Stihl 044 questions

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freeasaburt

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A friend of mine recently bought a pretty beat up 044, I had a quick look at it and started it, needs tuning but seems generally ok. Compression was definitely not massive, really easy to pull... but maybe in spec, i basically have no idea :) . First time I touch a 044. There's no decomp, no idea if some had it.

It's a saw from around 1991 according to the s/n (and the site i used to look it up), with a 10mm wrist pin - if unmodified.
The starter recoil cover has a hole on the bottom and needs replacement, doesn't seem too urgent though.

I promised to help him to get it in a somewhat better condition, we're definitely gonna have to partially disassemble it to clean and check things, but here's some questions I already have...

The (red) lever did not switch to the 'run' position (from high idle) when i pulled the trigger, but the lever could be moved manually and then the saw ran normally, except the carb tuning. It might be just dirt, but is this a common issue/are there specific things to check?

The felling (bumper, bucking, or whatever they're called) spikes are not of the same length, the left one is way shorter. I have no idea how long the original ones are but was maybe thinking about aftermarket ones, or oem ones from a bigger model (and a long enough bar). I saw the ones of the MS661R (full wrap handle model) mentioned, they do look nice with the cutouts... Does anyone know the Stihl s/n?
Any other aftermarket recommendations, but preferably not from a custom shop in the States, as shipping costs would probably be ridiculous?
I found these in Germany, seems more like a 'drop shipper' of Chinese stuff. Kinda fancy, but not sure if they are actually useful...
https://shop.saegenspezi.de/Saegenspezi-bumper-spike-fits-Stihl-044-MS440-MS-440
 
Very good saw. KS or Mahle cylinder?

Assuming that you want to make it right, consider a new piston ring (or piston and ring, they're cheap), new seals, and a general freshening-up of the fuel system parts. Compression should be pretty stout if it is in good shape.

If you're feeling ambitious, check the squish clearance without a cylinder base gasket. If it is adequate, these saws seem to me to run notably stronger without the base gasket, even without any further porting or restoring of the lost exhaust duration due to the gasket delete. I had (but foolishly sold) a stock 10mm KS saw without base gasket that was astoundingly strong. Plan on adding the ElastoStart handle if you go this route!
 
I didn't take a look at the cylinder yet, and also have no idea how to check if it's Mahle or KS? Are there markings to check for, maybe?

I don't know enough about saws to start porting, although I understand the principles, a timing wheel, etc. I watch a lot of youtube, Tinman's stuff, etc. Cool, but I think a lot of people would agree a non-ported 044 is already a pretty neat saw by itself.

My main 'objective' here is to check what's there, what might have been replaced, clean/replace things, put the carb in ultrasonic at least, and see what it does in the wood when put back together. Then, maybe, some exhaust work, depending on the 'exit' size and the internals of the exhaust (which might be original and thus, as far as i know, just an 'empty box'?).

I have an 064 btw, with a 660 cyl. Bought it like that, the guy I bought it from drop started it like nothing, still haven't found the proper 'pull' myself though. Decomp hole was plugged, put an (oem) valve in it but it doesn't help that much, you just have to do it right. Pull it not 'briskly' enough and the thing shows an enthusiastic ambition to pull your hand off. Might try an elastostart handle on it, but that's not going to make a huge difference either i think... I get to start it eventually, but it takes quite some tries, and I know it's not the saw.
 
Also, if I see scoring or anything else suspcious when I take the exhaust off, that's obviously something we're gonna look into. If only the piston and rings need to be replaced, I would check with my local Stihl dealer and see what the cost is. If the cylinder needs replacing, it's probably going to be an aftermarket one, probably hyway if available.
Anyway, gotta meet up with him again first. He's usually under one of his cars somewhere, and not available, doing his thing. The internet is more my thing, I guess, looking for information etc.. I might as well ask him to buy it from him, at some point... I've been missing a good running 70cc in my line up. For him, it's only the next engine is his filled-to-the-brim warehouse/workshop of internal combustion awesomess :)
 
Also, if I see scoring or anything else suspcious when I take the exhaust off, that's obviously something we're gonna look into. If only the piston and rings need to be replaced, I would check with my local Stihl dealer and see what the cost is. If the cylinder needs replacing, it's probably going to be an aftermarket one, probably hyway if available.
Anyway, gotta meet up with him again first. He's usually under one of his cars somewhere, and not available, doing his thing. The internet is more my thing, I guess, looking for information etc.. I might as well ask him to buy it from him, at some point... I've been missing a good running 70cc in my line up. For him, it's only the next engine is his filled-to-the-brim warehouse/workshop of internal combustion awesomess :)

If the piston needs to be replaced, you'll likely need to remove any aluminum transfer from the cylinder walls. I usually use muriatic acid. Plenty of information out there.

What other internal combustion awesomeness does he have?
 
I don't know enough about cars, motorcycles or mopeds, but he has loads of those three to start with, including a lot of American stuff. Some comes in to be repaired and sold, some stays... Doesn't matter if it's Volkswagen or Cadillac, Suzuki or GMC, always something cool to see there. It's like a crossover between a workshop and a museum.
 

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