Thread starter Mastermind
- Start date
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i cut my teeth on stihls and have built some mean little 026 saws but the gains just are not in the 026 that are in the 346 for a woods port. but with some real butchering on the 026 it'll run and i still have a couple of 2 piece head 026 cylinders in the shop.
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
Ok...I've seen some mean ported 026's without 2 piece heads.
and ive built some really good running 026's with stock head but if you really want it to open up and run you have to butcher the carb housing and put in a bigger carb. without it you wont ever get the full potential of the saw.
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
Yeah you are correct and that is a definite disadvantage with an 026.
rms61moparman
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Andrew Wellman
ArboristSite Operative
forgive me for barging into this thread
I just read most of the posts on this thread because I have (5) MS 026 basket cases that I picked up from the Stihl shop I work part time at. I have done some very basic port work on an 4600 Echo, but would like to work on one of these 026's. This will be my first official port mapping. What are some do's and don't on these saws. I am not going to mess with the transfers nor modify the carb. I just am going to do some safe first timer stuff. I am all ears. Things I am thinking of doing, widening the ports to 65%, and removing the base gasket. Will this delay in exhaust and intake need to be corrected or ?
andy
I just read most of the posts on this thread because I have (5) MS 026 basket cases that I picked up from the Stihl shop I work part time at. I have done some very basic port work on an 4600 Echo, but would like to work on one of these 026's. This will be my first official port mapping. What are some do's and don't on these saws. I am not going to mess with the transfers nor modify the carb. I just am going to do some safe first timer stuff. I am all ears. Things I am thinking of doing, widening the ports to 65%, and removing the base gasket. Will this delay in exhaust and intake need to be corrected or ?
andy
Nitroman
Addicted to ArboristSite
With one of these little machines you could really wring out what helps and what doesn't:
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
With one of these little machines you could really wring out what helps and what doesn't:
That would be the trick. If I was a smart man I would build something like that. :msp_rolleyes:
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Roll Tide
Trolltide
I wouldnt let that Randy guy touch any of my saws, no way:msp_tongue:
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Building a Dyno is a project that has intrigued me for a while now. A 100 amp alternator and a load bank that was monitored with a computer program could work.
I really have no idea where to start though.
Me either David..... :cool2:
Andrew Wellman
ArboristSite Operative
intake port on rubber manifold side question
I noticed that you kept the lower and right side thickening on the intake port. I was practicing on a justsalveagable 026 jug and before I saw that you your photo were I saved these. I filed them to match the radius of the other two sides. Did I do something wrong?
andy
I get a lot of guys asking questions about port work. I'm building a really nice 026 for a member and thought I would show a stock jug side by side with a ported jug. This would be a great thread to throw out any questions about porting. If I can't answer them there are many guys here that can.
In this shot you can see that I didn't really enlarge the intake much, just smoothed out the casting lines and blended it out.
I just take the lip out of the lower transfers on a mild work saw. I don't find it necessary to open them any more on a work saw of this size.
I spend much more time on the upper transfers than the lowers. Here I've widened these as much as possible, and raised them a few degrees as well.
The exhaust port gets quite a bit of work. I widen the port, and increase the outlet size as well. On this saw the port is already fairly high (164° duration - 98° from TDC) so it's not been raised at all.
The shiny spot in the center of the exhaust port is the plating, like I mentioned above this port is at the stock height, only widened.
I noticed that you kept the lower and right side thickening on the intake port. I was practicing on a justsalveagable 026 jug and before I saw that you your photo were I saved these. I filed them to match the radius of the other two sides. Did I do something wrong?
andy
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
It's got a lot to do with preference Andy. I match the intake boot to the jug.....nothing more. I like to think that it will flow better matched as closely as possible. Also something to consider is flow velocity......bigger ain't always better.
Andrew Wellman
ArboristSite Operative
That makes sense
That makes sense. I did not even consider the boot and its shapeing. Good thing that the only one depending on my work is me. :msp_smile:
That makes sense. I did not even consider the boot and its shapeing. Good thing that the only one depending on my work is me. :msp_smile:
Horsepwraddict
ArboristSite Member
awesome thread Randy. I just made a trade for a freshly rebuilt 026 and ive wanted to port it since i took it home. When the time comes would you be against cutting the piston for me? Its the only thing i cant do myself.
Andrew Wellman
ArboristSite Operative
what should I do next
These are pics of the work I did widening the ports this am before work. The exhaust is now 29mm and the intake is just before the edge of the skirt. As with the photos I saw on thread post, I smoothed the bottom edge of the lower transfers. I don't have a tool to widen the upper transfers towards the intake. I think I am going to leave out the base gasket and leave the exhaust timing stock (98), as I saw was done to a saw in this thread. Now the compression will go up a touch and the exhaust timing will retard a bit but do these two cancel each other out? I was thinking of either lowering the intake a degree (more time area and earlier) or trimming the skirt up a smidge. What should I do next, or just mount it and see what happens and then go forward. I am getting a hang of the timing wheel and am sort of mimicking what I have seen in these posts. Still using the training wheels and not ready for a two wheeler.
andy
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These are pics of the work I did widening the ports this am before work. The exhaust is now 29mm and the intake is just before the edge of the skirt. As with the photos I saw on thread post, I smoothed the bottom edge of the lower transfers. I don't have a tool to widen the upper transfers towards the intake. I think I am going to leave out the base gasket and leave the exhaust timing stock (98), as I saw was done to a saw in this thread. Now the compression will go up a touch and the exhaust timing will retard a bit but do these two cancel each other out? I was thinking of either lowering the intake a degree (more time area and earlier) or trimming the skirt up a smidge. What should I do next, or just mount it and see what happens and then go forward. I am getting a hang of the timing wheel and am sort of mimicking what I have seen in these posts. Still using the training wheels and not ready for a two wheeler.
andy
View attachment 244152View attachment 244153View attachment 244154View attachment 244155View attachment 244156
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I don't have a 026 bottom end here to mock it up on. I really hate to do a popup or cut a squish band without being able to set it up and actually check clearances.
If you sent the just the bottom end with piston and jug.....
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I would take the transfer inlets on down to the base. Also be sure to verify that you have enough squish before you ditch the base gasket. I've seen a lot of 026s too tight.
