Stihl ms 250 or Echo cs 440 ?

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I love my 250. A big factor for me buying Stihls is there are two large dealers very close to me. I liked some features on Husky's and other saws but I don't want to chase parts. In this part of the world Stihl dealers are common. I have owned or used most of the common brands. The dealer relationship turns out to be as important as anything assuming the saws are similar in specs.
 
It's the first time you've been right Mow. The 250 is so much more PLASTIC . Steve

It's Stihl a better saw. And if you have ever dropped one you would know that it is pretty strong material. The Echo just has no power. Who wants a powerless saw.
 
The plastic case

I have to admit, when I bought my 025 I was a bit skeptical of the plastic case (or whatever material it's made of) but I can tell you since then I've realized it is a very durable material. Even in extreme cold, no problems!

But since we're on the subject and for those who may be concerned......
Has anybody had their "plastic" 025/250 case fail? If so, explain the situation in which it happened and I bet it was an abnormal circumstance. There is plenty of people on here so we can let that subject speak for it's self.
 
I have to admit, when I bought my 025 I was a bit skeptical of the plastic case (or whatever material it's made of) but I can tell you since then I've realized it is a very durable material. Even in extreme cold, no problems!

But since we're on the subject and for those who may be concerned......
Has anybody had their "plastic" 025/250 case fail? If so, explain the situation in which it happened and I bet it was an abnormal circumstance. There is plenty of people on here so we can let that subject speak for it's self.


I think is holds up just great, but it feels like POS, if you understand....:)
 
I see plastic case failure all the time, maybe 3 times a month. Come on a 10 pound saw should be able to hold up to a F150 backing over it, or a full size John Deere tractor driving over it. Actually even in these cases the case holds up but the handle breaks instead.
 
I'm leaning toward the Echo. I'm going to look at one in person as soon as someone gets one in. Since the ice storm all the Home Depot's and smaller places are sold out of the Echo. I did look at the Stihl 250 and it does seem like it has a lot of plastic on it. I heard the Echo cs440 was being phased out for the new vortex style engine that is now in the smaller models. It supposed to be solid orange like the old Echos. It will be a cs441 or cs450 I was told. The new style Echos are using a 1 ring piston that is a rounded ring (supposed to be less friction, run cooler, etc). The cs440 uses the old style 2 ring piston. I don't like trying new stuff so I'll try to get the cs440 before it dissappears.
 
Hey Troll. I should send you my CS510 to use for a while. Then you would be speaking from experience. I used to think Echo's were junk too untill I actually used one. Steve

Dont bother, it would probably snap his wrists from the unfamiliar torque.

He'd probably like the feeling of an unabusive, easy and fun to use saw and get rid of all his trash saws....
 
I'm leaning toward the Echo. I'm going to look at one in person as soon as someone gets one in. Since the ice storm all the Home Depot's and smaller places are sold out of the Echo. I did look at the Stihl 250 and it does seem like it has a lot of plastic on it. I heard the Echo cs440 was being phased out for the new vortex style engine that is now in the smaller models. It supposed to be solid orange like the old Echos. It will be a cs441 or cs450 I was told. The new style Echos are using a 1 ring piston that is a rounded ring (supposed to be less friction, run cooler, etc). The cs440 uses the old style 2 ring piston. I don't like trying new stuff so I'll try to get the cs440 before it dissappears.

The 250 will out run a 440. Neither saw will likely let you down. Of the two saws, I really think that you'll be better off with the 250. Nothing wrong with the 440...the 250 is just a better saw in this class. I am aware of no example where either of these saws has experienced case failure. Now, If you run over a saw with a truck or tractor...that's hardly a failure in the saw...rather, it's a failure in operator head space and timing! :dizzy: Good luck!
 
I think is holds up just great, but it feels like POS, if you understand....:)

Yeah Troll, You're right, no arguement from that angle.

I see plastic case failure all the time, maybe 3 times a month. Come on a 10 pound saw should be able to hold up to a F150 backing over it, or a full size John Deere tractor driving over it. Actually even in these cases the case holds up but the handle breaks instead.

