Stihl MS881 who has one

[Mad3400]

Good Afternoon,

If anyone on here has run the Egan Straight Shot on an 881R,

Does the Exhaust hit the handle like the Bark Box?

Thanks,
Mad3400

 

[StihlPotlicker]

But... Did you get a free set of shades and a hat?

I got a free Stihl tumbler when I bought mine, or was it a free 881 when i bought the tumbler LOL

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Stihl part # 3002 000 9731 is a 25" ES bar in .404 x .063. I just changed the nose and the drive sprocket to 3/8" and I got what I wanted. I don't know if that bar is made in .050 (I doubt it) but I run .063 on everything but my mini saw anyway so that set up was perfect.

If you want to impress your friends put a 10 tooth racing sprocket with full comp chisel/chisel set at .040 (or deeper if you have soft wood) on that saw/bar/chain combination and watch the jaws drop. Actually, don't watch the jaws. Watch what your doing. It's scary fast.

I set up a 9-pin .404" x 0.63" Full-Chisel Full Comp OEM depth gauge (I *think* factory is 0.030"?) this weekend with +1 DL&cutter (81 cutters instead of 80)--that's really, really tight on a 25" ES bar. Working on a longer chain (82 cutters) for the 10-pin.

You are right, it's fast (9-pin with more on tap for a 10-pin). There were chips pouring out the bottom of the saw housing and a 10' stream of chips off the top of the bar--why is that??? Saw/chain/bar is stock.

 

[ZinTrees]

I set up a 9-pin .404" x 0.63" Full-Chisel Full Comp OEM depth gauge (I *think* factory is 0.030"?) this weekend with +1 DL&cutter (81 cutters instead of 80)--that's really, really tight on a 25" ES bar. Working on a longer chain (82 cutters) for the 10-pin.

You are right, it's fast (9-pin with more on tap for a 10-pin). There were chips pouring out the bottom of the saw housing and a 10' stream of chips off the top of the bar--why is that??? Saw/chain/bar is stock.

the 881 has a ton of torque but slower chain speed, isnt stock an 8 pin on these?
by going to a 9 pin I imagine you are getting the chain speed back to where it would normally be on any other saw and 2 or 3 times the torque, so you can really lean into it
ive found I leave my rakers about the same as any other saw, if the chain is suuuuper sharp i can get away with some super deep depth of cut but as soon as it dulls I find I end up with a lot of binding up in the cut

 

[Long Bar 60]

the 881 has a ton of torque but slower chain speed, isnt stock an 8 pin on these?
by going to a 9 pin I imagine you are getting the chain speed back to where it would normally be on any other saw and 2 or 3 times the torque, so you can really lean into it
ive found I leave my rakers about the same as any other saw, if the chain is suuuuper sharp i can get away with some super deep depth of cut but as soon as it dulls I find I end up with a lot of binding up in the cut

I only did that to impress some friends. Those pin type racing sprockets won't hold up for daily production cutting and I only took the rakers down that low to again, impress some friends. I did that probably 20+ years ago on an 084 and don't remember chips coming out the top... but man they sure came out the bottom! LOL

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

the 881 has a ton of torque but slower chain speed, isnt stock an 8 pin on these?
by going to a 9 pin I imagine you are getting the chain speed back to where it would normally be on any other saw and 2 or 3 times the torque, so you can really lean into it
ive found I leave my rakers about the same as any other saw, if the chain is suuuuper sharp i can get away with some super deep depth of cut but as soon as it dulls I find I end up with a lot of binding up in the cut

Stock .404 is 7-pin. I have a similar but thicker 8-pin off eBay that works well, it requires +1DL. 9-pin requires a full- fledged racing sprocket with actual pins. 10-pin on a 25" bar puts the same stress on the motor as a 7-pin with 41" bar (mathematically).

I have a 3/8" 8-pin setup by using a 661 sprocket and 30" hard nose bar. Haven't put much time on it though.

@Long Bar 60 has the right solution for 3/8" bars (you @ZinTrees also suggested changing out the tip). Note that the thinner kerf of 3/8" (vs .404) would probably support an 11-pin sprocket.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

STIHL MS 881: Also cuts brush.


(brush piles not included with purchase)

 

[Long Bar 60]

Well, not exactly. The dealer doesn't stock anything above a 500i because it's Urban Wisconsin; I just happened to go to STIHL National Timbersports Championships at Germanfest in Milwaukee, Wisconsin both Saturday and Sunday and, well, you know how that goes...

