Stihl 029 - clutch drum replacement - part question?

[SteveSr]

As far as the air filter goes.....um....well, (yikes) I have a new one on its way that I ordered when I ordered the new drum because the current one was very clogged :-(

I the new filter OEM or AM? AM filters aren't terribly loved on this site. Put up pics of the old filterso we can see what type material it is and the general condition. It may be salvageable but won't know until it is cleaned.

I brushed off the dust on both sides of the current one a few days ago, so I can't show you what it looked like before, but I'm guessing dust from a dull chain clogs the filter and if I were throwing chips, I wouldn't have as much of a problem, correct?

Correct. Under-powered saws in hard wood like sharp chains!

Is there a way to clean the fleece filter to get more life out of it? When I brush off caked-on dust, it still seems the fleece is completely clogged. Should I soak it in something, like denatured alcohol to clean it?

First off, NEVER use a stiff brush like a tooth brush as you'll damage the filter material. You can use a SOFT paintbrush to remove the big crud on the outside of the filter. Just try to avoid pushing the debris further into the filter as it will be harder to get out. The less you touch it the better.

As other folks have said I used to use soap and water and a soft paint brush but the water will swell the sawdust debris in the filter making it harder to remove. I now use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner with the straw from the inside out. No brush required. At about $2.50 a can on sale you can get quite a few cleanings out of a can versus $30+ for a new Stihl OEM filter. I have recovered many horrible looking Stihl "manila" flocked filters with brake cleaner.

QUOTE="JEG in Raleigh, post: 7263367, member: 170125"] For what it's worth, the saw has been running fine and is not running rich.[/QUOTE]
This carb has the compensating feature so will reduce the amount of fuel to account for the reduced airflow through the filter. Of course, the HP goes down sharply in compensation mode... which may be part of your clutch slippage.

 

[tug]

Stihl makes a service pack for sale at almost all of their dealers for this saw and almost all of their non pro line. It comes with a air filter, fuel filter and spark plug for $15-$20. This is the way to go the filter itself used to cost $30 before they started making these kit. The owners manual recommends just soap and water for cleaning an air filter but I would blow them off with compressed air. I have used impact guns or drivers on saws just don't get carried away, make sure you are going in the right direction and remove the spark plug as you can get a saw to fire by turning it over.

 

[SteveSr]

OK, here are the pics. The "before" pics are after I had brushed off the caked-on dust and tried to clean the filter with gasoline...that's why they are dark. Before I brushed off the caked-on dust, the filter media was yellow. I just followed your's and the guys' instructions and pried the filter apart and cleaned inside and out with dawn (and windex) and water, and that got it alot cleaner.

That filter may or may not be salvagable. It looks like most of the debris has been removed from the outside. Can't tell how much is still trapped inside. Hold it up to the light to see if you can see any daylight through it.

Now that it has seen water put it somewhere warm where the remaining wood debris will dry out. This may take a day or so depending on where you put it. Once it and the remaining wood debris is thoroughly dry go at it with the brake cleaner from the inside out. Start on one of two squares and let the brake cleaner dry. Then hold it up to the light to see the difference between the treated and non-treated areas. If you see significant daylight vs. the non treated finish cleaning the filter with brake cleaner.

Once the filter is cleaned and dry inspect the filter material for pin holes by holding up to the sun or other bright light source. If you see many pin holes the filter material has been damaged and the filter should be replaced.

 

[HarleyT]

While you are down to that point, take a peek at the fuel line under the carb. That model is well known for cracks in the fuel lines right there.

 

[mike-s]

Interesting idea but wouldn't any mix/oil from a bad crank seal have to go around the BIG clutch implosion washer and through the actual clutch to get to the inside face of the clutch drum? Seems sort of unlikely to me.

Pics look a lot like the 028 I just tore down. Bad seal/bearing.

The oil is coming from somewhere, where else is there? The oil pump? That's even more isolated from the inside of the clutch drum. Which do you think is most likely?

