imho these guys are right,i just got rid of a franklin stove, andgot an osburn 2300 airtight, the thimble and chimney are 8" and i put a reducer to go down to 6 from the thimble to the stove. It still has a great draft, but there is enourmous cresote buildup, im not worried about a fire, i clean it myself, but it stinks bad, and is a pita
Stove pipe
- Thread starter pacman
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mattmc2003
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Even with dry oak wood?
yes, im a landscaper, get at least 4-5 cords of free wood for myself every year, when i do a take down i will only take oak, cherry and maple.Ive been burning a face cord left over from last year thats bone dry cherry and oak.There is no problem if u keep the stove on med. or high, but on low cresote builds up insanely, when i first got the stove i burnt on low every night for 2 weeks, cresote was driping like water outa the outside cleanout and the glass was black top to bottom, i now never put it on low, c less buildup but still at least 10x more then with the old franklin.
mattmc2003
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Sorry man, but codes don't mean much if you ain't got much money. This house was built in 59. So.... I just think ya'll are gettin worked up over nothin. I work with men that i consider "old timers". 30+ of them. Most 60-70 years of age. And most all of them burn wood. they get up in the morning, pack the heater full, damp it down, and they got fire when they come in that evening. My dad burned wood my whole life with a rather large earth stove, and i can only remember him sweeping the chimney maybe once. And he uses same practice.Our heater at the shop where i work, is 8" out the top, out the wall, and dumped into a old 12" culvert pipe for a chimney. Stove pipe held up with coat hanger wire. It has been there since my dad started in the early 80's. My bottom line is...i appreciate all the great info, but code don't really mean a whole lot anymore. I've seen some cobbled up stuff work for years on end. Most of the folks who make a lot of rules, codes, and laws have little or no experience in the field they represent. I know, for example, the CDL driving test. I just passed mine a couple years ago. And its obvious that some of the rules on that test were not written by someone that knew about trucks. Some were way too lienant, some were way in excess. Im not saying folks don't know what they're talkin about, but sometimes just use the darn thing. IMO. Sometimes its just too much. I have no doubt in my mind it will work, and work pretty good. I've saw way worse. Sorry to offend anyone but i appreciate the advice, but sometimes the "code" stuff gets to me. If it gets blocked up, i'll clean it.
dwinch53
ArboristSite Operative
ok ok, one last thing...codes are put in place to protect you and your family..I could care less what you accually do.. I give up you win..I am not the one worked up here, i am just wondering what pacman is doing since he is the father of this here post...DW 
opcorn: 
opcorn: mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
too. Im just a poor redneck man. I got my house on credit, heater on credit, and car on credit...lol. Im gettin by.research the subject
If you are willing to research the project and learn enough about it to make an educated opinion codes don't matter. If you intend to simply go with your gut on a project in an area where you have no experience then it's good to do it up to code....
If you are willing to research the project and learn enough about it to make an educated opinion codes don't matter. If you intend to simply go with your gut on a project in an area where you have no experience then it's good to do it up to code....
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
Didn't say they don't matter on everything, sometimes they don't. But just cause it says so on paper don't make it gospel.
pacman
ArboristSite Operative
I was just wondering because I have seen alot of insulated stove pipe sticking out the roof tops that seems to be 6 inches. I was just wondering were they doing a good job. Now I do have a 6 inch pipe going into a 8x8 flue. It never draws smoke in to the house.
I knew if I needed to know about it this is the right place to find it out. Everybody seems to have different answers some time but most of the time they are still on the same page. Like the difference between coke and pepsi.
I knew if I needed to know about it this is the right place to find it out. Everybody seems to have different answers some time but most of the time they are still on the same page. Like the difference between coke and pepsi.
BIG JAKE
Let’s go Brandon!
Matt-today's stove pipe I believe all has to meet the same standard which (going on memory) is able to withstand 2000 or 2100 degrees for 30 minutes without structural failure. Creosote if it has enough air and it lights up can get this hot, that's why they have the standard as people have died and property been destroyed. Triple wall pipe must have proper airflow for it to function as designed-that means you must use a ceiling support box and pipe cap that all are of same manufacturer purchased together at the same time(which it probably was). If you screw around and modify that, and you have a chimney fire,the pipe will probably structurally fail and burn your house down. Pipe systems not installed to code will be discovered and insurance will not pay for your house probably. But the house is of lesser importance than is loss of life. I've been out of the business for 20 years but back then the general rule was you can neck up but not down, but only within design parameters of pipe system. I can't recommend you do this without seeing it-find a knowledgeable dealer and also contact manufacturer of your pipe system and stove. Ask them.
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
The roof cap is there. the ceiling support is there. All is well. It was used for a good amount of time before i got it. It was a fireplace. All i did was tear out the front of the fireplace (doors, and some trim, and the damper) and attatch an adapter onto the lip of the triple wall that was hanging below the ceiling support (fireplace damper was here). The ID of the innermost peice of triple wall is 10". It sticks down 6" into the old fireplace. I had a custom 10-6 adapter made out of 22guage steel. Out of the bottom of the 6" side it comes down six more inches, elbows out and travels about 30" to my cabinet style heater backed up against my hearth. Now how is this extra 40' or so of pipe going to make a disaster of a fireplace that worked fine for years? I just didn't want an inneffecient fireplace so i installed a heater. And i covered the old fireplace with a piece of 22ga steel painted black. The pipe travels through this with a pretty 6" collar too.
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
So they make two types of triple wall?
mattmc2003
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Where is a website that i can find info on triple wall?
So at first, everyone is telling me the draft will rise so slowly and cool off so quickly in my pipe, that i will have horrible buildup. Now, it will be too hot for the original fireplace pipe?
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dwinch53
ArboristSite Operative
I do not think you are going to find the answer you are looking for...It is unsafe...reline with stainless steel the same size dia as the pipe coming out of your stove...you said the chimney is only 10 ft...this is not much to prevent home or loss of life...I believe everyone is concerned and trying to help you...it is not like buying a new chainsaw..more power...longer bar..there is many choices there...with a chimney there is not DW
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
10ft is a guess. It is maybe 2.5 to 3 above the roof plus rain hood. So how would a 6 inch pipe inside my pipe help? Wow would center it in the 10"?
dwinch53
ArboristSite Operative
PACMAN...there ya are...now it all depends on what your chimney is made of, i am thinking because you said it was an 8x8 chimney that it is square, not round...this is far better going from 6 to 10 inch...you will not have as much pooling of smoke cooling than the 10 inch..is it prefab or older liners cemented in a block chimney..make sure all flue are good..going thru an attic and a faulty chim can be dangerous...relining with stainless is a great way to go...a friend of mine just relined his 16 foot for 500.00 please check with local codes...DW
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
It states that you can step up in size, although chimney and heater exit being equal is ideal. But, it also says that you have to step up the chimney area 3x the size of the stove exit size. And it says triple wall holds heat longer promoting good draft.
mattmc2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
But also from what i gather i had a pre fab fireplace. And a liner is reccomended.
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