So I walk into the dealer for oil/grease/parts resupply and they have an 881 sitting on the shelf; short of it is they had a special order for a customer and through a computer screw-up accidentally bought 2. (Sales manager lost the order and ordered a second, so two showed up.) They wanted to get it off the books and me, having recently gone to STIHL Timbersports (and looked at the display saws both days but left with two shirts)... uh, bought it.

They did cut me a huge deal on it, and doubled the saw warranty due to having bought STIHL Ultra oil. After the sale was done and we were talking they handed me a carb adjustment screwdriver, hex wrench, two squenches (Torx and flat-blade), chain file, two STIHL hats, dealership hat, and a STIHL counter mat.

I'm curious and of course you don't need to share this info but what was the huge deal that the dealer gave you?

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I'm curious and of course you don't need to share this info but what was the huge deal that the dealer gave you?

For AS members considering purchasing a 120cc class saw:

I probably shouldn't state that on an open forum because someone is going to say, "If he got that much off I should be able to get one for $____", --that or that I'm full of crap. It was a "right place, right time" situation and I'm extremely happy to have such good fortune and help out the dealer at the same time (win-win). Plus the dealer has been incredible with support since Day 1 years back when I bought the Kombi system so I'm glad we both came out on the positive side of the deal.

The dealership and saw are awesome--it's a torque monster. This past weekend I used it for wiping out a bunch of brush and.....I wouldn't do that twice, it's a lot of saw. (Those brush piles are in a ravine and about 3' deep, compacted, though they don't look it because it was snowing.)

If anyone wants to buy one: Go into it knowing it's not cheap to run because 3002-mount bars and .404 chain is....just look up prices and availability in advance and know what you're getting into. Plus it weighs a lot all-up, as the fuel and oil tanks are cavernous, though you should get decent run-time out of it.

Is it worth it, for whatever your dealer is selling it for? It's a lot of clams, but your friends and co-workers will envy you if you let them try it. When they have that huge grin on their face after a cut, then look down and see their boot buried deep in a pile of chips, yeah, it's worth it.


(Miss Wolf with one foot buried in a pile of chips after a cut--notice she's one-handing the 881 while stripping bark for the next cut.)

 

[Arcaninesy]

Hi all,

I bought an 881 (47" bar) on a whim in 2021 to turn a day-long-job with a 261 into a 2 hour job with the 881.









I find it heavy and unwieldy to use compared to the 261 except when I need it... But when I need it, I love it and I'm really glad to have it.

Question for big bar users/experienced arborists:

I have trouble felling big trees with the 881 because I can barely get the tensioning screw tight enough to keep the chain from derailing when I want to cut horizontally.

I get that it's a big saw and cutting horizontally with a big bar is difficult to begin with, but am I doing something wrong if I have to use all my strength on the tension screw? Even then, with the way the tension screw is designed, I feel like the screwdriver head slips out easily, so I'm also putting a lot of force into pushing the screwdriver into the tension screw to keep it seated.

Thanks in advance and best regards,
- Jeremiah

 

[ZinTrees]

Hi all,

I bought an 881 (47" bar) on a whim in 2021 to turn a day-long-job with a 261 into a 2 hour job with the 881.

View attachment 1163595

View attachment 1163604

View attachment 1163598

View attachment 1163601

I find it heavy and unwieldy to use compared to the 261 except when I need it... But when I need it, I love it and I'm really glad to have it.

Question for big bar users/experienced arborists:

I have trouble felling big trees with the 881 because I can barely get the tensioning screw tight enough to keep the chain from derailing when I want to cut horizontally.

I get that it's a big saw and cutting horizontally with a big bar is difficult to begin with, but am I doing something wrong if I have to use all my strength on the tension screw? Even then, with the way the tension screw is designed, I feel like the screwdriver head slips out easily, so I'm also putting a lot of force into pushing the screwdriver into the tension screw to keep it seated.

Thanks in advance and best regards,
- Jeremiah

the tensioner on mine i pretty stiff but not as stiff as yours, might wanna look into greasing the threads on the tensioner screw

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I have trouble felling big trees with the 881 because I can barely get the tensioning screw tight enough to keep the chain from derailing when I want to cut horizontally.

I get that it's a big saw and cutting horizontally with a big bar is difficult to begin with, but am I doing something wrong if I have to use all my strength on the tension screw? Even then, with the way the tension screw is designed, I feel like the screwdriver head slips out easily, so I'm also putting a lot of force into pushing the screwdriver into the tension screw to keep it seated.

