Stihl 041 or Echo cs-590

[Travis041]

Yea I am never getting rid of my old saw.
Father in law just likes to borrow it all the time.
And you know how it is, when you don't have a tool when you need it.
The new saw is for cutting out in the woods.
The old saw is for around the house and ranch.

Thank you guys for your help.

 

[hardpan]

Brad does a fine job teaching how to tune here. Worth a close read.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/video-how-to-tune-a-chainsaw.113538/

 

[Travis041]

Funny thing is I was going to relax today. I have work tomorrow.
But I had to drop a few trees on my property lol.
Before I did, I let my new chainsaw warm up and tried my hand at tuning it.
Before I saw you post, hardpan.

Tell me if the way I did it sounds right.
First thing, I popped the limiter caps out. Frustrated me I couldn't see the screw heads.
Then I adjusted the L, CCW until it was running to rich and then back till it was running smoother.
Then I adjusted the T, CW until the chain started spinning and then back until it stopped.
Then I adjusted the H, CCW until it ran way to rich and holding the throttle down adjusted it back until it just starts to smooth out.
It took me a bit but I got it where is wasn't hesitating and wasn't to rich or lean.

I then fell and bucked up my trees and it seemed like it ran awesome. I compared it to my old saw and it peaks and idles the same.
Just got done watching the video and that is basically what I did.

I shouldn't have any problems as long as I keep the H Just on this side of rich and it is running good right?
Never tuned a saw. So any videos, advice, etc is appreciated.

 

[hardpan]

You should have it 4 stroking a little when ran wide open and out of the cut. As soon as you apply a load (cutting) it should stop the 4 stroking, and then start again when lifted, etc. Now if you have a limited coil it may come into play about the same time and sound similar to 4 stroking. Some people like to run a little richer than others. Brad and others here have already forgotten more than I will ever know about the illusive 2 stroke engine. Your "L", "T", and "H" adjustments sound good to me.

 

[CTYank]

Funny thing is I was going to relax today. I have work tomorrow.
But I had to drop a few trees on my property lol.
Before I did, I let my new chainsaw warm up and tried my hand at tuning it.
Before I saw you post, hardpan.

Tell me if the way I did it sounds right.
First thing, I popped the limiter caps out. Frustrated me I couldn't see the screw heads.
Then I adjusted the L, CCW until it was running to rich and then back till it was running smoother.
Then I adjusted the T, CW until the chain started spinning and then back until it stopped.
Then I adjusted the H, CCW until it ran way to rich and holding the throttle down adjusted it back until it just starts to smooth out.
It took me a bit but I got it where is wasn't hesitating and wasn't to rich or lean.

I then fell and bucked up my trees and it seemed like it ran awesome. I compared it to my old saw and it peaks and idles the same.
Just got done watching the video and that is basically what I did.

I shouldn't have any problems as long as I keep the H Just on this side of rich and it is running good right?
Never tuned a saw. So any videos, advice, etc is appreciated.

Nooooooo! H adjustment with no load, as it seems you did, can kill it quickly, by means of lean mixture UNDER LOAD and mechanical torture, screaming unloaded. If h is misadjusted lean, engine can sound really great, up to the point when it croaks. Poof!

Running it @WOT unloaded, it should sound like it has asthma, not "smooth".

You want the mixture right @WOT under load. Anything else re H adjustment- ignore it.

It's so easy to destroy an engine, I'd suggest you find someone nearby who understands 2-stroke carb adjustment, and can walk you through it. Maybe even a dealer who won't get his undies in a knot about doing it right.

 

[Travis041]

Just got off the phone with our local Jerrys outdoor and they said they would adjust it for free.
And I didn't even buy it there.
So I am going to take it in and have them double check it for me.
They will put a tack meter on it. And they work with chainsaws a bunch there, so should be good.
I am curious how close I am. Either way Better safe than sorry right.

 

[zogger]

Just got off the phone with our local Jerrys outdoor and they said they would adjust it for free.
And I didn't even buy it there.
So I am going to take it in and have them double check it for me.
They will put a tack meter on it. And they work with chainsaws a bunch there, so should be good.
I am curious how close I am. Either way Better safe than sorry right.

Can't hurt

Maybe a little rich/slower for breakin?

I have crappy ears, I would bet most of my saws are too rich..paranoid about too lean.

 

[CTYank]

Just got off the phone with our local Jerrys outdoor and they said they would adjust it for free.
And I didn't even buy it there.
So I am going to take it in and have them double check it for me.
They will put a tack meter on it. And they work with chainsaws a bunch there, so should be good.
I am curious how close I am. Either way Better safe than sorry right.

Just note that a tachometer will get you a crude (or very crude) approximation of what will work best. A kludge IOW.
BTDT. IME "tach tuners" typically adjust H mixture grossly rich, and get kinda puckered up at any suggestion of a better way.

About the excess fuel & oil problem. The excess fuel & oil contributes to deposits in bad places: combustion chamber, exh. port, muffler, spark-arrester screen. It's not true that more is better, far from it. Dead-on is dead-on; that's what AutoTune is all about, for one thing.

When it's done right, with engine warmed up, running @WOT under load, you'll hear a clear single-note song from the engine- 2-stroking.
When you lift a bit, all else staying the same, the exhaust not will go a bit asthmatic- 4-stroking. The only way to get it right is under load, in the cut. The tach bit just makes it quick & simple. Just not very good. Sorry about that, but it's a valuable skill to acquire.

 

[Travis041]

I took the saw in and the guy didn't use a tach. Like I thought they would.
He just used his ears. He said he has been doing this for over 30 years.
He told me that I had it to rich. Nice guys there.

 

[Ronaldo]

Did he tune it in wood and were you able to watch and listen, so as to learn his method?

 

[sb47]

Stihl has more dealers and parts and service is easier to find.
Never used an Echo.
I've never been disappointed in any stihl I have ever bought.

 

[svk]

A friend of mine just bought a 590 and is absolutely thrilled with it. I'll have to pass on the tuning information to him to be sure he's not running to lean from the factory.

 

[sb47]

A friend of mine just bought a 590 and is absolutely thrilled with it. I'll have to pass on the tuning information to him to be sure he's not running to lean from the factory.

For me the whole idea of paying a premium price for a saw is so I can gas it up and cut with it.
Not take it in and have it adjusted before I even run it.

 

[Ronaldo]

For me the whole idea of paying a premium price for a saw is so I can gas it up and cut with it.
Not take it in and have it adjusted before I even run it.

For the most part, they ALL need this done. At least all can benefit from a good tuning.......

 

[zogger]

For me the whole idea of paying a premium price for a saw is so I can gas it up and cut with it.
Not take it in and have it adjusted before I even run it.

Well, that first run is called dealer set up. I think most dealers fuel it up, run it, and make sure it is OK. If you get from a box store or online, you have to do it.

 

[sb47]

For the most part, they ALL need this done. At least all can benefit from a good tuning.......

I was there when they did the first start up at the dealer.
All they did was gas it up and start it. They made no adjustments at all.
All five saws I have bought were never adjusted and they all run great.
But I guess that a sthil for ya.

 

[Travis041]

The Newer Stihl chainsaws have computer chips in them to adjust the air fuel mixture, in all but one model in the Stihls current line up. I believe.