stihl 044 10mm project

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Steven Trexler

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Starting to restore my 10mm 044 and noticed that recoil starter uses smaller screws on this case. I have some pictures showing the difference. Anyone else run into this with 10mm 044. Also did they make a recoil starter with smaller screw holes so there would be not play around the screws. If any of you guys have one with smaller holes laying around and would want to sell it that would be awesome. The metal parts are about to ship out to the powder coater so would like to have the right recoil coated instead of one they doesn't quite fit right.
 

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Pictures of the project.
 

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That's what I figured not really something I want to even attempt to get off ebay cause I know I'd just end up getting the wrong one.
 
I have 2 10 mms, one with each size screws. Not sure if it corresponds with the Elastostart, but the newer one also has that.

I doubt it it will move after U tighten it down, U may want to check it that way.
 
The recoil starter I have also has a slight crack so I was going to replace anyways because I wasn't sure the power coat would cover the crack. I actually have a runner 10mm also and it has the bigger screws.
 
I may have one , there is no correlation with elastostarts , i think its just one of those dumb things stihl changed to complicate things i think they should have been 5mm from the get go..ill PM you later
 
Hello. I bought an 044 and didn’t realize it was a 10mm until I got it home. I wanted to run it so I ordered up a HD2 air filter, a new impulse line and an ethanol resistant fuel line and an OEM dual port muffler cover. I went to throw these parts on the saw and I soon realized my saw was ALL original and in incredible shape. It felt like a bad idea to alter the saw in any way or to run it. Is my saw more valuable in 100% stock form?
 

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As Brad said, very nice saw. I would not do any mods that can not be undone, that said, if you are going to use it, they run fantastic with a few mods. My 10 mm was purchase new in 12/92 and is one of my favorite saws, and one of the few I have not had ported. The Red Lever 10 mms are my favorites, most have KS jugs + pistons (minor differences). The early 10 mm saws had Black Control Levers. Some of the early 12 mm saws also had Red Levers, then they went back to Black.

Mine has HD-2 filter, muff mod, timing advance and base gasket delete. I use my saw on a regular basis. If you are just a collector, that is different.

They are likely the lightest and best performing unported 70 cc saws made (Ported 372s are generally stronger).
 
Very nice leave it as is if you never plan on using it but if you plan on using it I'd change all the hoses and intake boot.
 
What changed my mind is when I removed the muffler and I discovered that there was no cooling plate. My dealer tried telling me that it came with one and I researched it and discovered that the early models did NOT have them. I almost bought one and upgraded it but soon realized that the plate was 1mm thick thus I would have to add spacers to the lower muffler bolts to bring it out 1mm. This would be easy to do but this is when I decided put the saw back together and leave it 100% stock. The saw isn't in mint condition but its just a click or two down from that.
 
The early ones did not have cooling plates because the mufflers were properly vented so it did not need them. I removed the one from my 440 after I opened the muffler up. My 044 has never had one, and it still runs great.

If I were going to use it, I would mod it, but keep the orig parts to put it back to OEM if you wish. It should run great as is, but even better with a few mods.
 

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