Stihl 261c-m trouble

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Need2Saw

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We have a brand new 261c-m with 7 tooth rim and 16" x 3/8" bar and chain. This saw struggles to keep the chain spinning while cutting 14-15" ash logs. Here are my questions.
Am I being unreasonable to assume this saw should buck these size logs without bogging and stalling the chain?
Also, does this bar/chain choice hurt the saws performance verse .325 chain?
Is there a noticeable difference after running a set amount of tanks through the saw.
The saw has 1-2 tanks through it at this time.
 
You are not being unreasonable. A 50cc saw should have no problems cutting 14-15" logs. Your saw will need more time to run in, 10-15 tanks for saws with electronic carb and strato. And I would have considered changing the bar and chain to .325". Don't forget to keep the chain sharp.
 
You are not being unreasonable. A 50cc saw should have no problems cutting 14-15" logs. Your saw will need more time to run in, 10-15 tanks for saws with electronic carb and strato. And I would have considered changing the bar and chain to .325". Don't forget to keep the chain sharp.

Thanks for your reply. The saw, chain and bar are brand new. I have the chance to return the saw and upgrade to 60cc. So I am trying to determine if it's worth keeping and running more fuel through it to break it in or trade up.
This saw was purchased for its a low weight, it would be nice to keep it instead of trading up to 60cc and more weight.
The saw just didn't have to wow factor out of the box that I expected.
 
That saw won't ever wow you with 3/8 chain on 15" wood. It is a good strong saw but best suited for .325 chain and 10" wood. If you are in 15" wood most of the time the 60cc saw will be a minimum. What you are experiencing is normal and won't change much if any with 10 more tanks.
 
I think that you should give the saw a chance. A strong 50Cc saw is a very good allround saw. If you want to upgrade in the future you should look at a 70 cc. A 50 and a 60cc saw will be very close in power. Get the dealer to give you a deal on a new bar and chain instead.
 
I would expect a 261 to pull a 16" 3/8 bar just fine....Assuming a sharp chain, drags set to correct depth it wont wow you but should still be a competent saw with that setup and if not i would suspect issues that the dealer should be taking a look at. i sell plenty of dolly 510's with a 20" 3/8 bar...3.6 hp vs the 261 with 3.9hp....and while the 510 with a 20" isnt a speed demon it handles it reasonably well.
 
We have a brand new 261c-m with 7 tooth rim and 16" x 3/8" bar and chain. This saw struggles to keep the chain spinning while cutting 14-15" ash logs. Here are my questions.
Am I being unreasonable to assume this saw should buck these size logs without bogging and stalling the chain?
Also, does this bar/chain choice hurt the saws performance verse .325 chain?
Is there a noticeable difference after running a set amount of tanks through the saw.
The saw has 1-2 tanks through it at this time.
That's too new to judge the saw
 
My ms261 was unremarkable early on (16" bar w/.325 semi-chisel chain). Took a long time to come around (7-8 gallons of mix), but it is plenty fast now. IMO 3/8" chain is for 60cc saws and up. If you're looking for the fastest chain on this saw, it'll be .325 pitch. Your choice. Besides, the smaller .325 cutters are faster to sharpen, and are what Stihl recommends for this saw.
 
Are you guys saying the 261 is a pooch compared to the 026 and 260.
its noticeably stronger than a 26 or 260 but they still arent impressive with 3/8 chain.

My ms261 was unremarkable early on (16" bar w/.325 semi-chisel chain). Took a long time to come around (7-8 gallons of mix), but it is plenty fast now. IMO 3/8" chain is for 60cc saws and up. If you're looking for the fastest chain on this saw, it'll be .325 pitch. Your choice.
i switch to 3/8 as soon as the saw has the nuts to pull it. 261 is borderline IMO. never timed the cuts but by feel in 12-14" wood its faster with 3/8. bigger than that and .325 is a faster choice but i would still run 3/8
 
The 261 will pull 3/8 just fine. My guess is you're pushing on the saw and because it has a fresh chain it's grabbing too much. Let the saw cut, don't push. If this isn't the case try resetting the the Mtronic system. Do this by starting the saw in the cold start setting and allowing the saw to idle "with the chain break off" for at least 60 seconds, than turn the saw off without touching the throttle. The system is now reset.
 
its noticeably stronger than a 26 or 260 but they still arent impressive with 3/8 chain.


i switch to 3/8 as soon as the saw has the nuts to pull it. 261 is borderline IMO. never timed the cuts but by feel in 12-14" wood its faster with 3/8. bigger than that and .325 is a faster choice but i would still run 3/8

It is probably me, but I have never been able to .... confidently grasp why running the 3/8 is the better choice.

Less chance of the chain breaking?
 
... I have never been able to .... confidently grasp why running the 3/8 is the better choice.
Less chance of the chain breaking?
Proves that 1. you have more testosterone than the weenies running the itty bitty .325", and 2. you're smarter than the weenie engineers at Stihl who determined that .325 was the best match for the 261. :chainsaw:
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I can't believe .325 would make that much difference. The opinion seems to be split on that. I have 3/8" on my dolmar and it cuts just fine, never even thought about putting a .325 on that one.

Are you sure the high speed carb adjustment has been properly tuned? I have seen a lot of "dealer tuned" saws that run out of power part way through the cut because they are set too lean.

The dealer didn't tune the saw

That's too new to judge the saw

After the first tank on a brand new 562xp I knew that saw was impressive.

The 261 will pull 3/8 just fine. My guess is you're pushing on the saw and because it has a fresh chain it's grabbing too much. Let the saw cut, don't push. If this isn't the case try resetting the the Mtronic system. Do this by starting the saw in the cold start setting and allowing the saw to idle "with the chain break off" for at least 60 seconds, than turn the saw off without touching the throttle. The system is now reset.

I've cut enough to know when overloading a saw. With this saw, you need to almost hold the saw up to keep the chain spinning. Thanks for your advise, I will try resetting the mtronics although it seems weird that it would need to be done this early.
 
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