Stihl Chainsaw Recommendation Needed for Experienced, Woodburning Homeowner

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My thinkin'...
If your 028 is over 20-years old then you've got a good one... back when Stihl was still makin' saws and not trying to make EPA compliant, reduced emissions, reduced noise, heavy, plastic laden, "homeowner safe" tools. Not sayin' you shouldn't get another saw, a second saw if that's what you're wantin'; but if'n you feel the 028 is gettin' a bit "tired"... well, I'd just stick a new set of rings in it and keep-on-keepin'-on. My thinkin' is you could renovate (re-ring) that old 028, stick a new bar on it and have a pile of cash left over for... well, for whatever.

Do you think I could get away with just rings? If so, I like your thinking. I was concerned I might have to go piston, rings, boring, etc. and realize this saw may only be worth $150 - $200 so wasn't sure I wanted to put that much into it.

Link
 
Seems if weight was an issue for you I would buy the 361 (4.4 bhp, 12.3 lb powerhead). However since you already have a lighter saw that is still running good I personally would go for the more powerful 441 to give you more range in your saws. A bigger saw will cut faster that a smaller one, no replacement for displacement. The 441 (5.5 bhp, 14.6 lb powerhead) is only 2.3lbs heavier than the 361. Now haviing not held each saw at my dealer, which I recommend you do as every saw feels different in the hands, I would actually suggest the 460 (6.0 bph, 14.lbs). The 460 seems to me to be the better buy than the 441, as it is probably about the same price and is the same weight as the 441, yet has another half a horse more.

Now since no one has yet taken a stab at the second part of your question I will give it a go. The advantage to a longer bar and chain are several. First it gives you the ability to cut larger diameter wood if you so needed. Second, the more cutters that are on the chain, the fewer times they will touch the wood, so the chain will cut more wood without going dull than the same chain that is shorter and has fewer links. Third I went to a 24 inch bar on my saw so I did not have to bend over to cut and limb so much. Trust me at the end of the day your back will thank you for the longer bar.

The bottom line is only you know what size, species, ect wood you are cutting. Therefore you are the only one that can answer what saw is best for you, and how you use it. Everyone's situation is different. I went from a 55 cc husky rancher to a 80 cc Dolmar, and I can say I have not even pulled the cord on the 55 in a couple of years. Once you get used to the power of the bigger saws, you can not go back. I would bet you would be the same. Perhaps, as a thought, if you have access to borrowing a 441 or 460, or maybe renting one for a day, I would. That will tell you everything you need to know.
 
My thinkin'...
If your 028 is over 20-years old then you've got a good one... back when Stihl was still makin' saws and not trying to make EPA compliant, reduced emissions, reduced noise, heavy, plastic laden, "homeowner safe" tools. Not sayin' you shouldn't get another saw, a second saw if that's what you're wantin'; but if'n you feel the 028 is gettin' a bit "tired"... well, I'd just stick a new set of rings in it and keep-on-keepin'-on. My thinkin' is you could renovate (re-ring) that old 028, stick a new bar on it and have a pile of cash left over for... well, for whatever.

Yes, if it needs a re-build...DO IT.....then that 028 will last another 25 years:good:.
 
Yes, if it needs a re-build...DO IT.....then that 028 will last another 25 years:good:.

What's the measure of needing a rebuild? I just did a compression test an it came in at 170 psi so perhaps the top end is fine. It just seems like it doesn't cut as fast as it used to. What else could I check? Does the clutch ever tire? I rebuilt the carb last year and replaced the pulse line from the crankcase to the carb.
 
Get the 362, you will not regret it. I like my 028, and 038 but the anti vibe is the best part of the new saw.

I run a 20" bar most of the time, I have a 25" for big cuts, and an 18" that flies through limbs. It balances best
with the 18 or 20 though. RSC chain on everything.

View attachment 260071View attachment 260072

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
What's the measure of needing a rebuild? I just did a compression test an it came in at 170 psi so perhaps the top end is fine. It just seems like it doesn't cut as fast as it used to. What else could I check? Does the clutch ever tire? I rebuilt the carb last year and replaced the pulse line from the crankcase to the carb.


check your sprocket for wear. If it is original, it more than likely needs replaced.

air filter and spark plug good?
 
What's the measure of needing a rebuild? I just did a compression test an it came in at 170 psi so perhaps the top end is fine. It just seems like it doesn't cut as fast as it used to. What else could I check? Does the clutch ever tire? I rebuilt the carb last year and replaced the pulse line from the crankcase to the carb.

