stihl vs oregon

[Gypo Logger]

I think most saws out there are running at least one drive link too many wether the operator knows it or not regardless of brand. Just another recipe for chain throw. DL count is formulated to accomadate 7 and 8T sprockets, so with use and normal chain stretch its easy to see why most chains are 1DL too long.
John

 

[MCW]

Another thing to remember as well when talking about how good this chain is or how good that bar is.

Have people actually used them all and given them all a good workout? I've heard people that don't rate Carlton chain but have never used it. I've heard people say that the Stihl ES bars are the best (they're very good and certainly right up there) but have never used a Tsumura. Some people dislike Windsor chain yet it's one of the best 3/8" semi chisel chains I've ever run. In .404" though I think Carlton is far better.

I honestly don't believe one single chain manufacturer can claim that every single model of chain they make is the best. Also what may be good in softwoods fails dismally in hardwoods and vice versa.

Also some bars wear quickly to start with but once the rails work harden a bit they settle down with negligible wear. If you hadn't run them for long you'd assume they are pieces of crap. I've put a fair bit of time on GB Pro Tops (Australian made ones) and Oregon Power Match Plus bars. I've never had a problem with any of them although I did toast a nose sprocket on a 42" Power Match Plus by getting too lean on the 3120's oiler

 

[Springy]

thanks everyone. just like anything else you get what you pay for.

 

[StihlKiwi]

If it makes people feel better I have had to regularly remove links from stretched Stihl chain brought to me by farmers etc (90% of people in my area run Stihl saws as the dealers near have a monopoly).
This has absolutely nothing to do with the chain quality but everything to do with people that flog the guts out of a blunt chain and turn their oilers all the way down to save 5 cents on bar oil. These guys also have massive bar wear, on one side, and have absolutely no idea on saw maintenance or chain sharpening.

The only time I have had to remove links from any of my well maintained chains is when I've spun them up 1DL too long and haven't left enough bar adjustment

All chains stretch excessively when abused, regardless of the brand. My father in law is a classic. I have had to remove 2DL from a 66DL 3/8" Stihl RMC chain with cutters still at 80% (on a number of his chains - this is not a one off). If it doesn't cut he just pushes harder instead of sharpening it and he always runs the old 029's oiler in drought mode. Getting tight with the oil is actually counter productive as chain and bar wear goes through the roof. Oil is cheap - bars, sprockets, and chains are not.

In my experience if cutting dirty hardwood Stihl's semi chisel will outlast Oregon. In full chisel I do like Oregon's LGX but prefer Stihl's RSC - both are good chains.
One thing I will say about Stihl chain though is that it ALWAYS oozes European quality straight out of the box.

I reckon farmers using one sprocket per decade contributes to chain stretch in a big way as well. I thought getting links removed halfway through a chains life was standard back when all I had to play with was the farm 029 :msp_biggrin:

 

[MCW]

I reckon farmers using one sprocket per decade contributes to chain stretch in a big way as well. I thought getting links removed halfway through a chains life was standard back when all I had to play with was the farm 029 :msp_biggrin:

Yep. The standard practice is to change the sprocket when the drivelinks start hitting the crank