Congratulations, it's an awesome saw. (Heavy though, realllllly heavy....)

To tension the chain:
Turn off the saw.
Put the tip of the bar on a piece of wood to prop it up.
Disengage the chain brake.
Loosen the bar nuts.
Tension the chain with the bar nose pushed up fully so the space between the bar and chain is 1mm to 2mm.
Tighten the bar nuts snug but not tight.
Pull the chain around the bar with a gloved hand so it travels the length of the bar.
Readjust the tension if necessary.
Tighten the bar nuts really firmly

For a sprocket-nose bar:
Less than 1mm will possibly burn the bar, depending.
More than 1.5mm can wear the drive sprocket quickly, and the chain might slap the top of the bar around where it lands on the bar after coming off the sprocket.

For a hard-nose bar:
Shoot for 1.5mm to 2mm.
Turn the chain oiler all the way up.

At least such is my experience, every situation will be different. Related OEM information attached.

the tensioner on mine i pretty stiff but not as stiff as yours, might wanna look into greasing the threads on the tensioner screw

Good point as dirt in the tension mechanism can cause issues. With the bar off the tension screw should turn smoothly, if not pull the cover off, clean and lube the system.

 

[ZinTrees]

I never leave any sort of gap between the chain and bar, generally tighten till its snug all the way around and lift the bar nose up, pull down on the chain in the middle of the bar to check tension, should freely pull out till the driver almost clears the rails and when release snaps back into the bar firmly

again, just how I do it, I've never worn out a bar or burnt one up doing this, I find any looser and I throw chains non stop, any tighter and it adds too much drag to the powerhead

although, for bigger bars I agree, this method over tightens the chain really, a 4ft span will sag more than a 2ft span, so play with it and find out what works best for you, your bar, chain, wood, etc, I do my stuff different than a lot of guys and my way ain't the best but its what works for me


also file off the bur on the edge of the bar, as the chain rolls around the bar it wears a "lip" into the bar edge and makes it cut like crap, gloves are a must, I generally refuse to wear gloves unless im welding but I skinned my knuckle the other day filing this bur off and 100% do NOT suggest doing that, it sucks

 

[HumBurner]

also file off the bur on the edge of the bar, as the chain rolls around the bar it wears a "lip" into the bar edge and makes it cut like crap, gloves are a must, I generally refuse to wear gloves unless im welding but I skinned my knuckle the other day filing this bur off and 100% do NOT suggest doing that, it sucks

In addition to filing the burs out, it's also good to dress the tops of the rails.

A bar should be able to stand on its own on a flat surface.

 

[ZinTrees]

In addition to filing the burs out, it's also good to dress the tops of the rails.

A bar should be able to stand on its own on a flat surface.

this too! I actually need to pick up a bar dressing tool next time im at the saw shop and a loop or two of .404 chain for the 881, should do that today really since I have a pretty big crane job tomorrow where im going to be running the 81 a lot

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

again, just how I do it, I've never worn out a bar or burnt one up doing this, I find any looser and I throw chains non stop, any tighter and it adds too much drag to the powerhead

also file off the bur on the edge of the bar, as the chain rolls around the bar it wears a "lip" into the bar edge and makes it cut like crap, gloves are a must, I generally refuse to wear gloves unless im welding but I skinned my knuckle the other day filing this bur off and 100% do NOT suggest doing that, it sucks

What chain brand do you run?
What bar oil do you run?
How high is your oiler set?

 

[ZinTrees]

What chain brand do you run?
What bar oil do you run?
How high is your oiler set?

stihl bars and chains, orange bottle stihl oil
oilers all wherever they were stock, run out of oil and gas about the same time, all my chains stay pretty well oiled

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

stihl bars and chains, orange bottle stihl oil
oilers all wherever they were stock, run out of oil and gas about the same time, all my chains stay pretty well oiled

What length bar (typically)?

 

[ZinTrees]

What length bar (typically)?

on the 881 I run a 42 (its what was on it stock, and biggest my local shop carries)

28 on my 500, 25 on the 391, 16 on the tophandles, 12 or 14 on polesaws

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

on the 881 I run a 42 (its what was on it stock, and biggest my local shop carries)

28 on my 500, 25 on the 391, 16 on the tophandles, 12 or 14 on polesaws

That's a nice selection of saws.

Are any your work saws muffler-modded, timing advanced, or ported?