Yeah, it's a faulty design.....guess the echo is the better bet :rolleyes:
I run mine over with a s-10 and it seems to be fine though......:)
 
The 250 will out run a 440. Neither saw will likely let you down. Of the two saws, I really think that you'll be better off with the 250. Nothing wrong with the 440...the 250 is just a better saw in this class. I am aware of no example where either of these saws has experienced case failure. Now, If you run over a saw with a truck or tractor...that's hardly a failure in the saw...rather, it's a failure in operator head space and timing! :dizzy: Good luck!

Yes, sure it is operator error! :censored:
 
saw chain to use?

i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.

also what chain would be recommended for cutting-up oaks down long enough to lose their bark (very dry and not rotten)? been cutting these and in the cold too (read, occasional ice on tree). the chain dulls fast. i believe the chain is an oregon 33sl (came with saw). i am not afraid of non-antikickback chains either.... what would you guys use?
 
i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.

also what chain would be recommended for cutting-up oaks down long enough to lose their bark (very dry and not rotten)? been cutting these and in the cold too (read, occasional ice on tree). the chain dulls fast. i believe the chain is an oregon 33sl (came with saw). i am not afraid of non-antikickback chains either.... what would you guys use?

18" is too much bar for this saw to expect good performance, with the bar buried I would expect that you will need to let the weight of the saw carry you through the cut. If the wood is green you might be able to use the dog a little to bite but not much, better chain will help. That being said I'm leaving mine at 18" because I prefer the extra reach when cutting downed wood and will sacrifice some speed. Make sure you read over this and other posts concerning the factory tuning of the 440. Mountainlake's saws and mine came tuned too lean for local gas...

Try Oregon 20LPfor chain, you need .325 pitch 50 gauge 72 drivers. Others will pitch in thier $.02 on chain but I've cut almost 2 full cords of oak on my 20LP and it is only now just getting to a point where I would think about pulling out a file. 20LP is non-anti kickback chisel chain and cuts real quick. Oregon 20BP is a non-anti kickback semi-chisel which would be good for dirty wood and easier to sharpen, that would be worth a look too. I might get a loop of that just for such circumstances.

I agree the clutch cover is flimsy but acceptable.

Edit to correct terrible spleling and add chain info.
 
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See what I mean about power. The 250 turns an 18" bar with no problem.
 
i just bought the 440 and am pleased with it thus far except...
if you use the whole bar you will bog it,
that the chain seems to need adjusting a little often, and
the clutch cover feels a little 'mickey mouse' to me.

also what chain would be recommended for cutting-up oaks down long enough to lose their bark (very dry and not rotten)? been cutting these and in the cold too (read, occasional ice on tree). the chain dulls fast. i believe the chain is an oregon 33sl (came with saw). i am not afraid of non-antikickback chains either.... what would you guys use?

When you tension the chain, loosen both nuts until you can freely move the bar. Turn the adjuster while holding the bar "up". Until you can pull the chain off the bottom of the bar and it snaps back into contact with the bar rail. Then Tighten both nuts tight, while still holding the bar "up".

The cover has a tang on the back that must slip under a little lip, it's right in the back of the cover, make sure it is engaged if you take the cover off. I see people not do this, and the cover tends to tweak and move around if you pry on it.

18" bar is a good size for this saw, you cant lay on it, you should just let the chain self feed, let it do the work.

Get a new chain, Oregon 20LP072G for clean wood, and 20BP072G for Dirty wood.

If you only have a tank or 2 through the saw, It should become more powerful as time goes on. You are using Echo PowerBlend @ 50:1 with 93 octane right?
 
Stihl vs. Echo

A little off-topic fellas, but the subject of running over saws with trucks and tractors came up and in the 80's I directed my father over his Homelite Super-EZ with a Dodge full-sized truck(unloaded).The saw actually stopped the truck!There was no visible damage to the saw and it still runs to this day.There is very little if any,plastic on this saw.
 
A little off-topic fellas, but the subject of running over saws with trucks and tractors came up and in the 80's I directed my father over his Homelite Super-EZ with a Dodge full-sized truck(unloaded).The saw actually stopped the truck!There was no visible damage to the saw and it still runs to this day.There is very little if any,plastic on this saw.

And how many times do you expect this anamoly to prove to be the standard? You not suppose to run over saws with trucks...they're saws!
 

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