stuck exuast bolt

[Lakeside53]

Broke the easyout? I suspect someone used red loctite in that hole... which is why the bolt broke in the first place. Heat while using the easyout might have helped.

You might want to plug the holes, then retap to 5mm (or put in timesert inserts) The bolts need the special 5mm cone washers on top of the muffler to stay in place. The exhaust gasket is set to grip the 5mm bolt. PITA to put a gasket in without the grippers..

 

[Frank Boyer]

You can burn out broken drill bits and easy outs in steel. It would be very tricky in aluminum. You can always weld it back up and retap the holes.

 

[kevin j]

BROKEN OFF STUD
I use the left handed, cobalt steel bits. Run heavy pressure and slow speed. Center punch and pilot a small hole, then another hole with larger bits. As the metal gets thinner and thinner it relieves some of the radial pressure holding it in. The vibration in the left handed direction also helps in the right direction. At some point, the larger drill often snags and spins out the slug. If not, at some point it is almost full size and the remaining metal is easier to take with either a tap, or an extractor. The key here is that the original pilot hole was centered well.

Personally, I don't like the tapered extractors, they work by wedging outward in the hole, which tends to bind even more. I have a very old snap on set that has fine flutes with only a few degrees of taper, but then has a square shoulder at the top. The shoulder bottoms on the broken surface and there is less wedging action. They are also short and stubby and sturdy and less likely to break off in the hole from bending. A T handle or tap wrench is best, balances the forces and not put bending on the extractor.

Worse than a broken stud is a broken hardened drill or extractor now in the hole....

Then, lots of Nevr Seez on the new bolt.

 

[osb_mail]

what is the purpose of the gripper on the gasket lake ? Is it a must have or can it just drill them out to the size of the new bolt ?

 

[Frank Boyer]

My favorite easy outs are branded snap-on and rigid. They are about 3 " long and have flutes on them. After the hole is drilled you pound them in and slide the "nut" from the kit down the shaft till it contacts the broken fastener. You then use a wrench to turn the nut on the easy out. The drill bit, shaft and nut come in the set. I have 6-8 different types of easy outs and these work the best.

 

[galde]

extracting bolt after breaking easy-out in stub

Cutting a slot in the broken end with a dremel with a cut-off wheel of small diameter can create a slot for a flat bit to be turned with a 1/4" box end. In most cases it doesnt hurt to overshoot a little on either side of the tapped hole if the overshoots are if the best direction.

 

[Lakeside53]

what is the purpose of the gripper on the gasket lake ? Is it a must have or can it just drill them out to the size of the new bolt ?

They hold the gasket on the screws when you slide the muffler in... if not you'll be pulling it all apart everytime. I "fixed" several 200T's with a partially blocked exhaust port - gasket diagonal and held by one screw. Also, your new screws won't accept cone washers on top of the muffler.

I'd just do it right and put 5mm torx back in..

 

[user 19670]

Just to add a wee tip to the above, if it was a little proud of the aluminium ( i know its not a did read the rest of the thread) i have had great success by mig welding on a washer first. you can make a proper job of welding on a washer, then a nut onto the washer its a much stronger way of doing it and i think i transfer less heat doing it that way

I used this method for the 34 years I was in the trade. Never saw it fail. Never saw it goiter the aluminum either although I always thought that it would. It even worked well on studs that had broken off below the surface of the aluminum.