Stihl oiler adjustment

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ramv102000

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Recently bought a Stihl 032 and don't understand how to adjust the oiler screw. It has markings 0 , - and + . But what mark on the screw is used as the pointer ? And does the screw turn all the way in or out , or just a half turn between the - and + ? How do I set it for maximum oiling ?
 
Typically oiler adjusters only turn about a half turn from minimum to maximum settings. Also typically turning clockwise is more, counterclockwise is less.
 
Recently bought a Stihl 032 and don't understand how to adjust the oiler screw. It has markings 0 , - and + . But what mark on the screw is used as the pointer ? And does the screw turn all the way in or out , or just a half turn between the - and + ? How do I set it for maximum oiling ?
Stihl, though not very well known for making chainsaws or blowers, has a good website with your S032 owners & operations manual downloadable for free.
The manual shows the oiler screw settings on page 24.
 
Stihl, though not very well known for making chainsaws or blowers, has a good website with your S032 owners & operations manual downloadable for free.
The manual shows the oiler screw settings on page 24.

Stihl isn't well known for making chain saws and blowers?!?!


Sent from my AutoTune carb
 
Stihl isn't well known for making chain saws and blowers?!?!


Sent from my AutoTune carb
I was being a smart azz, as most ops manuals are available from the manufacturers' or saw parts/repair websites.

But now that I think about it, the OP could have been out in the timber cutting firewood, and needing a quick reply on his cell phone...
 
Read the manual , but it still doesn't say what marking on the screw should line up with markings on the saw base.

Use the slot in the adjuster screw head for a reference , and it "normally" only goes a quarter turn or you'll shear the little roll pin off.

However, that saw also has a setting to run the without oiling for power head testing or when/if it's mounted on a Lewis winch. To shut off the bar oiler, move adjuster fully CCW (to screw head parallel with bar), and then push/press in firmly, then move another quarter turn CCW to zero. That position shuts the oiler off.

The same oil pump was used in the larger 056 Magnums and oils a 28" bar and chain very well.
 
Thank you , that's what I needed to know . The roll pin must be shearded off cause the screw will turn 360 . But the saw oils OK. So the way I understand it , for maximum oiling the slot should be parallel to the + mark ?
 
Thank you , that's what I needed to know . The roll pin must be shearded off cause the screw will turn 360 . But the saw oils OK. So the way I understand it , for maximum oiling the slot should be parallel to the + mark ?

Yes that's correct for maximum oiling, but I'd still pull the pump and replace the little roll pin as it's a slip fit crosswise through the adjuster screw & can now let the whole adjuster fall out. The "short" side of the slotted screw head is usually to the rear of the saw when you have it flipped over & the bar is pointing to your right. The orients a taper ground onto the adjuster screw body that the helix face of the pump end rotates against. There's also a cam cast on top of the pump body that the little roll pin follows, then it jumps a ledge when you push the screw in against spring tension and turn CCW, which allows you to go to the zero or off position.

I never look at the screw slot during reassembly, just look at the taper to set maximum stroke before the roll pin is pushed back through the adjuster screw. The screw pic in the ops manual is shown at max flow.
 

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I found some pics of the pump on ebay and can see how it works now , I plan on taking it apart in the next day or two . Thanks again, you've been a great help .
 
Yes that's correct for maximum oiling, but I'd still pull the pump and replace the little roll pin as it's a slip fit crosswise through the adjuster screw & can now let the whole adjuster fall out. The "short" side of the slotted screw head is usually to the rear of the saw when you have it flipped over & the bar is pointing to your right. The orients a taper ground onto the adjuster screw body that the helix face of the pump end rotates against. There's also a cam cast on top of the pump body that the little roll pin follows, then it jumps a ledge when you push the screw in against spring tension and turn CCW, which allows you to go to the zero or off position.

I never look at the screw slot during reassembly, just look at the taper to set maximum stroke before the roll pin is pushed back through the adjuster screw. The screw pic in the ops manual is shown at max flow.
I took it apart today, the pin was broken off on one side . Thats why the screw was able to turn 360 . I cut down a roll pin to fit , and now it works the way it's supposed too.
 
Good job, I guess some ham fisted sawyers screw those down tight like a bolt, as they're broken off quite a bit.

That kind of torque on the carb mixture screws will sure ruin the high & low jet seats too.

Those S032s are dependable little devils, and a great smallish sized firewood saw. My Dad still uses one that's about thirty years old, and I "get to" maintain it.
 
This one is a quick stop, when I took the clutch off I noticed 2 of the clutch pads looked identical with plenty of material left on them but one was bare steel. Found a used set on ebay , but pic looks the same as mine. One bare pad and 2 with clutch facing on them. Is this normal or do these saws always wear down one pad?
 
They should all have the same thickness material on them, I don't know what's up with that set of shoes.
If you were to replace the whole clutch, the later clutches are all steel & have a hex nut cast into them for
removal & replacing without a special spanner wrench. Uses the same drum sprocket as you have now.

It's not the old original QuickStop is it?, or do you mean you have a band type clutch brake.

These are parts for the original QuickStop chain brake, and it disconnects the clutch from the crankshaft, and
applies a tiny pad to the drum sprocket at the same time. It's kind of rare to see those anymore.
 

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Yep, that's the one I have. And the small pad is still in the cover. I was able to remove the clutch with a large cresent wrench , didn't need the special spanner . Found a couple used clutches on ebay . Was just wondering why only one shoe is bad.
 
Good luck with that, you're probably lucky to find any with lining.

I'm not sure what the part number is for the old 032 lined shoes, but I think the 041 series used the same ones.
 

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