 

[SteveSr]

Stihl makes a service pack for sale at almost all of their dealers for this saw and almost all of their non pro line. It comes with a air filter, fuel filter and spark plug for $15-$20. This is the way to go the filter itself used to cost $30 before they started making these kit. The owners manual recommends just soap and water for cleaning an air filter but I would blow them off with compressed air. I have used impact guns or drivers on saws just don't get carried away, make sure you are going in the right direction and remove the spark plug as you can get a saw to fire by turning it over.

Yes, tune-up kits are usually less expensive than individual parts.

I don't know where the OP lives but if he is near any John Deere dealerships (like Quality Equipment) that sell Stihl parts they, at least used to, have a much lower parts markup compared to the local Stihl dealers or heaven forbid... Ace Hardware / Town & Country Hardware.

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

I'm not far from Brier Creek and I have couple of little Deere tractors and know Quality Equipment in Durham....about 20 minutes away. They do sell Stihl parts, but I did not know you can get better pricing from them. Attached is the filter I have coming. It is an aftermarket part (attached) but it looks closer to an OEM part than the ones I saw on Amazon. If it's junk, I'll try to find one of those tune-up kits locally.

So, this afternoon, I cleaned my old filter and am letting it dry. I had an old filter that I put on the saw and used my dremel to grind the chain like some of you guys suggested to try to get rid of the rock damage you pointed out. I took my time and and the chain felt sharp, knowing that I'll be discarding this chain and the drum/sprocket when my new ones arrive in a few days. Well, it made a huge difference and it cut well through the oak, even up to 15"-16" in diameter. It was throwing off big chips and the clutch didn't slip at all, just as you suggested it would if the chain was sharp. So, I think when I get the new drum and new chain, new filter and start paying a whole lot more attention to keeping the chain sharp, the saw will still have some life in it. I'd like to get a more powerful, pro saw that can handle a 24" bar, but I sure want to have my act more together with using and maintaining one properly before I buy one. I'm going to use my little 029 to try to get my sharpening chops refined and consistent because from what everyone has been saying, that seems to be the key to everything else working correctly and not damaging the saw. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

Here's the air filter

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

Wow, @15 years or more!

Well, there were some years where it barely got used at all.

 

[SteveSr]

I'm not far from Brier Creek and I have couple of little Deere tractors and know Quality Equipment in Durham....about 20 minutes away. They do sell Stihl parts, but I did not know you can get better pricing from them.

Stihl dealers are allowed to set their own parts pricing markups so it pays to shop around. It also has to do with the Sthil Distributor, Mid-Atlantic Stihl, which seems to have some of the higher markups in the country. Other regions (and distributors) like Ohio are considerably cheaper on parts.

BTW, make sure that you show that clutch bearing a little TLC with some grease. One running surface is the crankshaft. If you gall that due to no lubrication then the saw is toast!

 

[ammoaddict]

I'm not far from Brier Creek and I have couple of little Deere tractors and know Quality Equipment in Durham....about 20 minutes away. They do sell Stihl parts, but I did not know you can get better pricing from them. Attached is the filter I have coming. It is an aftermarket part (attached) but it looks closer to an OEM part than the ones I saw on Amazon. If it's junk, I'll try to find one of those tune-up kits locally.

So, this afternoon, I cleaned my old filter and am letting it dry. I had an old filter that I put on the saw and used my dremel to grind the chain like some of you guys suggested to try to get rid of the rock damage you pointed out. I took my time and and the chain felt sharp, knowing that I'll be discarding this chain and the drum/sprocket when my new ones arrive in a few days. Well, it made a huge difference and it cut well through the oak, even up to 15"-16" in diameter. It was throwing off big chips and the clutch didn't slip at all, just as you suggested it would if the chain was sharp. So, I think when I get the new drum and new chain, new filter and start paying a whole lot more attention to keeping the chain sharp, the saw will still have some life in it. I'd like to get a more powerful, pro saw that can handle a 24" bar, but I sure want to have my act more together with using and maintaining one properly before I buy one. I'm going to use my little 029 to try to get my sharpening chops refined and consistent because from what everyone has been saying, that seems to be the key to everything else working correctly and not damaging the saw. Thanks again for all the help!

