stihl 032av ignition

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IMG_20150424_151100482.jpg Just did an electronic ignition conversion on this lil' guy last weekend. $21 STIHL module and a few minutes time. Runs like a champ again.
 
Try it with the meter on the low ohms setting for the primary and a higher setting for the secondary so it'll give a more accurate reading. If you can unhook the triggering module while you're testing it would be helpful also.

I did as you said and I did get readings through the coil and I even checked the trigger when it was unhooked and got a reading through that, I have ordered a new universal trigger like the Oregon so I hope that do the trick? on another note I have just picked up a stihl 08s chainsaw in good running order complete with all the necessary attachments to make it into a disc saw for £50 and the guy had a bunch of old classic 50's/60's saws covered in an 1/8th dust, including an ancient Clinton, mcculloch 250?, danarm 110 automatic minus pull cord mechanism/cover, dan-arm 8ff x 2? an ancient massive stihl electric saw, jubu, and stihl 07 all for a further £50 and all have bars and chains ;o) I haven't picked them up yet as I need to make more room in the kitchen ;o) (joke) but I think it was a good deal so some will be getting passed on to serious collectors, and hope to upload photos in the next few weeks.
 
I mean, "What brand"? They do not all work on the same units. I only recommended the Oregon one because I have used it several times on 032s, but it won't work on an 031.
And also, on some units, you have to reverse the polarity, which makes having the 2 spade terminals nice.
 
I mean, "What brand"? They do not all work on the same units. I only recommended the Oregon one because I have used it several times on 032s, but it won't work on an 031.
And also, on some units, you have to reverse the polarity, which makes having the 2 spade terminals nice.
I mean, "What brand"? They do not all work on the same units. I only recommended the Oregon one because I have used it several times on 032s, but it won't work on an 031.
And also, on some units, you have to reverse the polarity, which makes having the 2 spade terminals nice.
its for an 032 ;o)
 
Check continuity from ground to the end of the spark plug wire for the secondary, should be a few thousand ohms and from ground to the input wire on the coil with the kill switch turned on. If you turn it off it will ground the primary and you get -0- ohms. It has no polarity so it doesn't matter which meter lead you use for continuity on this..

up and running again for £11.00
 
Looks like I'm gonna have to take some of my own advice. I just took in a Stihl 031AV that doesn't look too bad but doesn't have any spark. I'll start with checking the continuity of the coil, if it's okay I'll next move on to the points and see if they need cleaned and set. If that doesn't get it then I'll put a WIMA capacitor in it to replace the stock condenser. If this all fails then I'll check the wiring and maybe go with a Nova II chip.
 
Looks like I'm gonna have to take some of my own advice. I just took in a Stihl 031AV that doesn't look too bad but doesn't have any spark. I'll start with checking the continuity of the coil, if it's okay I'll next move on to the points and see if they need cleaned and set. If that doesn't get it then I'll put a WIMA capacitor in it to replace the stock condenser. If this all fails then I'll check the wiring and maybe go with a Nova II chip.


this iwhat I used and I was wrong about the price too;o) it was less than £11, works a treat.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140985383145?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
I have also used an old module off of a Shindaiwa T25 trimmer, but that is another thread........
the beauty about the one I fitted is that it screwed directly to the original mounting hole thus I only had to fit a female spade electrical connector to the original trigger wire. happy days ;o)
 
The 031 I'm starting on is a mess, looks like it's gonna need more than ignition. I see at least 3 AV bushings needing replaced, fuel lines look bad and probably much more. I'll probably work on this a bit at a time. The bar on it looks to be solid rust and so's the chain so I'll check all the flea markets next weekend..
 
Well, I guess I got lucky in the ignition part anyway. Checked the points and they looked kinda rough so I got some 400 sandpaper and cleaned them up a bit. Put the flywheel back on and it has spark! Now all I need to do is find all the rest of the parts it needs. Spark plug wire, AV mounts, bar and chain and maybe a good cleanup.
 
Well, I guess I got lucky in the ignition part anyway. Checked the points and they looked kinda rough so I got some 400 sandpaper and cleaned them up a bit. Put the flywheel back on and it has spark! Now all I need to do is find all the rest of the parts it needs. Spark plug wire, AV mounts, bar and chain and maybe a good cleanup.

I don't think the av mounts will be cheep? they not cheep over here in the u.k anyway.
 
I don't think the av mounts will be cheep? they not cheep over here in the u.k anyway.
They're not cheap over here either. I actually just needed one on the rear handle and I rebuilt the one on the handlebar. Turns out I didn't get it right in the running part like I thought. It indeed has spark and compression but I put a small amount of mix into the cylinder, gave it a pull and it wouldn't hit a lick. Looks to me like the timing may be off. I checked the crank key and it was intact. I'll re-check the points setting and the flywheel gap and while I'm in there I may replace the condenser and give it another whirl. I'm sure there is a modern module that will fit this saw but I haven't done any research in this area.
 
They're not cheap over here either. I actually just needed one on the rear handle and I rebuilt the one on the handlebar. Turns out I didn't get it right in the running part like I thought. It indeed has spark and compression but I put a small amount of mix into the cylinder, gave it a pull and it wouldn't hit a lick. Looks to me like the timing may be off. I checked the crank key and it was intact. I'll re-check the points setting and the flywheel gap and while I'm in there I may replace the condenser and give it another whirl. I'm sure there is a modern module that will fit this saw but I haven't done any research in this area.


if you can get the points timing right then all go and well, but here's the link bellow for the very same module I used on the 032av, it worked out at around £9 u.k pounds so I would expect around $13 US dollars? what have you to loose? it may well be cheaper to buy a broken donor saw with good av mounts at your local flee markets online auctions etc then to buy new buffers?
 
It's also possible it could have an open condenser. With a shorted one it wouldn't have fire at all, I think it might have fire with an open condenser but it might be out of time. Too bad I don't have a tester..digital ohm meters don't help much here, might show if it was completely shorted or open though..
 
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