Stihl BR600, need an expert

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The page out of the manual I posted is from the 2012 Mediacat. I just checked the manual on the current PartSmart
on Stihl's website, they are identical. .10 for both intake and exhaust.
I also looked at all of the tech bulletins.

I just checked B.Net and it too states .10 but those are the old service manuals. Talking to the stihl technical center they are the ones who told us .10 for intake and .20 for exhaust. We gave it a go and literately hundreds of blowers and trimmers later no issues.
 
Why do you use 2 feeler gauges?
I use 2 because that is what we were told to do by stihl.
IF it failed we could have blamed stihl for the misinformation but it did not. As I said we do hundreds of these, be it a home owner of a landscaper.
 
Well........
You ought to give them a call back, see if you can come up with it in any Stihl literature.
Also suggest that they make a .20 feeler gauge too, for us that are doing it wrong.....
 
OK, I guess I am in need of further education.

If you set the valve gap at .20 mm, doesn't that cause the valve to not open as far? Would that not interfere by restricting the exhaust & causing a less-clean burn in a two-cycle engine?

What advantage is given by setting at a bigger air gap?
 
OK, I guess I am in need of further education.

If you set the valve gap at .20 mm, doesn't that cause the valve to not open as far? Would that not interfere by restricting the exhaust & causing a less-clean burn in a two-cycle engine?

What advantage is given by setting at a bigger air gap?
Just set it as the Stihl Manuals tell you to, .10 for both......
 
Well........
You ought to give them a call back, see if you can come up with it in any Stihl literature.
Also suggest that they make a .20 feeler gauge too, for us that are doing it wrong.....

I will get right on that HarleyT
I am just telling you what we were told and what we do. I do it on my personal equipment as well. I can only guess that they came to the conclusion that this works well.
 
OK, I guess I am in need of further education.

If you set the valve gap at .20 mm, doesn't that cause the valve to not open as far? Would that not interfere by restricting the exhaust & causing a less-clean burn in a two-cycle engine?

What advantage is given by setting at a bigger air gap?

Yes, you reduce lift, and you also reduce duration.

I would say by reducing lift and open time, you have more leftovers in the chamber. This will give you reduced emmisions, but also reducing power output.

The advantage is that you can go a longer lenth of time before you have to set the gap.
 
Yes, you reduce lift, and you also reduce duration.

I would say by reducing lift and open time, you have more leftovers in the chamber. This will give you reduced emmisions, but also reducing power output.

The advantage is that you can go a longer lenth of time before you have to set the gap.

I can see it taking away a little bit of power, but anythuing noticeable I am sure we would hear about it from the landscapers. 8-10 hours a day with a br 600 slung over your shoulder you get to know how that machine runs intimately! I have a well used unit as my personal one and even with those settings I am able to push a paving stone across the driveway with no issues. Typically we see the blowers a few times a season and part of the PM is to check/adjust the valves. Stihl is closed till the 4th of Jan but I will ring and get more details.
 
Who are they?

Stihl Canada.
The Tech Centre. It is in London Ontario. When a dealer gets a very stubborn problem or a strange failure the piece of equipment is often sent there. It is also where we call to get authorization for some of the more interesting repairs.
 
Yes, you reduce lift, and you also reduce duration.

I would say by reducing lift and open time, you have more leftovers in the chamber. This will give you reduced emmisions, but also reducing power output.

The advantage is that you can go a longer lenth of time before you have to set the gap.

Pretty much what I thought, but doesn't the gap get wider with use? I don't have that much experience with these engines, but I don't see how the gap would be closing any with wear & tear. I thought the periodic valve adjustment was to keep it from being too wide.
 
Pretty much what I thought, but doesn't the gap get wider with use? I don't have that much experience with these engines, but I don't see how the gap would be closing any with wear & tear. I thought the periodic valve adjustment was to keep it from being too wide.

Seat erosion causes the gap to shrink.
 
Our dealer keeps nothing in stock, so no, the original camshaft is in it. We have even been obliged to wait for bar nuts from this dealer.

I get my parts from Platte Rental and Supply in Parkville. They keep most common parts in stock (they'll definitely have bar nuts) and usually order once a week. Oh, and they are open 7 days a week except for holidays. I always set both valves at .1mm with one of the Stihl feeler gauges. Usually the intake doesn't change and the exhaust is a little loose, but that may be from carbon build up. Generally valves gaps tend to close up because the seat and valve wear/hammer together and this leads to less material at the valve seat area. Just my experience.
 

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