Stihl 441 Stingy Oiler?

[Gkiesel]

Hello all. I have a 441 CM M-tronic with the wrap handle.
I'm running a 28 inch light bar. It really seems to have issues getting enough oil out to the end of the bar. I've been running the stihl ultra bar oil.
It's like I have to blip the throttle repeatedly before a long cut or the chain gets really dry. The oil holes in the bar are clear. Does anybody know if there is a higher output oiler available? My understanding was that the wrap handle models had the heavy duty oiler but it's not enough it seems. Thanks G

 

[ericm979]

Did you turn the oiler adjustment up?

 

[CR888]

There's threads on modifying the oiler for increased flow but first make sure the system is working as it should. The 'R' model may have a hi flow control bolt in the oil pump. You may be able to order and replace it.

 

[Bwildered]

Hello all. I have a 441 CM M-tronic with the wrap handle.
I'm running a 28 inch light bar. It really seems to have issues getting enough oil out to the end of the bar. I've been running the stihl ultra bar oil.
It's like I have to blip the throttle repeatedly before a long cut or the chain gets really dry. The oil holes in the bar are clear. Does anybody know if there is a higher output oiler available? My understanding was that the wrap handle models had the heavy duty oiler but it's not enough it seems. Thanks G

If there is no excessive stretch, wear , smoke or signs of heat then the chain is getting enough oil, the oil doesn't have to be coating the outside of the chain, just internal parts like the pins, tangs & rails.
Thanski

 

[Lowhog]

Ratio per tanks of fuel? 1 tank of fuel to 1 tank of oil? My new 261c uses 1/2 tank of oil to 1 tank of fuel. My old saws use 1:1. Dealer told me run winter blend year round in the 261c. Keeping a very sharp chain helps as well.Born In Pompton Plains raised in Pompton Lakes. Aunt lived in West Milford for years nice country.

 

[Firemoore98]

I own a 441 and find it to be a great saw. I used to run Stihl bar oil exclusively , but after the reformulation a few years ago I heated up a couple bars when I thought I should not have... I have become a stickler for cleaning my bar groove of debi with a tool to promote better oiling and I have switched bar oil. Problem solved. I am running the tractor supply cheap $6 a gallon on sale bar oil, I find it to be tackier like the “older” formulation orange jug Stihl bar oil and keeps my chains looking wet and most importantly they appear to run cooler.

As other suggested be sure the Oiler is turned all the way up, clean all oil holes and bar groove thoroughly and try a different type of oil. Also a sharp chain that produces chunks instead of dust will also help with oil flow across the bar and chain cooling.

I go through .75 tanks of oil for every 1 tank of fuel with the tsc bar oil.

Let us know what works

Jason


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Back to basics,

I had a MS441cm several years ago and felt the same, with a 20 inch bar. Eventually after the rails turned blue Stihl sprung for the HO oiler to be installed. All was well at that point.

The MS441cm-R should come with the hi flow oiler installed. Stihl rates the max. bar at 32 inches but that IMO, is pushing it.

First do the oil slinging from the end of the bar check. If you're getting a decent spray all is probably well.

If you haven't already, pull the cover, bar and chain and give everything a good cleaning with compressed air. Next check the oil hole in the bar for blockage. This is very common. I use a dental pick, but a piece of wire will do. Clean all the accumulated gunk out of the bar rails, be sure oil port is still clear.

Start the saw and rev it up, observe that oil is indeed flowing through as needed. If not, there may be a blockage or issue with the oil pick up in the tank. While running adjust the oiler and see if the volume changes.

Other than your observation of not enough oil, are there any other signs not enough oil is getting to the bar and chain? Is the bar turning blue and the paint coming off around the rails? Is the chain bone dry? Have you been noodling a lot? If you have one, put a shorter bar on, 20 inch or so and check for a change.

Several years ago, I was told from a couple saw shops that carry Stihl and other saws there was a push on saw mfgs. to reduce bar oil consumption to lesson the effects of environmental contamination. Theory being less oil out put, less overstay for the ground and vegetation to absorb. Whether this is accurate or not I can't verify.

Let us know how things turn out.

Take Care

 

[Stihl 041S]

How big is the oil hole in the bar. They are getting smaller.

Dremel time.......

 

[Gkiesel]

So. Yes the oiler is turned up to the max. I think the R model comes with the larger oiler.
It's happened twice that the chain will sieze on the bar because it was so dry. If I blip the throttle repeated before a long cut, you can see the oil sling, and all is well. Maybe I will try different bar oil. Thanks.

 

[Firemoore98]

Is your chain too tight? You said your chain seized up from heat? Usually when a chain get hot it expands right?

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SteveSr]

So. Yes the oiler is turned up to the max. I think the R model comes with the larger oiler.
It's happened twice that the chain will sieze on the bar because it was so dry. If I blip the throttle repeated before a long cut, you can see the oil sling, and all is well. Maybe I will try different bar oil. Thanks.

What species are you cutting? I have seen this with new (tight tolerance) b&c when cutting maple and sometimes pine. Keep the chain moving to re-oil it after the cut and before it can gum up and seize.

 

[Gkiesel]

It happened cutting a big old maple. Like Stevesr says if i repeatedly blip the throttle before and after the cut it is fine. Doesn't happen every time. Usually everything is fine.

 

[Stihl 041S]

Have you opened the hole in the bar?

 

[Gkiesel]

I've cleaned the hole in the bar. Is it ok to make it a bit larger? Don't want to ruin the bar.