stroking and boring 385/390

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Logger4Life

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Is it possible to bore a oem 390 jug 1mm and get it relined with nikasil to run a 395 or 2100 windowed piston same stroke. Or stroke a 385 3mms to use a weisco forged windowed piston same 54mm bore wrist pin to the piston top is 3mm shorter on the 066 piston or even more stroke since the added stroke is divided by 2.
 
Is it possible to bore a oem 390 jug 1mm and get it relined with nikasil to run a 395 or 2100 windowed piston same stroke. Or stroke a 385 3mms to use a weisco forged windowed piston same 54mm bore wrist pin to the piston top is 3mm shorter on the 066 piston or even more stroke since the added stroke is divided by 2.

Buy a bigger saw if ya want one.
 
bigger saw

I own a new 395xp and have cut down with 395's since I was 19 great saw indestructable . I also own 2/385's,2/390's,1/372BB,1/372xpw, and 2/084's. So I think I already have a bigger saw or 2 and a couple smaller ones to . I just like to play with stuff. now I'm getting a few saws that are not tip top anymore and have replaced them. I have learned over the years bigger is not always better. But I like torque and cutting speed and know that my Timbco 445exl w/Quadco 5660 disc saw processor head does most of the felling ,limbing,and topping I like my 390xp to carry in the skidder to buck logs with. But I like the torque of the 395 so that is why I was wondering about the 56mm windowed 395 piston with the over bored cylinder. or the stroked option. I like the in board clutch and the lighter weight.
 
I like playing with different things too, and im not saying it isnt possible, but it would probably take a few dollars. Theres just a few places that will replate a cylinder,,,, Its about 200/300.00 just for that if I remember correctly.

Not gonna say it wont work though. :msp_biggrin:
 
L4L,

if you have the time and ability I say do it...Id be very interested to see how its done and the outcome...especially the stroking/offset pin. Some here may be against it as they wouldnt know where to start or they have been told its to hard....bugger that :rock:
 
I figured if I were to buy a OEM P&C I would have the same amount of $ tied up in it so why not try. I guess I will never know unless I try.
 
Where are you going to get a "Stroked" crankshaft from(Someone sells them?),unless you can adapt a crank with a longer stroke into your saw?

Mike, there are companies in the USA and id imagine in Canada also, that will take a stock crank and modify it....L$L is talking about making his own, ie pressing apart the crank and making a offset pin etc
 
I'd like to see how they stroke a stock crank...
Some years ago I had an idea in my head for a few years to build a full circle race crank for a saw and eventually I designed a blueprint and built a full circle Titanium race crank with a 2mm longer stroke. I actually built(My machinist made them) 3 of them and sold them for the 2094 Jonsered,one saw I used for a while before I sold it. The full circle crank was actually a few grams lighter than a stock crank.
I know Mr.Walker was making a few full circle steel cranks,but I wanted to go a step better. I chose to make the cranks for a Jonsered because I was able to get 3 con-rod assemblies(Rod,crankpin and bearing) form the Jonsered factory in Sweden.
I've never heard of stock cranks stroked so I'm surprised.
I'll try to post a couple photos here,a stock crank beside Titanium full-circle stroker,the light setting on the camera wasn't set right so the photos aren't great...

View attachment 189387View attachment 189388
 
Hard to see in the photos but I had "Knife-edged" and polished the conrod beams,and plugged the counterbalance holes in the titanium flywheels with magnesium plugs.
The 2mm longer stroke made the 2094,2095 Jonsereds 99.8cc, almost max. for the 100cc class competition.
 
Very good idea Trappermike

I bet the were not cheap titanium is expensive . how did they run? I was a machinist before I started logging and have always loved making more power. I know that Arizona Crankworks will stroke and rebalance a crank for about $300.00 by welding the pin hole partly closed then redrilling it offset then press it back together and balance. I was going to make an offset ground pin that was cross drilled for strength and less rotating mass I thougt that way it might stand a chance of being balanced still. first time messing around with saw internals but I bet without dreamers like me streching the limit of their abilities technology would be at a stand still.
 
OK I see,I was wondering how they'd do it. Your idea should work too,I don't know how much you can hollow out the rod big end pin before it breaks,I figure there's a lot of load on it at 13,000. I wouldn't worry about the "balance" too much,2-stroke singles aren't really balanced at all it seems,I've changed the weights of things(Like much heavier piston) and they have stayed together at full speed.
As for the titanium cranks the magnesium was harder to find than high strength titanium. On the "machinability" index titanium is one of the most difficult metals to machine as my machinist found out but it's really strong,I finished the cranks by polishing them too,figuring out how to balance a totally new crank took some thinking but I got it right. The cranks worked really well,ran smooth and boosted power by the substantially higher crankcase compression ratio,and of course because the hole for the rod big end had to be machined into the crank's flywheels I could basically choose where,for the stroke length,I only stroked it 2mm to keep them under 100cc.
The first time I put one of those cranks in a saw and revved it up,I kinda held the saw at arm's length,I wasn't sure if the whole thing wouldn't blow up,but they were fine.
I had some leftover titanium and made a few small experimental parts,one- a titanium wrist pin was half the weight of stock,but not a HARD enough material,I put one in a used 064 and sent it out for a weeks work with a faller to test it,he brought it back and it never broke,but when I took the wrist pin out it was incredibly worn!!
 
I've wondered about drilling out the rodpin some too to lighten it,but never tried it.You're a machinist so maybe go ahead and try your idea,stroke a crank and lighten the pin some,with a lightened wrist pin which you can do,a stroked and lightened crank assembly! Extra cc's and rpm's to boot,good idea. :msp_wink:
 
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