Stihl MS170 intake manifold boot

[goosemaster]

I'm doing an engine replacement on a Stihl MS 170 chainsaw and I thought I'd ask this question about what is the simplest way to install the intake manifold boot when I go to put the engine back in the saw? I noticed it was a very tight fit when I took the engine out. So if anyone has a good way of putting it back in I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance to any and all who respond.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've done three of those lately and the best way I've found is to put the manifold on the engine, put the plastic ring on it, helps to put a little silicone or oil on the flange of the manifold then install the engine, don't put the bolts in yet, carefully pulling the manifold flange into the hole in the firewall with a pair of needle nose or medical forceps like I use. After you get the flange where it belongs then install the bolts. I usually have to drill a hole in the plastic handle to get one of the front engine bolts in. I never take the handle off the saw just to change the engine..

 

[goosemaster]

I've done three of those lately and the best way I've found is to put the manifold on the engine, put the plastic ring on it, helps to put a little silicone or oil on the flange of the manifold then install the engine, carefully pulling the manifold flange into the hole in the firewall with a pair of needle nose or medical forceps like I use. I've never tried putting it on the engine last..

Thanks a.palmer jr: I'll try that.

 

[goosemaster]

Also; wouldn't a hose clamp on the intake boot be less likely for an air leak than using that plastic ring?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Also; wouldn't a hose clamp on the intake boot be less likely for an air leak than using that plastic ring?

Maybe, but it might make it harder to install. Also it's hard to find a clamp that size and width. The plastic rings seem to work okay though, I've never noticed them leaking.

 

[SteveSr]

I'm doing an engine replacement on a Stihl MS 170 chainsaw and I thought I'd ask this question about what is the simplest way to install the intake manifold boot when I go to put the engine back in the saw? I noticed it was a very tight fit when I took the engine out. So if anyone has a good way of putting it back in I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance to any and all who respond.

Stihl recommends a "magic" string. Wrap a piece of stout string / nylon mason line about twice around the manifold. Feed the ends through the opening in the tank housing. Now pull on the ends of the string to pull the manifold through the hole in the tank housing.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Stihl recommends a "magic" string. Wrap a piece of stout string / nylon mason line about twice around the manifold. Feed the ends through the opening in the tank housing. Now pull on the ends of the string to pull the manifold through the hole in the tank housing.

Might be worth a try. Maybe fishing line?

 

[Jasonrkba]

Hose clamp would eventually cut the boot. The ring works fine. I put it on the engine then install the engine. Pull the boot through gently with needle nose. Those rubber boots are always touch and go but they are stronger than they look. Just take your time.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I will say that for a clamshell saw, the 170-180 saws are a bit easier to change engines in than the 250 or the 290 Stihls.

 

[TheTone]

Also; wouldn't a hose clamp on the intake boot be less likely for an air leak than using that plastic ring?

It would be except for the fact that in this model the ring is tightly held in place by the heads of the two bolts that the carb is mounted to. Once the engine bolts are tightened, it can't move. Compare that with, say, the 034, where there is a loose space between the clamp and the intake flange mount. Oh, and the string method is the official Stihl method for pulling the manifold flange through. I only wrap it around once, because it's easier to compress the manifold this way - less friction when you pull the ends of the string in opposite directions to pinch it and then through the hole.