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Want to Buy Stihl 090

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David Hornor

Dances With Trees, I slobber my slabber knocker.
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
46
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15
Location
Shaver Lake, CA
I'm a collector of things.

I'ma hankering for a Stihl 090.

Currently Collected (for example)

Ropes and rigging: 1/2 ton in 12 carryalls.

Guns: more than a few. Prefer vintage long guns and modern handguns.

Tools: hundreds, if not a thousand.

Wives: on #4, my last!

Kids: 10. Oh, shields! No shirt!

Grandkids: 7

Saws: lost count

Chainsaws: maybe a dozen

I want to expand my collection of usable, trustworthy chainsaws.

I'm hankering for a Stihl 090.

What do I look for in one?

What are they worth?

What's a good year?

What do I want to avoid?

Where's a good place to find one?

What else do I need to know?
 
Hello David. Lots of opinions out there, and I'm happy to provide my $0.02 to help with your inquiries.

What do I look for in one?
Look for one that's complete and has the correct parts. Make sure it has a 66mm 090 cylinder and not a 58mm 070 cylinder. The quickest/easiest way to differentiate is looking at the top of the cylinder with the shroud removed (or, you can often tell by pulling the spark plug boot and shining in the gap between the shroud and cylinder with a flashlight). The long skinny piece of spring steel used for the decompression valve runs back-to-front on the 66mm cylinder and right-to-left on the 58mm cylinder.

Look for a six shoe 090 clutch and not a three shoe 070 clutch.

The correct 090 fan cover has 'straight' ribs where an 070 fan cover has curved/concave ribs.

Make sure it has a functioning wind vane governor located inside the flywheel housing and linked to the choke shutter on the carburetor.

Check that both the automatic and manual oiling functions work.

Now, excluding the fan cover, what I've noted above boils down to function not aesthetics. Depending on what your plans are for the saw, making some concessions on parts can save you money.

What are they worth?
This varies wildly based on the sub-model, condition, and source. A friend of mine just bought a standard 090 for the seller's asking price of $250, and a never-fueled late model 090AV recently reached bidding on ebay to $3,400 and didn't meet the seller's reserve. Both of those prices are well outside of the norm. If you want to know the high-end of the market search around for completed auctions on ebay and go down from there for a fair in-person sale.

What's a good year?
My understanding is that the 090 was manufactured from 1968-1984. Any year would be a good choice. The primary visual difference you'll find based on vintage is that the earlier saws had "Stihl" cast into the shroud and a sticker with the model number on the air filter cover whereas the later ones had metal tags for "Stihl" and the model number. Also, the later saws had "Stihl" cast into the clutch cover and the earlier ones did not.

What do I want to avoid?
There are a lot of knock-offs and aftermarket parts out there, so if that's a problem for you, you'll definitely want to do some research and keep a sharp eye when evaluating them.

Where's a good place to find one?
There are a lot of 090s out there, so if you're willing to take time to look and pay a fair price they aren't difficult to get your hands on. They're on ebay a lot, but that's obviously the high end of what you'll have to pay for one. You can always post a want-ad on forums as you have here. Outside of that, keep an eye on Craigslist. You're a little south of the hot zone, but the west coast is a good place to start looking!

What else do I need to know?
Be clear on whether you want to purchase a runner or a potential project. There are a lot of 090s that have been sitting around for many years untouched and need anywhere from a little to a lot of work to get back into running condition.

There are four basic types to look for. There is the standard 090, the gear-reduced 090G, the early 090AV, and the late 090AV. You'll be able to purchase a standard 090 for notably less than a G or late AV. The earlier AV generally brings just a little more than a standard 090.

On the standard 090 there were three types of handlebars. The most popular among buyers/collectors is the seven-bend full wrap. There is also a six-bend full wrap and a normal 'half' wrap.

Most of the 090s I've personally had with good top ends made right around 150 psi. A little lower isn't a huge problem, and given a stock setup saw you normally won't see too much higher.


