Stihl 362 with 25 or 28 bar

[XSKIER]

They used to make picco micro comfort. PMC. Non-safety semi-chisel. I think it has been discontinued though. On a MS 192 T C-E, I couldn't tell the differense between PMC and PS3.

 

[gsrsol84mm]

Troll I love you man but this balance fetish makes me think you're back on smalahove for breakfast, lunch, and dinner again. I would ask you what bar should I use on my 090 for bucking the occasional BIG fir or redwood? Now I run a 4' or even a 5' bar and either combination is as nose heavy as a bulldozer. But, it reaches through the log. The only saw where balance is important to me is my MS200T. It wears a 16" light bar.

I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile. BTW it is a heavy bar. (However I have really fallen in love with the MS261/20" combo.) But for real work a 28" bar on a 440 or 441 suits my height best. I prefer the Stihl Light bar but even with a Cannon the "reach" and therefore my hand/shoulder position is optimal. I can work longer and with less back pain. Body and shoulder position is impotant, balance is not. At least to me. YMMV.

Makes a lot of sense. I like the 20" bar on my MS261 as well but the Jonsered 2260 is almost the same weight as the stihl 261 with lots more power so I tend to use it first with the 20" bar. 20" bars are comfortable to use for me and I like the 16" light bar on my stihl 201c. I have shorter bars for my 50cc saws but don't really like to use them. If I need a shorter bar I go to the Snellerized stihl 201c.

 

[windthrown]

I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile.

What gauge is your 22" bar? I could not find a PN for a Stihl 22 inch bar. The only bar I can find in that size is a Cannon and its a 0.063. I have all 0.050 3/8 std. B&C on my larger saws. I think a 22 would be the ideal size bar for a 361 myself (and likely my 036). The 25s are not that heavy or long to me, and the added length does not bother me at all. Half the 361s I bought here had 28 inch bars on them. They were all burned from lack of oil though. I run them on my 044.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

What gauge is your 22" bar? I could not find a PN for a Stihl 22 inch bar. The only bar I can find in that size is a Cannon and its a 0.063. I have all 0.050 3/8 std. B&C on my larger saws. I think a 22 would be the ideal size bar for a 361 myself (and likely my 036). The 25s are not that heavy or long to me, and the added length does not bother me at all. Half the 361s I bought here had 28 inch bars on them. They were all burned from lack of oil though. I run them on my 044.

Stihl only offers the 22" in .063. The part # is 3003 000 9425.

 

[windthrown]

Same as Cannon then, and only .063... rats.

 

[Ndigity26]

My ported 60cc is a Jonsered 2260 Ported by Tlandrum. It takes the small Husky mount bar and is currently wearing an Oregon Pro Lite 20" 3/8 .050 bar. The saw is very well balanced with the 20" Pro Lite Bar
and is really my go to saw. I would not want an 18" bar on this saw as the 20" bar feels perfect. I would also not want a longer than 20" bar on this saw either. If I had to have just one saw, it would be the ported 2260.

how much for one of those 2260's

 

[SawTroll]

Stihl only offers the 22" in .063. The part # is 3003 000 9425.

Imo, .058 is the ideal gauge for most use, but it isn't that big of a deal!

Stihl makes .325 and 3/8" chain in that gauge, but the only Stihl bars in that gauge I know of are quite short Rollomatic E bars, 13-15".

 

[windthrown]

No one uses 0.058 gauge on Stihl saws in the states though. Its all 0.050 and 0.063, and 0.050 is far more common (at least in the wild west). I have long since swapped all my B&C to 0.050 std. gauge on my large mount Stihls.

 

[SawTroll]

No one uses 0.058 gauge on Stihl saws in the states though. Its all 0.050 and 0.063, and 0.050 is far more common (at least in the wild west). I have long since swapped all my B&C to 0.050 std. gauge on my large mount Stihls.

I know, but I suspect it is not ideal when it comes to oiling!

 

[sachsmo]

The long and short of it (so to speak) is that a saw is a tool.

You wouldn't scoop lead shot with a grain shovel nor would you scoop grain with garden trowel eh?

A 20" bar in these parts will get 90% of the trees down and on the truck.

Of course it is mostly flat and the trees are, well different than out West.

Different strokes for different folks.

 

[PersonX]

I’m reading this thread wondering why anyone in their right mind would hang a 20” bar on a 362 and then I’m reminded of how horrible my 362 ran in stock form and how disappointed I was with it over its lack of power and poor bar lubrication and now the 20” thing really makes sense to me for some people. You guys ever think about how easy it is to uncork this eco saw or is it taboo to even **** chat about it on here wink wink? I know my Stihl dealer won’t even discuss the existence of limiter caps on the carb ( yes my 362 has a fully adjustable carb and no longer runs lean!) for fear the epa will come for him with handcuffs. I also threw the stock Oiler in the trash and added a high volume oil pump off of a 460 so this saw truly can empty the oil tank before you run out of fuel if you wanted. Open up the muffler a little bit and this saw takes on a brand new attitude. No more crappy lean starting either. I run a 28” Light bar and feel it’s a perfect tool for a tall guy with a sore back. No I probably won’t cut 24”+ wood with this saw because I have a 661 for that so why bend over if you don’t have to???