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I wonder how Thall does it? He Spends time with the customers, Does the repairs, Answers the phones, Rings up the sales. Must be alittle profit in talking to the customer and taking care of their needs. He is still in business i think.
 
I have only been inside a couple hundred of the 1127 series saws. I have never seen an intake boot or impulse line fail from age on one of those. Even on saws with crank seals hard as cement, the impulse and intake are still good. Why would a dealer stock a part they'll likely never sell?


As for the mechanic, when I am there I AM the guy who is really busy. I do try to help customers when possible. Sadly, if I spend all my time answering questions then I'll never get any work done. This gets to be a problem when folks want their $1000+ cement saw back. You do the math. Sounds like the total parts you bought were about $35 retail, which the dealer makes less than half of minus shipping. It would not take very long at all for the shop to loose more than the $14 they made on your parts by having the mechanic off task. If you have questions about why your piston broke, ask them here. That is what AS is all about.



Well great glad you've never seen them fail. If it was my shop I would stock every part for the brands most popular saw.



Okay did you read the part about buying a 500 dollar weedeater from them? It was at the end of the day! Give me a break the dude had like 15 minutes before close. I did ask that question here after I found this site. I work on trucks for a living and yes I have people that have some big money being lost with down time. I will still help all customers, if it gets outta hand just put a stop to it and go back to work. So now I will probably never spend ANY money in there. The internet is great to buy from, and I really don't need them anyway. I was the ONLY person in the shop at the time. If it was you, you probably would have been put off by it as well.
 
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I have only been inside a couple hundred of the 1127 series saws. I have never seen an intake boot or impulse line fail from age on one of those. Even on saws with crank seals hard as cement, the impulse and intake are still good. Why would a dealer stock a part they'll likely never sell?

As for the mechanic, when I am there I AM the guy who is really busy. I do try to help customers when possible. Sadly, if I spend all my time answering questions then I'll never get any work done. This gets to be a problem when folks want their $1000+ cement saw back. You do the math. Sounds like the total parts you bought were about $35 retail, which the dealer makes less than half of minus shipping. It would not take very long at all for the shop to loose more than the $14 they made on your parts by having the mechanic off task. If you have questions about why your piston broke, ask them here. That is what AS is all about.

Also i forgot, if he was SO busy why did HE (mechanic) have to help the counter parts man for 20 minutes when there were others behind the counter? It appeared pretty slow to me, and I only wanted to ask one question. It's okay if I need parts I will order them on line. When I want new equipment I'll go to another dealer.
 
Went to the big Stihl dealer for a very common part, a 034 flywheel key, this key fits quite a few saws, he tells me he will have to order it. $1.50 for the key $3.50 for shipping, needless to say I went home and shaved down a ms290 key. I do still frequent the parts department I just don't order anything. There is just something about the fellows behind the counter, characters all of them.

Sorry, the farqing BOGUS METER is still blaring out in the parking lot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
View attachment 262883



Put the key in my little vice and used a round dremmel stone to grind it down, had to check a few times to make sure I removed enough material. It was actually easier than I thought it would be.

Wouldn't it be easier to grind down a booger??????



262883d1353270998-booger-001-jpg
 
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View attachment 262883





Wouldn't it be easier to grind down a booger??????



262883d1353270998-booger-001-jpg

I did not have to take much off the top and bottom but had to remove some material on the sides of the key, The hardest part was getting the key into the vice, I am a big guy with large hands and tried a few times before it dawned on me to use some needle nose pliers. The grinding was easy as the stone I used was narrower than the key, now if I had a few parts saws I may have not had to do this.
 
I did not have to take much off the top and bottom but had to remove some material on the sides of the key, The hardest part was getting the key into the vice, I am a big guy with large hands and tried a few times before it dawned on me to use some needle nose pliers. The grinding was easy as the stone I used was narrower than the key, now if I had a few parts saws I may have not had to do this.

Stone???????

You are so full of ****!!!!!!
 
Which has saved the industry a few thousand pennies.....

But when all of the flywheel failures were looked at, they were the fault of the kid working on the saw.......
 
Do I need to take a picture of it? I shaved down the key to fit the keyway not the otherway around. I guess I had better get off my ass and get you some pics.

So you cut a key out of the flywheel I posted???????

Just real curious. The ms290/029 key is just cast into the aluminum flywheel. wouldn't it be easier to grind down a penny??????????

Maybe I am reading this wrong, but "HUH"??????
 
Do I need to take a picture of it? I shaved down the key to fit the keyway not the otherway around. I guess I had better get off my ass and get you some pics.

The key out of a ms290 flywheel is just a machined tit of aluminum, not a key......

Please help me understand...
 