Good luck with your search, and let us know if you have any questions.
 
Hello David. Lots of opinions out there, and I'm happy to provide my $0.02 to help with your inquiries.


Look for one that's complete and has the correct parts. Make sure it has a 66mm 090 cylinder and not a 58mm 070 cylinder. The quickest/easiest way to differentiate is looking at the top of the cylinder with the shroud removed (or, you can often tell by pulling the spark plug boot and shining in the gap between the shroud and cylinder with a flashlight). The long skinny piece of spring steel used for the decompression valve runs back-to-front on the 66mm cylinder and right-to-left on the 58mm cylinder.

Look for a six shoe 090 clutch and not a three shoe 070 clutch.

The correct 090 fan cover has 'straight' ribs where an 070 fan cover has curved/concave ribs.

Make sure it has a functioning wind vane governor located inside the flywheel housing and linked to the choke shutter on the carburetor.

Check that both the automatic and manual oiling functions work.

Now, excluding the fan cover, what I've noted above boils down to function not aesthetics. Depending on what your plans are for the saw, making some concessions on parts can save you money.


This varies wildly based on the sub-model, condition, and source. A friend of mine just bought a standard 090 for the seller's asking price of $250, and a never-fueled late model 090AV recently reached bidding on ebay to $3,400 and didn't meet the seller's reserve. Both of those prices are well outside of the norm. If you want to know the high-end of the market search around for completed auctions on ebay and go down from there for a fair in-person sale.


My understanding is that the 090 was manufactured from 1968-1984. Any year would be a good choice. The primary visual difference you'll find based on vintage is that the earlier saws had "Stihl" cast into the shroud and a sticker with the model number on the air filter cover whereas the later ones had metal tags for "Stihl" and the model number. Also, the later saws had "Stihl" cast into the clutch cover and the earlier ones did not.


There are a lot of knock-offs and aftermarket parts out there, so if that's a problem for you, you'll definitely want to do some research and keep a sharp eye when evaluating them.


There are a lot of 090s out there, so if you're willing to take time to look and pay a fair price they aren't difficult to get your hands on. They're on ebay a lot, but that's obviously the high end of what you'll have to pay for one. You can always post a want-ad on forums as you have here. Outside of that, keep an eye on Craigslist. You're a little south of the hot zone, but the west coast is a good place to start looking!


Be clear on whether you want to purchase a runner or a potential project. There are a lot of 090s that have been sitting around for many years untouched and need anywhere from a little to a lot of work to get back into running condition.

There are four basic types to look for. There is the standard 090, the gear-reduced 090G, the early 090AV, and the late 090AV. You'll be able to purchase a standard 090 for notably less than a G or late AV. The earlier AV generally brings just a little more than a standard 090.

On the standard 090 there were three types of handlebars. The most popular among buyers/collectors is the seven-bend full wrap. There is also a six-bend full wrap and a normal 'half' wrap.

Most of the 090s I've personally had with good top ends made right around 150 psi. A little lower isn't a huge problem, and given a stock setup saw you normally won't see too much higher.


Good luck with your search, and let us know if you have any questions.

Awesome reply! I've been watching some on eBay, actually had a bid on one and was about to pull the trigger, pun intended, for a BIN when it occurred to me to ask the experts here. I'm new to the forum. I'm glad I did. Didn't BIN and greatly relieved I was outbid on the other.

Seriously, which is hard for me to be, all joking aside, which I've done a lot already at Arboristsite, here's why I want one.

1. I've a large tree removal coming up in Portland. I live in Cali and don't get much bigger than 7 or 8 feet diameter cuts. My cousin, she has a 16/17/18 ' diameter eastern tulip that's swallowing up her yard. I've never dealt with a large tree before, but I imagine the principles are the same, just bigger and more repetitions. Easier than conifers, as there are plenty of aerial anchors to lower segments from. I've scared the **** out of me elf sectioning house huggers. The only damage I've done, other than to my ego (I cut my saw lanyard once) was sawing a 1/2" scrape on a hot tin roof starting a saw once. On the cleanup. Almost done, was feeling so proud of myself! Had to be kept humble, I guess.

