Stihl MS241-CM needs a new bar - which one?

[Sid Post]

The sprocket tip on the Stihl 16" bar is causing problems with high drag and bogging my saw so, I need to start looking for a replacement. With today's supply chain and staffing shortages, I am wondering what are my better options and where I should be shopping.

I would appreciate something with more than the 55 drive links of the Stihl 16" bar (0.050" 3/8). I do a lot of reaching to catch vines and light thin trees in heavily overgrown areas in addition to general tree work felling and climbing. I'm thinking of either an 18" or 20" lightweight bar replacement but, I am open to other suggestions.

TIA,
Sid

 

[Chevboy0167]

Looks like the 18" may be the max "recommended".....

https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p...[3].name=obsolete&fixedFilters[3].value=false

 

[irhunter]

I do a lot of reaching to catch vines and light thin trees in heavily overgrown areas in addition to general tree work felling and climbing.

TIA,
Sid

You are running one saw for vines, felling, and climbing?

Stihl recommends no more than a 18" bar running 3/8LP chain. I would say, that limit seems reasonable if you are not cutting wood so large that the bar is buried a lot.

What brand/model bar do you have now? Are you OK with it's longevity?

Roy

 

[Sid Post]

I'm running the factory Stihl bar which doesn't have the replaceable tip. It is listed as a 16" bar but, is a bit short and a bit optimistic for a bar listed at 16" IMHO. Cost and service life are okay but, now that I am at the point of buying a new bar, I want to consider getting something that may work better for me today since I am using it for more than simply limbing already downed trees.

Regarding climbing, none of that with this saw! A lot of the nuisance trees I cut would be massive overkill with my MS362-CM.

The vines have thorns on them and will easily trip me or restrict my arm movements so, I generally take a few swipes to make a safe area to retreat to if the tree falls in an expected direction and to make sure my arm is free to move during the cut. Plus I clear anything that will scratch my face or possibly get under the helmet/muffs to make my ears or cheeks bleed.

With the low pro chain, I am a little cautious about a "true" 20" bar since I wonder if the chain will jump out of the bar guide if I go this long. A true 18" bar would be a meaningful increase in "reach" but, 20" would be better if it isn't too much or excessively "nose" heavy.

Lastly, I want to also make sure I have enough oil capacity to not burn or overheat the chain if I bury it into bigger wood while cutting it to firewood lengths.

 

[irhunter]

Bailey's doesn't show a 20" 3/8LP bar in that mount. That is not to say, they don't exist...but...

 

[Sid Post]

Bailey's doesn't show a 20" 3/8LP bar in that mount. That is not to say, they don't exist...but...

The Cannon bar is currently out of stock but, was listed on Bailey's as being available in the future. It is also listed on the Cannon website and at other retailers.

 

[John Lyngdal]

Short lightweight bars don't really change the balance of a saw due to the small weight reduction and short lever moment.
They are a blessing on long bars.

 

[Del_]

This might be a good time to switch to 63PS chain. It's faster cutting.

 

[Sid Post]

This might be a good time to switch to 63PS chain. It's faster cutting.

View attachment 1089599

I have thought about that but the narrow Kerf chain works really well for me. I do have mixed feelings about the green anti-kickback chain though.

 

[KostasVolos]

The only difference I've noticed regarding the green low kickback "safety" chains vs the yellow ordinary ones ,is that with the former a bar tip bore cut ( aka "nose burying " )is a PITA.This and the bumper & depth gauges filling .

 

[John Lyngdal]

I have 63PS chains on some of my smaller saws and they cut really nice.

 

[Doorfx]

I run an 18” bar with the 3/8” LP non safety chain and it cuts and oils fine. I only cut softwoods spruce, pine and rarely fir.

 

[Franny K]

Sid,

Stihl offers a called length 18" bar in that 63 class picco or in brand x terms 3/8lp,0.050 in the 3005 bar mount for your saw. It is for 61 drive links but can use 62 with the 7 tooth rim drive set up that Stihl offers.

As for alternative choices I got from Baileys an universal mount .325 18" 72 drive link NK bar. Also need to change to.325 drive which could be a sprur or rim drive set up. I would go with Stihl mini spline as then you can run both picco and .325. Universal mount because it is a generic dl count. The Stihl 23rspro code 3690 is great but there are others.

 

[Sid Post]

I run an 18” bar with the 3/8” LP non safety chain and it cuts and oils fine. I only cut softwoods spruce, pine and rarely fir.

I cut some hardwood so, I don't want to burn my chain with lack of oil. It sounds like an 18" bar is probably the best compromise of everything to consider. Generally, I don't cut a lot of big wood though so, that isn't a primary concern other than not want the chain to pull off the guide bar if buried in some Texas Red Oak or to burn the chain.

 

[Doorfx]

Mine oils exactly as it should. 1 tank gas to almost a tank of oil. I did turn the oiler up to max.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I’m running a 16 on my ported 261 with an 8 pin, no chance I’d run a 18, much less a 20 on a stock 241 but I like my stuff fast.

 

[Doorfx]

Does the ms170 have the same bar mount as the ms241c-m ?

 

[Sid Post]

I think it does but, I haven't seen an MS170. The other limbing saws I looked at had the same bar mount.

 

[SteveSr]

I think it does but, I haven't seen an MS170. The other limbing saws I looked at had the same bar mount.

The MS170 should be a 3005 mount while the MS241 should be a 3003 mount.

BTW, if the rest of the bar is serviceable the nose sprocket can be replaced.

 

[Sid Post]

The MS170 should be a 3005 mount while the MS241 should be a 3003 mount.

BTW, if the rest of the bar is serviceable the nose sprocket can be replaced.

My MS241-CM is 3005. My bar doesn't have a replaceable nose sprocket.