I run one of my saws with no fly wheel key at all; and it runs great

Got that one from a couple builders here on AS
 
We carry full line of bars up to 36", the owner has been a Stihl/Echo dealer for well over 30 years, knows his stuff. Head saw tech has over 35 years experience wrenching on saws, used to own his own dealership, selling Stihl, Husky and Dolmar, Gold Tech, in the six weeks I've been there only one part we haven't had a sprocket for a 012. We have a ton of inventory on parts plus a 40x40 full of parts saws of all brands. Some dealers are better than others irregardless of the brand. We carry about every kind of chain Stihl makes including full skip and half skip even square ground. If it's not on the shelf we'll spin one up in a hurry.

There are 3 Stihl shops in my area. One full line in Fort Smith. It is stuffed with most everything. They are fairly knowledgeable. Then there is a new Tractor Dealership. You better know your saws and tractors when you go in there.

The best is an old Western Auto in Poteau, OK. They've been a Stihl dealership for many, many years. Their shop foreman has been there as long. He knows Stihl saws frontwards and backwards, and his parts are almost unlimited. When that man goes ~> so goes the business. I suspect he does lots of business with the logging and tree companies operating in this region of soft and hardwood forests.
 
The key out of a ms290 flywheel is just a machined tit of aluminum, not a key......

Please help me understand...

OK, OK, my bad, seems someone dumped a 028 flywheel into my 029 bin, you are absolutely right as a 1127 has the key machined into the flywheel and some how a 028 flywheel got put in there so I thought it came from the 029 I had in there, sorry for the mis information. So let me clarify. I shaved down a 028 key to fit the 034 saving me $5.
 
OK, OK, my bad, seems someone dumped a 028 flywheel into my 029 bin, you are absolutely right as a 1127 has the key machined into the flywheel and some how a 028 flywheel got put in there so I thought it came from the 029 I had in there, sorry for the mis information. So let me clarify. I shaved down a 028 key to fit the 034 saving me $5.

Sorry, I just couldn't wrap my head around it........
 
If it was my shop I would stock every part for the brands most popular saw.

That is a very idealistic but hardly reasonable. Stihl dealers are independent business people who buy items from Stihl (yes, the dealers are customers) in order to re-sell at a profit. It makes little sense to have money tied up in parts inventory that does not sell. This is especially foolish when most parts (for us at least) are no more than 2 days away. I suspect that dealer cost on "every part" for an unassembled 290 would be considerably more than the retail price of a new one. I get your point that the dealer should stock some stuff, and we do keep all of the common failure items for the 1127 saws in stock. Fuel lines, filters, AV plugs, airbox lids, clutch covers, bar nuts, carb kits, vent hoses, fuel caps, oilers and drive assys, start cords handles pawls and springs, etc. We do not stock oil lines and other bits for those saws because they simply do not sell. If you came in and we had an impulse line that had been on the shelf since 1999, would you want it or a new one that was produced last week?

Okay did you read the part about buying a 500 dollar weedeater from them? It was at the end of the day! Give me a break the dude had like 15 minutes before close. I did ask that question here after I found this site. I work on trucks for a living and yes I have people that have some big money being lost with down time. I will still help all customers, if it gets outta hand just put a stop to it and go back to work. So now I will probably never spend ANY money in there. The internet is great to buy from, and I really don't need them anyway. I was the ONLY person in the shop at the time. If it was you, you probably would have been put off by it as well.

I did read about the 130 you bought, and you should be very happy with that trimmer. We have had extremely good service out of all of those 4-mix machines. The only comebacks we have are on new ones that are "breaking up." I guess folks are not used to them banging the rev limiter when unloaded. Make sure you run synthetic oil and check the valves once in a while.

As for the asking questions to the mechanic, yes we almost always help folks out even when it costs us shop time. The shop you went to may have different policies from us. There is no standard Stihl procedures manual when it comes to that. Even if there was, our Stihl rep is NEVER around or interested in phone calls. Did it ever occur to you that at 15 minutes before close, the technician wanted to finish what he was working on before going home for the night? You should understand that as a mechanic. If the guy came up front and spent a bunch of time looking for your decomp plug, then I'd say he already went above the call of duty. Decomp plugs are not something Stihl techs need very often. They are listed in some IPLs and also in the special tools catalog. Anyway, there are great dealers and poor ones. The dealer experience has little to do with the Stihl brand.

If it was you, you probably would have been put off by it as well.

Nice jab. Sorry, I do this stuff because it is fun and I enjoy the challenge of finding a problem. I don't get put off by customers, even cheap ones who buy aftermarket top ends on the internet and then come in and make a stink when we don't have the $10 part they want to complete their prized homeowner special.
 

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