stihl 032av ignition

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It's also possible it could have an open condenser. With a shorted one it wouldn't have fire at all, I think it might have fire with an open condenser but it might be out of time. Too bad I don't have a tester..digital ohm meters don't help much here, might show if it was completely shorted or open though..

I used an old British telecom metre with a needle
 
Looks like I'm gonna have to take some of my own advice. I just took in a Stihl 031AV that doesn't look too bad but doesn't have any spark. I'll start with checking the continuity of the coil, if it's okay I'll next move on to the points and see if they need cleaned and set. If that doesn't get it then I'll put a WIMA capacitor in it to replace the stock condenser. If this all fails then I'll check the wiring and maybe go with a Nova II chip.



thought I would let you know that the module I used on the 032 also works on the sachs dolmar 120 ;o) just in case someone on the site is having trouble ;o)
 
Actually, I ended up skipping a few steps and went to my local mower shop and bought a Stens points replacement module, reversed the wires polarity and it runs great! I previously cleaned the points and got a spark but it must have not been in time so I gave up on the points and installed the module. About $20.
 
Actually, I ended up skipping a few steps and went to my local mower shop and bought a Stens points replacement module, reversed the wires polarity and it runs great! I previously cleaned the points and got a spark but it must have not been in time so I gave up on the points and installed the module. About $20.

excellent news ;o)
 
It's also possible it could have an open condenser. With a shorted one it wouldn't have fire at all, I think it might have fire with an open condenser but it might be out of time. Too bad I don't have a tester..digital ohm meters don't help much here, might show if it was completely shorted or open though..

Here's an open from an 032 I found a few months ago. Ran like **** before the replacement with a new cap, but it did run. Those testers are cheap & work great on HVAC units too. :envy:
 

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Here's an open from an 032 I found a few months ago. Ran like **** before the replacement with a new cap, but it did run. Those testers are cheap & work great on HVAC units too. :envy:
I've got several ohm meters, used to be in the tv business. I was referring to a capacitance tester, too expensive for my little shop. We used to use these testers in the factory to check purchased capacitors to be installed in televisions.
 
Here's an open from an 032 I found a few months ago. Ran like **** before the replacement with a new cap, but it did run. Those testers are cheap & work great on HVAC units too. :envy:


heres my old lass ;o)
 

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Ours wasn't a portable ohms tester, you plugged the capacitor into it and it gave a reading of the capacitance of the unit. It told how many microfarads the capacitor was against what it said it was. Regardless of what it is I replaced my condenser with the chip and seemed to solve the problem, at least for now.
 
All Pics 094.JPG All Pics 095.JPG OK my turn at this. I have a 032AV with electronic ignition, runs bad quits after it gets hot, restarts after it cools down. I'm thinking it is trigger module.
Will same Oregon module work? Flywheel has two magnets. Here is some pics don't know they came out on top. Thanks
 
I've never tried a Oregon module or any other on an electronic ignition saw. The closest thing to that that I have done is remove the electronic ignition and put a points coil on it then used the module. Problem with that is that sometimes the flywheel is different and you may have to change it also, but sometimes not..
 
View attachment 458844 View attachment 458845 OK my turn at this. I have a 032AV with electronic ignition, runs bad quits after it gets hot, restarts after it cools down. I'm thinking it is trigger module.
Will same Oregon module work? Flywheel has two magnets. Here is some pics don't know they came out on top. Thanks
that so8unds like an ignition coil failure to me, I'm not sure if a failing trigger would do that, I think they either work or they don't? but I'm sure more experienced practitioners will know. the trigger I used looked like the Oregon being chrome, self grounding, with one spade fitting think it was a SIG and was cheep as chips on ebay from Thailand I think? link below ;o)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140985383145?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
View attachment 458844 View attachment 458845 OK my turn at this. I have a 032AV with electronic ignition, runs bad quits after it gets hot, restarts after it cools down. I'm thinking it is trigger module.
Will same Oregon module work? Flywheel has two magnets. Here is some pics don't know they came out on top. Thanks

That chocolate donut was replaced with the trigger Stihl #1118 400 1001 which mounts outside of the flywheel, not under it.

The donuts do often fail because of the heat trapped under the flywheel as there is no air flow. However, it does sound like the coil itself may be on its last leg. You can test the primary and secondary resistances on that type of coil with an ohmmeter, after preheating the coil up to 200F in an oven to check if it is failing.

Don't spend good money on the Taiwan junk, get the OEM Stihl part or an equivalent VEC brand trigger.
 
1118 400 1001 was for the 028, 030, 031

Can you put up a pic of the back side of that flywheel?

Also, take a photo of the wires/coil etc., of the area under the flywheel.
 
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