Stihl TS400

[Dan Forsh]

Not sure why you're asking specifically about Nikasil but I have always found that the Tecomec aftermarket P&C for the TS400 is very good quality. There seem to be lots of cheaper alternatives about these days, but I would go with the Tecomec, I'm pretty sure it is Nikasil.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Not sure why you're asking specifically about Nikasil but I have always found that the Tecomec aftermarket P&C for the TS400 is very good quality. There seem to be lots of cheaper alternatives about these days, but I would go with the Tecomec, I'm pretty sure it is Nikasil.

It's the only other one I have found that even mentions anything other than just a cylinder. I wasn't sure if Nikasil was a brand or a coating. I will look at the Tecomec - where do I find them?

 

[Dan Forsh]

Nikasil is the cylinder lining material. I'm not sure where you would find a local dealer to you, but US distributor is Tilton Equipment.

You can go here to find your nearest dealer Tilton Equipment :: Contact Us

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Thanks Dan.

 

[alexcagle]

I would predict that squeek and resistance is loose crank bearings letting the magnet on the flywheel contact the coil and rust or shavings are the noise. It can be the resistance you feel as well.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

I would predict that squeek and resistance is loose crank bearings letting the magnet on the flywheel contact the coil and rust or shavings are the noise. It can be the resistance you feel as well.

After getting it torn down, it looks like the the noise and resistance was from the aluminum transfer on the cylinder wall. Hopefully by the end of the week I will get it all back together and have a runner again.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Well @#$%^&)@. Got it all back together, started it up and the cage bearing on the big end of the rod came from together. Got a piece on top of my shiny new piston and dinged it up a bit but luckily didn't get the wall of my new cylinder. New crank & bearings on the way.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

I haven't given up on this saw yet. I actually just got it back together this past weekend. Just about everything new engine wise. I put gas in it and it fired right up - I was excited. But, it wouldn't idle it kept smothering down and out. After I ran it half throttle for a few minutes and got it warm I let my finger off the throttle and it died. Then it wouldn't start back and smelled flooded. I check for spark and it was firing very very little. I walked away for a day, put a new plug in and it fired right up but again wouldn't idle. Flooded again and no spark. Today I walked out and it fired right off and would run wide open, half, but still wouldn't idle. When you go WOT it bogged down, half throttle and it would rev to WOT but sounded like it was starving for gas and almost die until I let off the throttle and bring it up slow to WOT. It would run all day if you kept your finger on the throttle but as soon as I let off and it idle down, it died and wouldn't even think about starting back.

I'm frustrated and need some help.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Did you do a carb kit and the normal fuel maintenance stuff? If not, I'd start with that first then base line the carb and start over.

Also...while we're on the subject I guess... Im finding these newer model cut off saws is lasting a long longer on the bottom ends. I know a lot of the new ones have a lot better air filtration system and I'm sure thats why. The TS400s had a decent air filter...a lot better than some. The TS420s have the best filter I've seen yet.

 

[Saw Dr.]

Did you replace the crank seals? Air leak is very possible if you had the bottom end apart.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Did you replace the crank seals? Air leak is very possible if you had the bottom end apart.

I did replace the seals and every gasket. I can't say for sure but I think it is an air / fuel mix issue or the coil is bad or going bad. I don't know how to adjust the carb and I did not put a kit in it.

 

[Fish]

That saw is notorious for insulation problems on the kill wire, try running the saw with the kill wire at the coil disconnected.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I did replace the seals and every gasket. I can't say for sure but I think it is an air / fuel mix issue or the coil is bad or going bad. I don't know how to adjust the carb and I did not put a kit in it.

Fish is right on with the kill wire. They abrade, and make contact. Also, when you put the seals in, did you take extreme care not to roll the lip over on the inside? Poor/no idle is almost certainly a mixture issue, but the engine may be seeing a wrong mixture due to fuel system or an air leak. You need to pull that carb out, and see what is going on. Also, I have seen several TS-400's with MS-290 fuel lines on them. Not sure if the factory was doing that or what. The proper setup uses a white 90 degree elbow that plugs into the fuel line where it exits the tank. The 1127 fuel line will begin to kink and reduce flow (and then crack) just as it exits the tank if it is used. Check and see if you have a 1-piece line, or a 3-piece. I do not return TS-400's to customers with the single piece line anymore. I have never seen a 3-piece line fail, but MANY 1127-358-7703 ones have. (what kind of looser am I quoting that number from memory?) I need a hobby.... Anyway, the carburetor may just need adjustment. Many of those ONLY have a low speed mixture screw, and no HS adjustment. If it is an air leak and you cover it up by enrichening the idle mixture, then it is likely to fry itself after a little run time. Do you have a HS screw on the carb, or just the idle speed and idle mixture?

