Stihl 056 problem

[scallywag]

Jim, I would say hotshots advice in post #17 is right on the money. If your saw is blowing 'white' smoke then it is probably sucking bar oil and it is time for a leak test. I have posted up a pic of an 056 crankcase to show the proximity of the oil tank to the actual crank housing.

If the saw is sucking bar oil, don't run the saw with no bar oil as this will lean the saw out,.....not good!


Hypothetically, if your saw is sucking bar oil and is blowing "white" smoke, if you were to fill the bar oil tank with straight two stroke oil you would think it would belch excessive amounts of "blue" smoke?

 

[mcguirejohnson]

40:1 mix is what the owners manual calls for.

The fuel line & outlet sits real low towards the bottom of the tank on an 045/056 saw, and the line could still have a tear in it,
letting the gas bypass the fuel filter at the end, and repeatedly plugging the carb's mesh screen. I assume you put on a new fuel filter or replaced the foam insert, because the old foam replacement type filter degrades over time and re-plugs the mesh screen up fast.

Also, a pressure test will tell you if the heavy layer of carbon in the exhaust port is coming from bar oil, from
the oil tank. The oil tank shares a common gasket with the engine crankcase on that saw (and most others), and
bar oil could be getting sucked over into the crankcase. I'd check the 7-8 crankcase bolts for proper torque too.

A lot of times, you can smell that bar oil burning in the exhaust fumes, smells like the exhaust from an oil refinery
stack and nothing like a 2-cycle boat or weed eater exhaust.

Man...I completely overlooked your post. I did change the fuel filter. I was premature on my comment above about the carb being clogged again. It performed the same as the earlier posts, so I assumed. It actually ended up being a fouled plug. I've done pressure testing on my old stand up jet ski and dirt bikes (2 strokes) which I had to create a block off plate for the intake/exhaust. Is this a similar process with the saw? Or should I take the cylinder and case to a Stihl shop and let them do it? My other thought is to just replace the seal/gasket when I do a top end. with the lower compression, I plan on doing this after I get a few more loads of wood. They are widening a section of highway not too far from my house and I have limited time to get wood since they are grinding it daily. I really appreciate everyone's feedback.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Any suggestions on how to get this mount off

View attachment 282011

I'm breaking down the 056 and I'm stuck on getting the gas tank off. Any suggestions on how to get this rubber mount off? The book shows it as a bolt without the rubber mount. The rubber peice seems to be fixed onto some type of bolt and I don't want to force it off and risk damaging it. Thanks,
Jim

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Jim, I would say hotshots advice in post #17 is right on the money. If your saw is blowing 'white' smoke then it is probably sucking bar oil and it is time for a leak test. I have posted up a pic of an 056 crankcase to show the proximity of the oil tank to the actual crank housing.

If the saw is sucking bar oil, don't run the saw with no bar oil as this will lean the saw out,.....not good!


Hypothetically, if your saw is sucking bar oil and is blowing "white" smoke, if you were to fill the bar oil tank with straight two stroke oil you would think it would belch excessive amounts of "blue" smoke?

Scallywag, I'm working on getting this saw apart, but can you help me understand where the gasket would be in this picture? Or will it be obvious when I get the motor exposed? thanks Jim

 

[scallywag]

View attachment 282011

I'm breaking down the 056 and I'm stuck on getting the gas tank off. Any suggestions on how to get this rubber mount off? The book shows it as a bolt without the rubber mount. The rubber peice seems to be fixed onto some type of bolt and I don't want to force it off and risk damaging it. Thanks,
Jim

The base of the mount has two flat edge's for your spanner, the gasket run's through the centre of the saw.......Ref to page 12 of your manual, pic #2 .

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Got the tank off

Ok. I figured out the mount. Thanks for that tip. on the crank, there is no movement up and down, but it does slide from side to side. Is this OK? Also, I got the clutch off and I'm into the plastic gears under the side cover. I don't think i'm too far off from here. I have to quit for the night (family commitmentments). Let me know if there are any tricks in getting the clutch side off.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[scallywag]

Ok. I figured out the mount. Thanks for that tip. on the crank, there is no movement up and down, but it does slide from side to side. Is this OK? Also, I got the clutch off and I'm into the plastic gears under the side cover. I don't think i'm too far off from here. I have to quit for the night (family commitmentments). Let me know if there are any tricks in getting the clutch side off.

