stuck or seized bar tip

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I found a couple of old threads dealing with this issue and thought I'd throw my 'fix' into the mix.
Cutting a decent size Euch (about 40" base) the other day with my 066/36" and the bar tip wound up barely able to turn at the end of the day...obviously not enough oil despite the Aussie oiler installed a couple years back. Anyhoo...tried soaking it in mineral spirits for a couple days as suggested in a couple threads and that freed it up a tad but not nearly enough. Today I tried hitting it with Brake cleaner and that really got the thing turning. after several applications of that I then used some Boeshield T-9 (similar to WD-40) and it got better. I then used some Simple Green degreaser that I'd remembered had easily cleaned the stains on the bar from Tan Oak and Euch in the past and that did the trick. Tip is now working good as new after re-oiling :D
Next time I'll just start with the degreaser.
 
?What is Euch? I googled it and it doesn't come up with anything pertaining to wood or trees.
 
Euchalyptus is my guess. If your bar tip sprocket is jammed brushing it over some carpet/wood will usually get it spinning again. Hold the bar using leather gloves with the sprocket nose facing the ground and swipe it over the ground to free up the jam. Good luck
 
i lived in norcal so i know what euch is but what is the ' Aussie oiler' you installed, never heard that before ?
 
yes, Australian OE oiler for the 066/660 puts out more volume...pt # for complete oiler or retro parts can be found in other threads.
The problem isn't chips/dust clogging the tip but the wood resins. W/o a huge amount of oil flow into the tip these resins can literally 'gum' things up...sticks to the bar sides as well and the best stuff to get it off, for me, has been the Simple Green/Purple, etc. stuff. I've had the same problem cutting large Tan Oaks as well as Eucalyptus both white and red gum. Even with good oil flow on short bars, I've had tips get clogged but usually they can be cleared by just pulling the trigger for a while out of the wood to get the oil more concentrated into the tip.
I'm thinking the 12 or so cuts at over 36" w/o letting the tip clear is what caused the problem in the first place. The resins harden and stick to anything like a powder coat and are very hard to even scrape off w/o some sort of solvent. mineral spirits didn't even faze it.
 
you could try easy-off oven cleaner, designed to dissolve burned on organic residue. i have cleaned plugs with it too.
 
About three months and are using my PP 5020 AV I started having this repeat problem I finally put in a vice in the bar by itself and opened up the bar tip opening where the chain right through just open it up ever so slightly with a cold chisel real gently and is never done it again

(Siri..)
 
About three months and are using my PP 5020 AV I started having this repeat problem I finally put in a vice in the bar by itself and opened up the bar tip opening where the chain right through just open it up ever so slightly with a cold chisel real gently and is never done it again

(Siri..)
that works if you have pinched the tip.
 
I worked on a husky 136 that was used to buck the head off a buffalo. The tip and clutch didn't fare to well. But after some re&re and a woods port it smartened right up.
 
Once or twice a year, the sprocket on my 16" bar seizes. I carry a small ball peen hammer in my toolbox which I use to tap the teeth on the sprocket in both directions until the debris clears and the sprocket spins again.

When I'm cleaning up my saws at the end of the day, I blow the bar rails from the sprocket back to the heel of the bar to clear out the gunk and put a squirt of WD-40 around the sprocket. Then I make sure the sprocket spins freely and put the bar away for next time.
 
Simple Green is good on wood resins. We run a little in the water tank on the Lucas mill, helps keep the blade clean. I use Purple Power at home but living near the ocean I always treat afterward with WD-40 or I will have rust the next day.
 

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