Stihl MS210c flooding out

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

billkater

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 5, 2017
Messages
21
Reaction score
1
Location
Olney, IL
I have a ms210c easy start saw. It has a bad habit of flooding out when you shut it off. As long as I let it run there is no problem. But as soon as I shut it off it won't start again. Give it a day or dry it out and it will start right up again.

Where should I start? Carb rebuild? Tank not venting so when it gets hot it pressures up? Or should I just trade it in on a new model that isn't the easy start?

Thanks for the help

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
I have a ms210c easy start saw. It has a bad habit of flooding out when you shut it off. As long as I let it run there is no problem. But as soon as I shut it off it won't start again. Give it a day or dry it out and it will start right up again.

Where should I start? Carb rebuild? Tank not venting so when it gets hot it pressures up? Or should I just trade it in on a new model that isn't the easy start?

Thanks for the help

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I would go through the carb and make sure it’s clean, only think I would think that would allow a saw to flood like that when it’s off is if their was dirt down in the hole where the needle valve seats or something, or maybe a stiff diaphragm, I’ve never had this particular issue with a saw though and I’ve worked on many of them. What shape is the air filter in? I wouldn’t think it would be a tank venting issue, if it were me I’d go through the carb and just check it out and make sure everything okay and clean, and depending on how old the saw is or if it had sat with fuel in it for a long period of time maybe rebuild the carb if cleaning it doesn’t solve the problem, only time I’ve had a saw flood out is from either leaving it on choke too long or over priming it with the primer bulb, or if someone set the hi or low needles on the carb too rich
 
The saw hasn't been used much. Couple tanks of gas a year maybe. Get sick of fighting it and put it back on the shelf. No primer bulb on this saw. New filter (I replace them way to soon) and plug.

I will start with a carb kit. If I'm gonna take it off to clean I may as well rebuild it.

Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
The saw hasn't been used much. Couple tanks of gas a year maybe. Get sick of fighting it and put it back on the shelf. No primer bulb on this saw. New filter (I replace them way to soon) and plug.

I will start with a carb kit. If I'm gonna take it off to clean I may as well rebuild it.

Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
No problem! If it only sees a couple takes a year I would definitely go through/ rebuild the carb, and maybe even throw a new fuel filter in it, I’ve had saws have carb issues from only sitting for a few months, today’s gas is not very friendly towards carburetors in general
 
If it floods after shutting down it is usually because the inlet valve isn't being held closed with enough force to withstand the pressure that normally builds up in the fuel tank of a hot running saw. The tank vent lets air in, not supposed to let it out. Before taking the carb off, just drain the tank and remove the fuel line to the carb, then pressure test the carb and check the pop-off pressure of the carb, it should hold pressure without opening until at least 10 psi and if it is less, you know before you remove the carb that there is a problem with the inlet valve or it's seat or the control lever that operates it.
 
As stated above the "flooding" could be due to faulty starting procedure for a hot saw. If a saw is properly tuned and has just been shut off for a few minutes, MOST will start with one or two pulls without touching the throttle, however, if it doesn't start with a few pulls, it isn't going to unless the throttle is opened. Most saws have a way of setting the carb to fast idle without closing the choke, something you do not want to do with a hot saw. With some saws you have to move the choke lever to full choke and then back to a fast idle position where the throttle is latched partly open until the trigger is blipped. Do you have an owners manual? They usually describe how to get to a fast idle with no choke for your saw.
 
After you shut the chainsaw off, and then wish to restart, do not choke the saw.
Still curious about the ez-start/primer bulb question.
On restart I do not choke or set the saw to fast idle. I move the selector switch down one clock to on. I give it 3 or 4 pulls. If it doesn't fire I will then pull trigger, move selector switch all the way down (choke). Let go of trigger and move selector switch up one (fast idle).

I have tried it the above way. I have tried to choke it before any pulls. I have tried to set it to fast idle before any pulls. All results are the same. Saw floods.

There is no primer bulb.

The ez-start is where you pull the rope to put tension on some kind of spring. At a certain point the spring releases and turns over the engine. You don't have to pull fast or hard to turn over the engine.



Attached are pictures of the saw, serial number tag, ect.
103afc53818afa7260ffb516cad77d77.jpg
3987326ca7e0cfb6c362c7bf9848bbda.jpg
7adc4b87c22c9da6f14f11fc301a7ddd.jpg
07994aca3008baccf601e864659eaa3c.jpg
2ed754a6b4845edb79a121b1b522ec2b.jpg
bc4989aace7eb143b1917c2b0ed7f722.jpg
1df5ff760c64e374d0d1c2561b0e7f5c.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
I guess that the ms210 doesn't have the primer bulb, I apologize. We pretty much only saw the MS250 around here, and never the ms230. The distributor's attitude was why bother with the 210 and 230.
I suggest that when you restart, click the lever to the second position, with the throttle opened. Try that before getting into too much, as that is how I start my 029.
 
If you use the saw with the carburetor shown in your last picture, it is no wonder that it floods out. You have to adjust the inlet control lever. On your picture the lever is set way to high. The lever has to be set flush through careful bending with the carb body.

Did you use a set of new diaphragms and gaskets? I hope, the old ones don`t look good anymore.
 
What is that squiggly thing?
a used carb condom?
Came out of carb. Guessing it is leftovers from dried out gas.

I did use new gaskets/diaphragm. No more than they cost and how hard it is to get off, I would never reuse old ones.

That last picture was of when I took it apart. It was nowhere near that high when I put it back together.

Started on 4th pull. 3 with choke on. Switched to fast idle, one pull and started..

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top