spindrift7mm
Changing the World One Saw at a time !
I believe that the 029s is same size as ms290 with the old 029 being smaller. The muffler modded ms390 with a good tune will hold it's own with a stock 361 even though it's heavier.
Stihl MS290 F/B upgrade??
- Thread starter HusqyStihl
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
drf255
BAD CAD
I have a muff mod 390. Holds it's own against an 038 mag, for real.
I'd personally mod your muffler, leave it as a 290, and invest in another saw.
You're showing symptoms and signs of early CAD (Chainsaw Addictive Disorder).
No man can be happy with less than 10 saws.
Leave it a 290, buy a busted 044 or 066, and rebuild.
I'd personally mod your muffler, leave it as a 290, and invest in another saw.
You're showing symptoms and signs of early CAD (Chainsaw Addictive Disorder).
No man can be happy with less than 10 saws.
Leave it a 290, buy a busted 044 or 066, and rebuild.
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
MM complete. After stopping by to pickup a buddies weedwacker to see if i could get it running and damn did he have a nice garage with 5 or 6 motorcycles up on lifts. Gives me 2 chainsaws to keep wether or not i can get his wacker goin :O ok ill take it, Homelite and Stihl. 5 minutes and i got the "hasn't run for years" running but needs a good cleaning and tune. And the second was a dropped Stihl 045AV i wanna say. Complete rear handle missing. Well anyway, dremeled into the. Stihl MS290 muffler so no turnin back now, took out all the indented part, and about 45% on the cover in front. We shall see once i dig up a tach
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
I wont argue, i think yesterdays find put me over 11 or 12 not including demo saws. Im gonna need a bigger boat!
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Whats these Stihl 045's worth anyway? Fixing it or parting it out??
drf255
BAD CAD
You were supposed to hollow out the area around the indent, and maybe a small hole in the indent.
It's no big deal, you just bypassed the baffle completely. It's gonna be a little louder, that's all.
That's a model that's really choked up from the factory. You'll be amazed at the difference.
I still don't understand the need for quiet saws. Doesn't everyone wear hearing protection anyway?
Roll Tide
Trolltide
You did just fine bud. It will be loud but that's the way I've always done them. As for the 045 I had one that I ended up selling before I fixed. How's that saw ?
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Sorry it took me awhile, i was just trying to wash the blood out of my ears! GD its loud! Ive read alot of posts on here about tuning after and im still without a tach (broke mine) so im having trouble in all areas, keeping it idling, sounds like its way to fast at WOT, great throttle response and i can usually get it to idle fine at startup but after WOT it wants to crap out unless i give it some juice. Its got the normal markings on both H & L and id assume that they are out the window after a MM. Is there any recommended starting turns for H & L after a mod like this or is it all based on tach'ing it out? I dont wanna run it lean or damage anything so ive been pretty worried about running it for the moment until i can get another tach...
Roll Tide
Trolltide
Turn them all the way clockwise, than counterclockwise a full turn. That will get you in the ball park. As for your low setting it should idle smoothly and when given full throttle snap right up in RPMs with no lag. High should be set to where it 4 strokes out of wood then when put in wood ( with a good sharp chain) it should clear out. The 4 stroking sound should be very obvious with the muffler mod.
drf255
BAD CAD
Having done the MM on an 039 in the last year, I believe you need to start the H needle 1 1/4-1 1/2 out. I believe factory is 1 out, so it's richer than that. Pretty sure it was 1 1/4.
Richer is safer. Listen to some videos on what 4 stroking sounds like.
Like Roll said, 4 stroking out of the wood and cleans up in the cut.
Tachs are great to see where you're at, but once you modify a saw beyond factory, they're useless for tune. You have to go by ear. Factory tach ratings are documented when the factory figures out that a certain fixed combo of parts on a given saw at a particular tune will run at that RPM if the mixture is set right. Once you change any of the variables listed above, the situation changes.
If you modify a saw and it breathes better, there's a very good chance that it will tach out higher in proper tune.
Richer is safer. Listen to some videos on what 4 stroking sounds like.
Like Roll said, 4 stroking out of the wood and cleans up in the cut.
Tachs are great to see where you're at, but once you modify a saw beyond factory, they're useless for tune. You have to go by ear. Factory tach ratings are documented when the factory figures out that a certain fixed combo of parts on a given saw at a particular tune will run at that RPM if the mixture is set right. Once you change any of the variables listed above, the situation changes.
If you modify a saw and it breathes better, there's a very good chance that it will tach out higher in proper tune.
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Loving the replies and help, great weather so ive been out cutting with the Husq 36 for giggles and poops all morning. Havin fun. Dodnt want to run the 290 untik i know its good. Started it up for a friend and he wanted to play so bad. I did to, it just screams!!
Roll Tide
Trolltide
Man run that thing!! It ain't gonna tune itself haha Just listen to what the saw is telling you when your running it. Youll do fine tunning it !
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
after pulling the limiter caps with a drywall swcrew, under the pins heads were a very small rubber o-ring, these suppsed to stay or go???
If the mixture screws are a bit loose from removing the limiters, that oring may help to alleviate that and may keep the screws from backing out on their own
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Ahhh, so i should def put them back in then huh. I removed them carefully so shouldnt be a problem to re-install. Save the limited caps which i might add did very little damage to them by using an old "screwdriver?" That has almost like a screw end to it so in reality you could barely tell they were messed with. Ive heard of replacing them anyway after optimum setting has been achieved to prevent any movement and that what i intended to do if thats possible. Ill place the o-rings back in tonight or tomorrow as i plan on tuning it this week depending on the weather.
With the MM, should i be ok running a bigger bar?? Not talking huge "Piltz" bar, maybe a 20.. 24??? Pushing it?
With the MM, should i be ok running a bigger bar?? Not talking huge "Piltz" bar, maybe a 20.. 24??? Pushing it?
You could run any size bar you want on it if it'll oil it. Mm won't make a difference in that. But the saw will be borderline on oiling more than a 20". I run 20's on mine with the oiler turned all the way up
Roll Tide
Trolltide
Id toss those caps. They are useless. If you put them back on then your gonna have to remove them again at some point. Better to just leave them off. I wouldn't put a 24" on it the oiler couldn't keep up.
HusqyStihl
ArboristSite Guru
Roll Tide
Trolltide
Well if I was you I'd get another deflector for that muffler. I usually wouldn't cut a hole in it. I bet its loud as hell ! You can run it like that just make sure you don't catch the wood your cutting on fire lol.
Roll Tide
Trolltide
Take the deflecter off and take a pic of your mod to the muffler if you don't mind sir.
