stihl 039 rebuild

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put it together again and now it is leaking out the bottom around the screw heads.I am about ready to scrap the motoseal and try the dirko.It squished out around the cases good .I can not believe it's leaking through the threads.
try Loctite on the threads buddy ;o)
 
There were no washers under the screw heads originally.The stihl bolts have the ridges under the caps to help lock into the plastic
 
The dirko is ordered.It is coming from germany.I sure hope this works.This will be the 4th clean up and put back together.Trying to seal.It has been a royal pita.It should have been a simple deal
 
The dirko is ordered.It is coming from germany.I sure hope this works.This will be the 4th clean up and put back together.Trying to seal.It has been a royal pita.It should have been a simple deal
when you seal it, don't turn the engine over or pressure test until after 2-3 days, giving the sealant a little more time to cure. and see if that makes a difference ? CD you could also try putting some under your screw caps when tightening down to ensure a seal ? CD
 
Did you fit and torque the clamshell immediately after applying the sealant or let them get good and tacky before fitting them together. This is one task I take my time with. I'll snug it up but let it sit a little longer before I torque it down.
 
when you seal it, don't turn the engine over or pressure test until after 2-3 days, giving the sealant a little more time to cure. and see if that makes a difference ? CD you could also try putting some under your screw caps when tightening down to ensure a seal ? CD
I’ve put dozens of saws together with a permatex product called the Right Stuff, no waiting for set up time, always works.:cool:
 
I’ve put dozens of saws together with a permatex product called the Right Stuff, no waiting for set up time, always works.:cool:
well he is obviously having problems with it setting for one reason or another? otherwise it wouldn't bubble under pressure, even after 24 hours . CD
 
I've had issues with leaks around the bolts on this series. I now spread some Motoseal around the bolts when I install them. Also, in almost every case, I assemble these engines outside the saw, let them sit overnight and pressure test before installation.
 
The directions on the motoseal state/let dry one minute and then assemble/how do you assemble outside the saw.The bolts that hold the belly pan and cylinder together come up through the bottom of the saw housing.The motoseal is quite runny when you apply it.Messy in fact.
 
The directions on the motoseal state/let dry one minute and then assemble/how do you assemble outside the saw.The bolts that hold the belly pan and cylinder together come up through the bottom of the saw housing.The motoseal is quite runny when you apply it.Messy in fact.
Assemble the engine with it out of the case. Use bushings/spacers on the bolts or use shorter bolts. Let sit overnight. After pressure testing, carefully remove the bolts and fit the engine inside the engine housing. Then put sealant around the bolts and insert them from the outside. snug these down a bit before installing the bar stud so as not to loosen the pan in the process. Once the stud is in position, torque the 4 engine bolts and then tighten down the stud.
The Motoseal shouldn't be runny. Mine is always about like toothpaste consistency. It shouldn't really flow to any extent.
 
Also, make sure you don't get sealant in the impulse nipple. It's easy to do and you'll have a saw that won't run if it happens. I must have read that in a book somewhere....
 
The permatex motoseal that I have been using does not have the consistency of toothpaste at all.It flows after you apply it.It is runny.It will spread itself.
 
This might help someone down the road.I plugged the carb boot with a hose clamp and a piece of pipe with a pipe plug sealing the end
 

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