Stihl ms250-hard to pull start rope

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I've got an old Stihl ms250 that has gradually gotten about impossible to start. I just broke the second pull rope out of it--it feels like it's got too much compression. Once started it runs and cuts great. I took the muffler off and looked at the piston, it doesn't appear to have much carbon built up on it. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be??
I too have experienced this and can only chop it up to they just have alot of compression. I'm thinking of adding a compression release to mine. Cause its literally sheared the flywheel key just from starting it.
 
I had a 291 that would rip the handle out of my hand on starting. It seemed that the timing was advanced just enough that it would spark before TDC and try to reverse the rotation. A new coil fixed it. Just a thought. But I can't see where a coil would "get worse"; the 291 did it from the first time I started it. (It wasn't new; was a pawn shop find.)
That was probably the best way it could of bein though cause increasing the timing on any saw gives them a noticeable power and rpm gain. At high rpm the coil can't keep up with the speed of the magnets on the flywheel so adding a couple degrees of timing really helps these little guys rev out like they should. Yea sometimes you get some wrist ripping kick back but there are things to do to avoid it starting with the type or combination of juice she's drinking. Hurts like a sob though. Almost as bad as one from my kx250 dirtbike. That ****er will actually break your foot if your not wearing proper footware.
 
Some people get lucky with $15 carbs, but I've had nothing but bad luck. I just bought a proline for $50 which worked perfectly out of the box. Have you checked the woodruff key? I know it's unlikely, but it happens occasionally.
Happened to meeee.lol stihl wasn't thinking when they molded it into the flywheel instead of have a separate steel key and 2 sluts to line up. Lol
 
I've got an old Stihl ms250 that has gradually gotten about impossible to start. I just broke the second pull rope out of it--it feels like it's got too much compression. Once started it runs and cuts great. I took the muffler off and looked at the piston, it doesn't appear to have much carbon built up on it. Anybody got any ideas what the problem could be??
I suggest you take off the recoil assembly and inspect it carefully. I believe that it is wore out and you need a new assembly. Try spraying it down with some silicone lubricant and if that solves the issue then in my opinion that is the problem. I have a Husqvarna 266 SE with the same issue. Acted like it was hydrostaticly locked up. I disassembled it, found very little carbon but did find where the recoil assembly was binding against the pulley retainer. A little bit of lubricant and it worked just fine. Good luck and please let me know what you discover.
 
I too have experienced this and can only chop it up to they just have alot of compression. I'm thinking of adding a compression release to mine. Cause its literally sheared the flywheel key just from starting it.
Most likely it's the starter pawls. I don't know what it looks like, but a bit of wear/damage, , jams the pawls into the flyhweel at the wrong angle, and causes lock-up. take the starter appart, and see what you see, , ,Parts are cheap, and an easy fix, don't overlook the obvious. Much luck
 
I too have experienced this and can only chop it up to they just have alot of compression. I'm thinking of adding a compression release to mine. Cause its literally sheared the flywheel key just from starting it.
Most likely it's the starter pawls. I don't know what it looks like, but a bit of wear/damage, , jams the pawls into the flyhweel at the wrong angle, and causes lock-up. take the starter appart, and see what you see, , ,Parts are cheap, and an easy fix, don't overlook the obvious. Much luck
 
I suggest you take off the recoil assembly and inspect it carefully. I believe that it is wore out and you need a new assembly. Try spraying it down with some silicone lubricant and if that solves the issue then in my opinion that is the problem. I have a Husqvarna 266 SE with the same issue. Acted like it was hydrostaticly locked up. I disassembled it, found very little carbon but did find where the recoil assembly was binding against the pulley retainer. A little bit of lubricant and it worked just fine. Good luck and please let me know what you discover.
I put a cheap replacement recoil assembly on mine. Only tried it once so far but a vast improvement. Didn't act like it was hydro locked.
I'm sure somethings out of whack with the factory unit. Next several days I'll see what I can determine.
 
I put a snowmobile pull handle on mine. The pull is just as hard but you can put four fingers into the handle and can also start it wearing mittens in cold weather.
 
The 025 cranking was made for a physical workout when cranking even when new, but if the crank bearings separator are broken they are even harder to crank.

Get yourself toughened up and quit whining or get yourself an electric chainsaw.
 
The 025 cranking was made for a physical workout when cranking even when new, but if the crank bearings separator are broken they are even harder to crank.

Get yourself toughened up and quit whining or get yourself an electric chainsaw.
Thanks @Okie! That's the kind of input i come to AS for. There are plenty of reports to indicate that the MS-250 has issues, thanks for help in solving for us.
Suggestions on how to "toughen up"?
 