Could also be your bar, when is the last time you "dressed it" or had it dressed? Meaning, rails true, not cupped or full of dings, mushroomed over, bad sprocket, cleaned out. All these things will help a saw stay healthy. Some other things are as simple as clean air filter, fins and covers blown out and clean. Sometimes the simple things are the answer. 170 lbs on the compression sounds like a good saw. Just some sugestions......
 
This bar was new last year but I will admit, I never got a proper education on bar maintenance as how to sharpen the chain so it could be a combination of factors. Yes, I think the sprocket and clutch are original since I don't recall replacing them. Spark plug was wet when I pulled it so perhaps my carb adjustments are off. Could it be possible that crankcase seals are weak and not creating enough vacuum to deliver the fuel to the carb? Regardless of what I do, I still want to make sure the 028AV is tuned and running best it can!
 
Oh no, the beginnings of CAD. ( Chainsaw acquisition disease) There is no cure. Resistance is futile.

Thank you,
I have only been on this forum a few months and I have seen "CAD" posted hundreds of times.
I understood the meaning, but could not figure out the actual definition.

Thanks again, now I know.:msp_thumbup:
 
170 PSI compression? Gotta' believe that top end is just fine.
Time to start lookin' elsewhere for performance problems...
Yeah, possibly the clutch is slipping (shrug), bar, chain, sprocket... maybe as simple as a partially plugged spark arrestor screen.
Maybe the flywheel key has sheared and allowed it to rotate a bit on the shaft, changing the timing slightly?
Hard to say... all guess-work without being able to "see" the saw.
 
Another vote for the spark arrestor screen...it's on the muffler. Remove it and see if all the holes are not clogged....if so grab it with vice grips, heat with a torch till it's red then tap the vice grips on a hard surface....all the carbon should fall right off.

If that ain't it, try a brand new Stihl RSC chain'''skip tooth and see if that does not put a smile on your face. And learn how to properly tune the carb....makes a big dif too.
 
If you want a Stihl here is another endorsement for the 361/362. I was doing a job with a guy a few weeks ago that required quite a bit of bucking 15" hard maple. He was running a processor and I was prepping and loading the logs for him ( around 50 cords). I was using my ms 290. He asked if I wanted to try out his new saw, a ported 361. I was totally blown away by this saw and ended up using quite a bit over the next three days. Just for comparison I ran it against the 290 on the same log. In the time it took for the 290 to make 1 cut the 361 made 3 cuts.

After this job was done I decided that I needed a new saw. Couldn't get my hands on a Stihl but managed to find a new modified husqvarna 365 ( exactly like this ).

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-PrR6NtlFrc

I have since run the 365 against the same 361 that I had been using and it is actually a bit faster but perhaps a bit heavier. I am now enjoying my newly discovered CAD and hope to pick up a new limbing saw soon.
 
Last edited:
OP

Welcome to AS!

You mentioned that you rebuilt the carb awhile back. How did you adjust it? It it's too rich, you will not get the power you once had.

[video=youtube_share;5BZkB9QQTJU]http://youtu.be/5BZkB9QQTJU[/video]
 
Last edited:
This bar was new last year but I will admit, I never got a proper education on bar maintenance as how to sharpen the chain so it could be a combination of factors. Yes, I think the sprocket and clutch are original since I don't recall replacing them. Spark plug was wet when I pulled it so perhaps my carb adjustments are off. Could it be possible that crankcase seals are weak and not creating enough vacuum to deliver the fuel to the carb? Regardless of what I do, I still want to make sure the 028AV is tuned and running best it can!

Chain sharpening and lowering depth stops as tooth is sharpened back.
 
The 362 would be a good fit..
(I do like the RawPower of the 460 too..)
 
Im in the same boat here. Been running an MS310 for some time now just for firewood, approximatley 15 cord per year. Typically run a 20" bar which is adequate for most wood. I have a couple pine that I need to take down that a 24-28" bar would be nice to have. Yeah I can cut from both sides but I want more bar.
Every year around this time I contemplate getting a new saw. Ive been looking at all routes, used 6401 (ebay) with a 7900 kit, new 6400 (local) and add the 7900 kit later, used MS440 (ebay), used 460 (ebay) or even the 064 in the classifieds here. Id like to stick with the Stihl because i have a couple bars and chains already.
I dont use the saw for hours at a time so weight isnt a big concern. Ill just start wandering around the woods if I get tired and come back to cutting later. I just want more power. Besides, as the kids get older and ther are running the 310, ill need a saw for myself.
 
Back
Top