So I'm building my experience with longsaws before I go this summer. I can see myself wielding a 96" bar on this job.

2. A life safety ropes background and saw experience demands redundancy in my response. I want a backup saw to my 880. I don't want a second 88 and have heard good things about the 90, so unless warned away or suggested a better option, the 90 it'll be.

3. I'm a collector of vintage tools, but not saws yet, as I prefer reliability and modern features. However, I figured a late model 90 would be a good transition. I love the vintage look of the cast logo, but not enough for it to be my first 90, assuming the latter models are superior.

4. In summary, I want the best working model Stihl 090 I can find. Electric start would be a plus.

Thanks again for your thorough answer.

Dances With Trees
 
There are four basic types to look for. There is the standard 090, the gear-reduced 090G, the early 090AV, and the late 090AV.

Good luck with your search, and let us know if you have any questions.

Just thought of a few more questions.

What were each of the models designed for? i.e. why introduce the gear-reduced 090G?

What's the AV designation stand for?

What's the difference between the early and late AV?

What's the maximum guide bar length recommended for each model?

What's the maximum guide bar length used for each model?

I'll go look for an 090 owners' manual...
 
The 090g will run a long bar easier, much easier than a direct drive saw. I can pull a 96" bar on my 090g with relative ease where the direct drive really struggled (hard on clutches). I don't know for sure but I'd guess somewhere between 72 and 84 inches is max for a direct drive.

The late style AV is pretty much necessary if you still want feeling in your fingers. I cannot say about the early AV. While gear drives don't have AV, the gears seem to take a lot of felt vibration away.
 
Just thought of a few more questions.

What were each of the models designed for? i.e. why introduce the gear-reduced 090G?

What's the AV designation stand for?

What's the difference between the early and late AV?

What's the maximum guide bar length recommended for each model?

What's the maximum guide bar length used for each model?

I'll go look for an 090 owners' manual...

The standard 090 was simply the original, and 'base' model. It is a rigid frame saw.

The AV stands for anti-vibration, and has rubber buffers that isolate the handle & handlebar from the powerhead to reduce vibration for the user. Do a Google image search for Stihl 090AV and you'll see the two distinct styles. The early version is easily identified by the handlebar tube that runs from front-to-back across the top of the saw. The later AV is very easily identified by a large rear handle that houses the AV buffers.

The G has about a 2:1 gear reduction giving it more torque amd can handle longer bars as sawfun mentioned as well as larger pitch chain.

If you PM me your email address I can send you electronic versions of the owner's manual and illustrated parts list.
 
Yes I have a Stihl 090 that I would not mind selling. It has not been used for awhile and it would only reduce my saw supply by one. As I have at least a dozen more. I was not the last person to use it and it needs some TLC to be good. Are you after one that you want to do your own TLC or do you want it already done? I will go through it with new bearings and seals or as is. Of course two different prices. And how soon do you want it? Thanks
 
The standard 090 was simply the original, and 'base' model. It is a rigid frame saw.

The AV stands for anti-vibration, and has rubber buffers that isolate the handle & handlebar from the powerhead to reduce vibration for the user. Do a Google image search for Stihl 090AV and you'll see the two distinct styles. The early version is easily identified by the handlebar tube that runs from front-to-back across the top of the saw. The later AV is very easily identified by a large rear handle that houses the AV buffers.

The G has about a 2:1 gear reduction giving it more torque amd can handle longer bars as sawfun mentioned as well as larger pitch chain.

If you PM me your email address I can send you electronic versions of the owner's manual and illustrated parts list.

Thanks!

[email protected]

I believe the 090G is the one for me!
 
The 090g will run a long bar easier, much easier than a direct drive saw. I can pull a 96" bar on my 090g with relative ease where the direct drive really struggled (hard on clutches). I don't know for sure but I'd guess somewhere between 72 and 84 inches is max for a direct drive.