Since I haven't toughened up much lately I went out and bought an electric weed whacker, a 56volt version and although a bit heavy, exceeded my expectations in every way. I was surprised at how long it can be used on a single charge.
 
The 025 cranking was made for a physical workout when cranking even when new, but if the crank bearings separator are broken they are even harder to crank.

Get yourself toughened up and quit whining or get yourself an electric chainsaw.
Sundance: I'm speaking from experience here.

I bought a 025 dirt cheap sometime back, as is, and it was very hard to crank over. The saw looked really clean and taken care of but, but
I would start and run but just did not seem correct. I have larger stihls that cranked over easier.
It finally god to where it would indicate a hard erratic pull with the spark plug out and pulling the rope slow. Removed side cover and turned flywheel by and and it actually locked, could reverse the flywheel rotation and it would turn backwards for awhile and get tight again.
The guys on AS steered me towards the bearings and when I tore it down the plzstic bearing separator were broken and would get between some of the roller and make them slide and lock.
Now the 025 turns smooth, etc, but it's a brute to start, not as user friendly to crank over and start as my other larger saws. It's not my favorite saw

I see lots of complaints about the 025 hard cranking issues:

Summary: remove the spark plug and turn it over slow several times and see if you can detect any indication that it will get harder then maybe smoother. If so check the plastic bearing separators.
I used a better bearing in mine that has a steel cage separator.
 
Sundance: I'm speaking from experience here.

I bought a 025 dirt cheap sometime back, as is, and it was very hard to crank over. The saw looked really clean and taken care of but, but
I would start and run but just did not seem correct. I have larger stihls that cranked over easier.
It finally god to where it would indicate a hard erratic pull with the spark plug out and pulling the rope slow. Removed side cover and turned flywheel by and and it actually locked, could reverse the flywheel rotation and it would turn backwards for awhile and get tight again.
The guys on AS steered me towards the bearings and when I tore it down the plzstic bearing separator were broken and would get between some of the roller and make them slide and lock.
Now the 025 turns smooth, etc, but it's a brute to start, not as user friendly to crank over and start as my other larger saws. It's not my favorite saw

I see lots of complaints about the 025 hard cranking issues:

Summary: remove the spark plug and turn it over slow several times and see if you can detect any indication that it will get harder then maybe smoother. If so check the plastic bearing separators.
I used a better bearing in mine that has a steel cage separator.
Okie.....with all the info it's much more helpful. I might have to check the bearings, mines quite the beast to start.
 
Sundance: I just now noticed that this thread was about a MS250 and you indicate yours is a 025. Don't want to send you down the wrong path.
I'm no expert. My saw is a MS250 and very hard to pull through even after the new bearings swap and NOT A 025.
here is a link on this site to where I got guidance for replacing the bearing, a Stihl Service manual, etc.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/ms250-need-expert-advice.319343/#post-6533110I do not know if your 025 uses same type bearings, etc.
You might want to start a new thread about such since this is a MS250 thread. (and ask about Service manual, etc.

A guy by the handle of Harley T is very savy about Service manual and hands on type stihl experience.
 
Sundance: I just now noticed that this thread was about a MS250 and you indicate yours is a 025. Don't want to send you down the wrong path.
I'm no expert. My saw is a MS250 and very hard to pull through even after the new bearings swap and NOT A 025.
here is a link on this site to where I got guidance for replacing the bearing, a Stihl Service manual, etc.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/ms250-need-expert-advice.319343/#post-6533110I do not know if your 025 uses same type bearings, etc.
You might want to start a new thread about such since this is a MS250 thread. (and ask about Service manual, etc.

A guy by the handle of Harley T is very savy about Service manual and hands on type stihl experience.
Mine's a MS250.
 
I went out to the garage to start a couple of saws today and now I have the same problem with my Husqvarna 61. I finished putting it together last summer and it started pretty good but today I couldn't even get it to turn over, extremely hard to pull from ground or drop start. I took the sparkplug out and it turned over very easily, put it back in and impossible for me to pull it over. Yes, I'm in the 75 plus category but I think this would be hard for anybody to pull. I guess I'll start by draining the gas and turning it upside down in case there's fuel in the crankcase..Too bad this old beauty didn't come with a compression release..
 
Well, I took my own advice and went out and drained the fuel from the 61. I jerked on it a few times and it still wouldn't do anything so I remembered a trick my step dad used to do. He removed the spark plug and took a match and held it over the hole and it usually burned the fuel out of the cylinder. In my case it did nothing, which showed me the wet sparkplug must not have been wet with anything burnable. After draining the tank I stuck a little good fuel mix in the hole and it fired right up. It's hard to pull over still but at least I can get it to start. I must have had some bad gas in it.
 
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