Stihl MS 400 and a 25” bar

[Lightning Performance]

i'm a newbie to chainsaws so forgive my ignorance .........
i got 400c a few weeks ago with the 25 inch bar .
with the oiler turn all the way open it will sling oil on a piece of cardboard .
does that mean it's oiling enough ?
it seems to cut fine ... the better half's son contracted to clear powerlines for several years and came over to teach me how to safely use it and did most of the cutting taking down to medium trees and he said it cuts great .....
FWIU it's when folks go longer than 25 that they have problems .
i got the 25 so i don't have to lean over as much when bucking .

If you are cutting under 20" wood it will be fine for reach.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I’m going to try cutting with the stock oiler at maximum.

If I go the replacement route, it seems like replacing the whole oiler assembly is much easier than the adjustment piston (not sure what to call it). Does anyone have the part number for the 462 oiler assembly?

The price range is $100 difference between a complete pump and a control bolt only. You better run the thinnest oil you can find and keep it hot before you put it in a hot saw. The effects of cold oil and cold saws I can't stress enough.

 

[JeffB1961]

He sells bars.

Yes he does . Any decent equipment dealer stocks consumables and replacement/upgrade parts . Sold me the 400c with the 25 inch bar and chain for $925 . But I understanding that you're saying he lied to me in order to keep selling me bars . i figured i'd upgrade the pump at some point . can you provide info on where to get the "control bolt only" and it's cost ?
and thanks .

 

[sean donato]

It won't oil a 25 in dead ash. You need a control bolt update. Or lift every ten seconds and wet the chain again.

Been there done that. 361 or 362 is the same pump. 460 or 461R pump is the to make you money.

Ash, locust,oak... about any other hard wood when it dries out. Just sucks the oil right out of the chain. Oils cheap.

 

[JeffB1961]

sooooo ...... how do i know if my bar is not being oiled enough when cutting something ?
got a jug of stihl woodcutter with the saw . but i plan to order some "Coastal ITASCA Chain Saw Bar Lubricant" because ........ richard flagg like it , hahaha .

 

[Lightning Performance]

Yes he does . Any decent equipment dealer stocks consumables and replacement/upgrade parts . Sold me the 400c with the 25 inch bar and chain for $925 . But I understanding that you're saying he lied to me in order to keep selling me bars . i figured i'd upgrade the pump at some point . can you provide info on where to get the "control bolt only" and it's cost ?
and thanks .

1128 R model oil pump control bolt. It was already listed here or in another recently active thread about the oil pumps.

If your limbing it's fine for reach or small log bucking. Buried in dry wood is a recipe for problems.

 

[Lightning Performance]

sooooo ...... how do i know if my bar is not being oiled enough when cutting something ?
got a jug of stihl woodcutter with the saw . but i plan to order some "Coastal ITASCA Chain Saw Bar Lubricant" because ........ richard flagg like it , hahaha .

Buck a fat log and stop after 20 seconds. If the chain drivers are dry or you feel excessive heat in the bar edge it isn't enough oil. The rail will clog quickly and the tip bearing will start heating up. Keep going and the tip will burn you on that stop and check it deal.

Remember to stop in the cut. Most times the chip load will jam the chain and you need to pull on the saw a bit. DO NOT spin the chain before checking the bar rail and the tip.

Many say to check the chain straps for oil. I'm not concern with what left the rail but what remains in the rail and the nose bearing.

 

[Lightning Performance]

sooooo ...... how do i know if my bar is not being oiled enough when cutting something ?
got a jug of stihl woodcutter with the saw . but i plan to order some "Coastal ITASCA Chain Saw Bar Lubricant" because ........ richard flagg like it , hahaha .

Itasca is good bar oil.
Watch your bar oil weights. Thinner oil moves faster. Hotter oil moves faster.

 

[JeffB1961]

i was gonna ask if not getting enough oil in the winter is more of a problem than in the summer because heat thins the oil but your thinner oil comment kinda applies there . but i hope to only be cutting during spring and summer for our boiler because i can't handle the cold like i use to . i'm just gonna be cutting for our boiler , zero plans to sell wood .

 

[Lightning Performance]

Posted in the wrong thread
Deleted

 

[bwalker]

sooooo ...... how do i know if my bar is not being oiled enough when cutting something ?
got a jug of stihl woodcutter with the saw . but i plan to order some "Coastal ITASCA Chain Saw Bar Lubricant" because ........ richard flagg like it , hahaha .

Starts off with a comment on "no nonsense" then proceeds to dispense a bunch of nonsense.

 

[bwalker]

Buck a fat log and stop after 20 seconds. If the chain drivers are dry or you feel excessive heat in the bar edge it isn't enough oil. The rail will clog quickly and the tip bearing will start heating up. Keep going and the tip will burn you on that stop and check it deal.

Remember to stop in the cut. Most times the chip load will jam the chain and you need to pull on the saw a bit. DO NOT spin the chain before checking the bar rail and the tip.

Many say to check the chain straps for oil. I'm not concern with what left the rail but what remains in the rail and the nose bearing.

The rail steel is much harder than the soft chain steel. The chain and to a lesser extent the roller tip bearing is what needs the lube the most.

 

[bwalker]

I am a proponent of cheap bar oil and lots of it.

 

[JeffB1961]

i can get 4 gallons of itasca delivered to my door for $47.77 .
a better deal is always appreciated .
care to share ?

 

[bwalker]

i can get 4 gallons of itasca delivered to my door for $47.77 .
a better deal is always appreciated .
care to share ?

It's so dependant on area it's hard to say.
That's not a bad price BTW.

 

[huskihl]

Replacing just the control bolt doesn’t gain much if any. There’s nothing to move the pump piston further. Replacing the piston is a small gain. Replacing both the piston and control bolt with 461R parts is a large gain

 

[firebox40dash5]

can you provide info on where to get the "control bolt only" and it's cost ?
and thanks .

They were just under $8 when I bought them last year.

Wish I'd known about it years ago, my 260 was chronically stingy & I cooked a bar or two (running a 20", which was kinda silly) bsck then... the bolt fixed that right up, too.

 

[bwalker]

They were just under $8 when I bought them last year.

Wish I'd known about it years ago, my 260 was chronically stingy & I cooked a bar or two (running a 20", which was kinda silly) bsck then... the bolt fixed that right up, too.

As @huskihl mentioned the bolt alone won't do much if anything. When you pull the pump apart it's pretty apparent.

 

[bwalker]

The other thing is. I have done the control bolt and piston swap and I have replaced the whole pump. To my eye the whole pump puts put more oil than the swap.

 

[muddy42]

For a few cuts I think it’ll work. Naturally have the bar grove and hole scrupulously clean. Sharp chain. Remove clutch and oil pump and spray wd40 into the lines. Thin your oil a bit. When bucking, have a boy pump oil into the saw cut directly onto the bar. For these aux oiling situations with a hand pump, I use any old cheap oil.