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

I definitely didn't roll the seal(s). I don't know the number of fuel lines but I am going to pull it to where I can see in there and I will let you know it it has 1 - 3. Also, It has the carb adjusting grommet on the side with only two holes - is there another one somewhere else?

And I will try the kill wire first.

 

[alexcagle]

I definitely didn't roll the seal(s). I don't know the number of fuel lines but I am going to pull it to where I can see in there and I will let you know it it has 1 - 3. Also, It has the carb adjusting grommet on the side with only two holes - is there another one somewhere else?

And I will try the kill wire first.

I would almost bet that you forgot to plug the impulse line to the cylinder.
The seals leaking will make it idle really high.
If you smell gas, where is the source? The muffler, or the air filter housing.
Try that Dude......

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

Here's the carb and fuel line. It does have the white 90° fitting and no kinks or holes in the lines. I started it again last night and it was the same deal. It hit the first time I choked it, ran on 1/2 choke, died on full choke and was flooded. I did that with the kill wire unplugged.

View attachment 244960

 

[alexcagle]

Here's the carb and fuel line. It does have the white 90° fitting and no kinks or holes in the lines. I started it again last night and it was the same deal. It hit the first time I choked it, ran on 1/2 choke, died on full choke and was flooded. I did that with the kill wire unplugged.

View attachment 244960

Pull the orange top cover off, look under the intake boot on the back side of the white flange that the boot goes through for mounting the carb. There is small ribbed hose under it that links the cylinder impulse signal that plugs on a brass nipple that is just lower than the cylinder flange bolts. This signal, or pulse of negative and positive pressure in the crankcase is what makes the fuel pump diaphragm flutter back and forth pumping the fuel to the inlet needle that is opened by the atmosphere being higher pressure than the air going through the carb.
Sorry for the lesson in carb function......but. check the hose..... no . really.

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

There is small ribbed hose under it that links the cylinder impulse signal that plugs on a brass nipple that is just lower than the cylinder flange bolts.

The hose appears to be complete and attached at both ends. No splits or holes that I can find.

 

[alexcagle]

The hose appears to be complete and attached at both ends. No splits or holes that I can find.

Ok. Did you test the fuel line? If not, get a coat hanger and bend a 180 hook about the size of a pencil on the end. Fish out the fuel hose with filter through the fuel filler neck. Remove the filter, and pressure test to 8psi pressure. Then test it with 8psi vacuum. If you don't have a tester, you can make one cheaply with a compound guage that reads both positive and negative pressure. Like a fuel system guage. Then get a fuel primer bulb off any 2 cylcle equipment that has a remote primer bulb. It'll have two ports on the back side that you can generate the 10 psi positive and negative pressure to test with. You will have to get some small hose and a tee to hook it up, plus maybe a barb to adapter here and there, but it works! It's cheaper than the $250 tester that Stihl sells. At first block it off and make sure it holds the pressure, then test the fuel hose. Watch the fuel hose that it doesn't collapse under vacuum from being spongy. If it doesn't hold pressure, then squirt some soapy water with a sprayer to locate the leak. If it's not the hose, then hook directly to the carb. If it doesn't hold, then it's time to rebuild or replace the carb. If they all are good, then open up the carb and check for debris. Try those first. Later, Alex

 

[HorseShoeInFork]

I haven't tested the fuel line. Yesterday I picked it up cold, choked it and it hit on the first pull. Half choke and it ran on the next pull. No choke on the next pull and it fired and ran and would run all day long as long as I didn't let it idle down. When I did let it idle down it smothered out and died and would not hit a lick after that. I did check the gap on the coil and it is set properly. I'm so close but if it catches me on the wrong day it may become a boat anchor.