The late style AV is pretty much necessary if you still want feeling in your fingers. I cannot say about the early AV. While gear drives don't have AV, the gears seem to take a lot of felt vibration away.

Ok. Thanks! I'll look for an 090G.

What's your opinion of the MS 880 and long bars? Stihl recommends no longer than 59". I'd think the clutch limitation holds true, unless they beefed it up.
 
Yes I have a Stihl 090 that I would not mind selling. It has not been used for awhile and it would only reduce my saw supply by one. As I have at least a dozen more. I was not the last person to use it and it needs some TLC to be good. Are you after one that you want to do your own TLC or do you want it already done? I will go through it with new bearings and seals or as is. Of course two different prices. And how soon do you want it? Thanks

Hey Ted,

I'd be interested if it is the 090G model. Let's go from there.

Thanks, David
 
The standard 090g is 106cc not 137. A few have the larger 66mm cylinder as apposed to the 58mm. I've had five 090g's and two had the factory Stihl 66mm cylinders, the other three had the standard 58mm. You can always add the bigger 66mm setup later on. Make sure the plastic chain guard that protects the crankcase is intact as those are very hard to get as are sprocket covers and mufflers.
 
The standard 090g is 106cc not 137. A few have the larger 66mm cylinder as apposed to the 58mm. I've had five 090g's and two had the factory Stihl 66mm cylinders, the other three had the standard 58mm. You can always add the bigger 66mm setup later on. Make sure the plastic chain guard that protects the crankcase is intact as those are very hard to get as are sprocket covers and mufflers.

What were they thinking engineering the 090G with the 106cc?

How rare are the 137's?

I may not stop with a 96" bar.

I'm bidding on a residential Giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum), even larger than the tulip tree, that's encroaching on the foundation of a house. Most likely transplanted during California's gold rush era, making him in excess of 200 years young.

I'm really struggling emotionally with this one as he's a champion. A perfect tree. A perfect tree in his prime. Perfectly shaped, perfectly balanced. A signature Sequoia, and I've seen some mighty fine examples. My Daddy has an unbreakable tie to the species, as he was a tree tender in Yosemite National Park, and was the discoverer of the demise of the Wawona Tunnel Tree, from which modern old growth Sequoia management springs. How can I kill something so grand? How can I betray the species, denying the spirit of my Dad?

If he has to go, however, who better to attend his transition than I, born and raised, frolicking in awe, in the shadows of his brothers in Wawona? He'd live on in the artful displays his mass would provide. No mere lumber he'd be.

Alternatively, I may purchase the property and retire the house...
 
What were they thinking engineering the 090G with the 106cc?

How rare are the 137's?

I may not stop with a 96" bar.

I'm bidding on a residential Giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum), even larger than the tulip tree, that's encroaching on the foundation of a house. Most likely transplanted during California's gold rush era, making him in excess of 200 years young.

I'm really struggling emotionally with this one as he's a champion. A perfect tree. A perfect tree in his prime. Perfectly shaped, perfectly balanced. A signature Sequoia, and I've seen some mighty fine examples. My Daddy has an unbreakable tie to the species, as he was a tree tender in Yosemite National Park, and was the discoverer of the demise of the Wawona Tunnel Tree, from which modern old growth Sequoia management springs. How can I kill something so grand? How can I betray the species, denying the spirit of my Dad?

If he has to go, however, who better to attend his transition than I, born and raised, frolicking in awe, in the shadows of his brothers in Wawona? He'd live on in the artful displays his mass would provide. No mere lumber he'd be.

Alternatively, I may purchase the property and retire the house...

c61d3ab229d3e0745a751e982b315eb6.jpg
aa525812e05c68902569b5a8c8748257.jpg
456b4e34f8f3db5e6f765bb5b47b7f88.jpg

Spent a month on a fire in Seq/Kings 2 years ago, amazing and awe inspiring would be an understatement
 

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