Thanks,
Jim

Side to side movement is normal, check for movement (up & down ) at top and bottom of stroke, also when you have the saw pulled down, inspect the crankcase carefuly for cracks, how's the piston & cylinder?

 

[hotshot]

Disassembly sequence

Can't tell (if it's too late) from the picture, but don't pull the cylinder off until you removed the
clutch, flywheel, and then pressure test. You may not have to split the cases after all.

The crankcase gasket also cannot be seen, as it's buried inside the crankase, captured by the tank edge.

Pressure testing the engine is exactly like your jet skis & dirt bikes, make a blind for the exhaust port & plug the
carb boot with a rubber stopper & lock it in with a tywrap.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Side to side movement is normal, check for movement (up & down ) at top and bottom of stroke, also when you have the saw pulled down, inspect the crankcase carefuly for cracks, how's the piston & cylinder?

The piston and cylinder don't look too bad. You can feel a groove (almost like a bevel) in the lower section of the cylinder below the intake area. The lines in the piston are not too deep. You can feel them with a screwdriver, but they don't catch. After researching this forum, I figured out that breaking a case almost always requires some type of puller. I'm going to give this an attempt, but will most likely take the case to my local Stihl guy and let them break it open so I can replace the gasket. I've done a lot of two strokes (for a non professional), but I have not done too many crank cases. I'll post a pic of the piston and cylinder in a bit. Thanks.

 

[hotshot]

The piston and cylinder don't look too bad. You can feel a groove (almost like a bevel) in the lower section of the cylinder below the intake area. The lines in the piston are not too deep. You can feel them with a screwdriver, but they don't catch. After researching this forum, I figured out that breaking a case almost always requires some type of puller. I'm going to give this an attempt, but will most likely take the case to my local Stihl guy and let them break it open so I can replace the gasket. I've done a lot of two strokes (for a non professional), but I have not done too many crank cases. I'll post a pic of the piston and cylinder in a bit. Thanks.

Welp, I was only three minutes behind you on that post...looks like it's too late now for sure!

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Can't tell (if it's too late) from the picture, but don't pull the cylinder off until you removed the
clutch, flywheel, and then pressure test. You may not have to split the cases after all.

The crankcase gasket also cannot be seen, as it's buried inside the crankase, captured by the tank edge.

Pressure testing the engine is exactly like your jet skis & dirt bikes, make a blind for the exhaust port & plug the
carb boot with a rubber stopper & lock it in with a tywrap.

I did take the cylinder off, but can put it back on without any problems. The clutch is off, but have not taken the flywheel off. I'll look into this as well.

 

[hotshot]

Good to go

I did take the cylinder off, but can put it back on without any problems. The clutch is off, but have not taken the flywheel off. I'll look into this as well.

I'd pop it back on without rings, and pressure test it then. Pulling the flywheel also allows you to inspect & soap
test the shaft seal on that side, but they're normally OK. The PTO side is usually the leaker on the 045/056.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Need a good parts source for an 056

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get parts for an 056? I went to my local Stihl shop yesterday and learned the case gasket and top end kits are no longer available.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[scallywag]

Jim,
how's the hunt for part's going ?

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Jim,
how's the hunt for part's going ?

Well...I talked to a guy in Iowa (his name is Andy) and I believe the name of his shop is sister sales and service...He seemed very knowlegeable and to have some parts, but will not be in his shop until tomorrow. Also, been researching on line and the ebay shop named customechainsawparts seems to have a lot of stuff. The last one I've looked at (on line) is Chainsawr parts. From all the reviews I've read, Scott with Chainsawr is really good to work with, but inlooking at his website, did not seem to have what I need. My piston is a 52MM and I would like to find a top end kit to include a base gasket. Also, did a pressure test yesterday and the clutch side seal is leaking. I could not get any bubbles out of the oiler cap (cracked partially open). I could not get the flywheel ( do not have a puller), but figure I would replace that one if I'm going to crack the case open. So needless to say, I would like to find seals/bearings (if available) and a case gasket.. One question I have on the top end is are the different size jugs/pistons (54MM and 56MM) interchangable on my case? Thanks for your feedback.

 

[scallywag]

Hmm, i thought your saw was a magnum @56mm bore ? if it's 52mm then, no the magnum 56mm cylinder will not fit.