stuck exuast bolt
- Thread starter osb_mail
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Ray Bennett
ArboristSite Guru
Spray it with PB let sit for a day Then spray again, Let sit. Then You can try a regular drill bit and an easy out or a reverse drill bit. If it dont come out You may have to drill out the whole thing and retap 1MM bigger which I had to do once. Real pain but your only other option would be to replace the jug. If PB will not loosen it nothing will. I have found it to be better than liquid wrench and WD 40
Ray Bennett
ArboristSite Guru
With a saw that small you may be able to get away with Just running it with 1 bolt anyway. I am assuming it has 2 bolts, if it has 3 you can definatly get away with using just 2 of the 3. The best would be to drill it out and replace it but I bet you can get bye with just one.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
You need BOTH bolts. Don't drill it out oversize -you need it to be 5mm to fit though the muffler - and be sure to use the correct cone washers on the muffler.
You can't put a stud in place of the bolt - the muffler slides in sizeways with case on, and if you put a stud on, you'll have to pull off all the shrouds to get it on or off.
Drill in the center with a LEFT HAND drill. it might just come out on its own. if it doesn't, then just use an easyout in the drilled hole to undo it.
If the thread is damaged, use a timesert insert.
You can't put a stud in place of the bolt - the muffler slides in sizeways with case on, and if you put a stud on, you'll have to pull off all the shrouds to get it on or off.
Drill in the center with a LEFT HAND drill. it might just come out on its own. if it doesn't, then just use an easyout in the drilled hole to undo it.
If the thread is damaged, use a timesert insert.
Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you tried some sort of penetrating fluid? I'd try a good pair of vice-grips on it after since it sounds like you have enough of a nub ta grab, being careful not to crush it or snap it off further. Maybe a bit of a pre-heat with a paint stripper on the surrounding cylider. If that doesn't do it then ez out. Just a thought, and Andy's advice is, as usual, right on.
Serge
Serge
Frank Boyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you are going to drill it, make sure that you center the hole. Use a drill press or a mill if possible. Flatten the broken bolt with a punch or grind it flat. After it is flat then center punch the center of the bolt and make sure that the drill is going in straight and centered. Start with a small drill bit and work up. Take your time and do not break off a drill or easy out in the broken bolt.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
If the bolt is above the surface of the aluminum, you can put a nut over it and weld it to the broken bolt. Be careful of the heat with the aluminum, weld it fast so that the the bolt and nut are welded before much heat transfers to the aluminum.
PB Blaster works pretty good. If that does not work use a small propane torch and put a little heat to the aluminum around the bolt.
PB Blaster works pretty good. If that does not work use a small propane torch and put a little heat to the aluminum around the bolt.
CharlieG
Addicted to ArboristSite
Before drilling, maybe get a stud puller or a visegrip on the part that is sticking out. After penetrating fluid has been liberally applied over a few days. If you can't get any purchase, then go the drill and easyout way. Good luck
.
.
COLD_IRON
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
It's dead easy.. just leave the handle assembed unless you like chinese puzzles.
The short version:
Take out the carb, undo the THREE buffers, disconnect the GREEN wire at the front mount, pull off the black wire from the handle, disconnect the impulse hose, push though the boot and lift off the handle assembly. Pry up the intake boot retainer and remove the boot. Remove the lower panel on the clutch side and slide out the muffler. Remove the recoil, 4 tank screws and slide off the tank.
Now you have pile of filthy parts, but you can get at the screw in question.
The short version:
Take out the carb, undo the THREE buffers, disconnect the GREEN wire at the front mount, pull off the black wire from the handle, disconnect the impulse hose, push though the boot and lift off the handle assembly. Pry up the intake boot retainer and remove the boot. Remove the lower panel on the clutch side and slide out the muffler. Remove the recoil, 4 tank screws and slide off the tank.
Now you have pile of filthy parts, but you can get at the screw in question.
Last edited:
Mr. Obvious
ArboristSite Operative
Try a "GRABIT" extractor. Sears has them although not by the same name. It has the drill unit to make the hole on one end and the extractor on the other. A set of 3 should have the size you need. Sears calls them screwouts or something like that.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952151000P?vName=Tools&keyword=screw+out
Left handed drill bits may work but nobody carries them in stock except one place. I did find eventually that you can buy individual left handed drill bits at the local autozone in the tool isle (at least in the stores I go to).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952151000P?vName=Tools&keyword=screw+out
Left handed drill bits may work but nobody carries them in stock except one place. I did find eventually that you can buy individual left handed drill bits at the local autozone in the tool isle (at least in the stores I go to).
scotclayshooter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just to add a wee tip to the above, if it was a little proud of the aluminium ( i know its not a did read the rest of the thread) i have had great success by mig welding on a washer first. you can make a proper job of welding on a washer, then a nut onto the washer its a much stronger way of doing it and i think i transfer less heat doing it that way
Last edited:
Mr. Obvious
ArboristSite Operative
Here is a slick threaded drill guide for a bolt broke off inside a hole. Take the threaded guide that comes in the kit, thread it in the hole until it touched the broken bolt and then drill a perfectly centered hole.
I used one of these to remove a bunch of stainless exhaust manifold studs that were broken off below the surface in my aluminum headed Ford V10 Excursion.
For high strength or stainless bolts cobalt bits work real good.
http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Cobalt-...f=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202485368&sr=8-21
You can make one yourself as well.
http://www.boltmasterusa.com/
I used one of these to remove a bunch of stainless exhaust manifold studs that were broken off below the surface in my aluminum headed Ford V10 Excursion.
For high strength or stainless bolts cobalt bits work real good.
http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Cobalt-...f=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1202485368&sr=8-21
You can make one yourself as well.
http://www.boltmasterusa.com/
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
A little heat can often help with a stuck bolt. Be careful that no fuel is inside the engine or you can have an unpleasant surprise. I'll assume you'll have it disassembled so its clear of all plastics and other parts that can melt. A propane torch works very nice, and if you're careful an oxy/acetylene torch with a fine tip works even better. As others have suggested, I'd center a hole and drill it, then try an extractor. If it doesn't budge, apply some heat. If its broken, there's a reason, and most probably its not coming easily without some persuasion.
Dan
Dan
Well heres what happen I tried the easy and it broke .looking at both holes closer they were both worn and the one that did not have a stuck bolt only had a few threads at the bottom so I decide I had to so I made the holes bigger got a few pictures of the before none of the after I will get some later on