Good job. You can learn alot from these guys. Just be careful. Chainsaws are addictive. Hang out here long and you will have several more saws before you know it.

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[JEG in Raleigh]

Stihl dealers are allowed to set their own parts pricing markups so it pays to shop around. It also has to do with the Sthil Distributor, Mid-Atlantic Stihl, which seems to have some of the higher markups in the country. Other regions (and distributors) like Ohio are considerably cheaper on parts.

BTW, make sure that you show that clutch bearing a little TLC with some grease. One running surface is the crankshaft. If you gall that due to no lubrication then the saw is toast!

Should I use white lithium grease on the bearing? How often should I pop the hub and lubricate that?


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[HarleyT]

Some guys here grease theirs daily, but just put a dab on when you put on the new sprocket and don't worry about it.

 

[ammoaddict]

Should I use white lithium grease on the bearing? How often should I pop the hub and lubricate that?


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I use regular EP2 grease, like I grease my tractor and everything else with. If you have a tub of wheel bearing grease that would work to. I wouldn't buy a special grease for it. Just use what you have. I grease mine periodically when I take the bar off for cleaning. My saws with inboard clutches get greased alot more often than the outboard clutch ones.

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[Modifiedmark]

Just to say it again why I suggest getting the Oregon rim and drum setup for these. I have a 029 here I'm fixing for someone and it had a wore out rim on it.

I went to the closest Stihl dealer yesterday while I had to go that way anyway to pick one up and of course they didn't have one in stock. So now I got to make a special trip back there Friday to get it, that is if they get it by then.

They say they stock them but were out because a bunch of guys are cutting wood while there off now. Said they keep two in stock most the time. Haha

 

[SteveSr]

Just to say it again why I suggest getting the Oregon rim and drum setup for these. I have a 029 here I'm fixing for someone and it had a wore out rim on it.

I went to the closest Stihl dealer yesterday while I had to go that way anyway to pick one up and of course they didn't have one in stock. So now I got to make a special trip back there Friday to get it, that is if they get it by then.

They say they stock them but were out because a bunch of guys are cutting wood while there off now. Said they keep two in stock most the time. Haha

So you must have a local source for Oregon parts? Around here all of the saw shops are Stihl and don't carry anything Oregon. About all I have seen is a Big Box that may carry a few Oregon consumer bars & chains.

 

[Modifiedmark]

So you must have a local source for Oregon parts? Around here all of the saw shops are Stihl and don't carry anything Oregon. About all I have seen is a Big Box that may carry a few Oregon consumer bars & chains.

Almost any other shop will have the Oregon style rims. They might not say Oregon on them but Echo, Husqvarna, Makita etc all use the same size rims as the Oregon rims. Pretty much industry standard now. Stihl just does there own thing to drive customers back to there dealers.

Thats ok but when they do that I expect them to make sure there dealers actually have a sufficient number of items in stock, especially consumables.

Idk, maybe I'm just weird like that.

 

[HarleyT]

Just get an account with certain distributors, just tell them that you have a shop at home and work on saws and mowers. They will set you up as a dealer without a tax number, they will charge you tax, but treat you like any other dealer.

 

[Modifiedmark]

So I went to pick up that 029 sprocket today. It had been a while since I had to buy one of these and remember them being higher then others but I want one of you Stihl guys to explain or defend this to me. Don't give me any of that "they will last twice as long because there Stihl" bulls**t either, because they wont.
SteveSr you were suggesting just buying the Sthil over Oregon sprocket, tell me again why.
Look at the second line down, and see the 5% off I got too.

 

[67L36Driver]

Mark I get sprocket or rim drive drums from my favorite Stihl dealer for $15. Seems no matter what model saw but always $15.

Except MS880. Them mofos are past $30 because it’s ordered in special.