stump cuts

[yorkpaddy]

i'm new to chainsawing. I have an 026 with a bored out muffler. The saw cuts well in most situations but I can't make a clean cut across a stump. My chain is sharp, so far as I know, I have sharpened it about 3-6 times and I haven't lowered the depth gauges yet.

When I try to cut off a stump, (Cutting it so that it is flush, or close to the ground) The saw starts going into the wood, throwing chips but soon it just throws saw dust, maybe an inch or two into the cut. I can get it to throw chips for a little bit more if I sink in the bucking spike and use that to pivot the front of the bar into the tree, but soon it bogs if I do that.

I mostly cut bradford pears that are downed by storms, If I were bucking the log, the saw would handle it fine

what should I do different?

 

[jokers]

Hi Yorkpaddy, I`ll take a WAG since noone else has. Stumps are dense and hard and I think it`s possible that your rakers need to be lowered. I think once you get past the outer softer layers and into the more dense rings your chain isn`t rocking enough to get a good bite. Is your chain sharp enough to pull from the stump cut and make a few good bucks or is it dull when you pull it out? The lower portion of trees typically have dirt and grit embedded in the bark which will dull your chain. I`d like to know what anyone else thinks. Russ

 

[Lobo]

Paddy,
I believe that jokers is on the right track. Your 026 has plenty of power to handle that task, I also believe your chain to be the problem.

Go back to your dealer and get a new RS 23 chain (if your running 7 tooth rim sprocket) put it on and try again, you will find a world of difference. Leave your older chain with your dealer to be resharpened properly on his machine.

Hand sharpening chains is an art and for most of us it takes years of practice before we get it right or even close to right. LOL

 

[rick_reno]

I'm cutting stumps with a new 260, biggest is about 30 inches in diameter. I found the best method is to walk the saw around the base of the stump. I have to cut them real low so I can get in with my bobcat and grab the logs.

 

[timberwolf]

Another vote for the rs chain, I have a 260 set up with .325 RS and have no problem with stump cuts. Brother-inlaw has more problem making dust rather than chips with his 039 runing RM chain, but his chains are dull or misharpend half of the time.

Timberwolf

 

[Lobo]

Paddy,

After thoughts on your problem just in case, over and above my previous post:

1- Make sure your bar is perfectly straight
2- Make sure your bar is fastened tightly
3- Make sure that the chain is tight on the bar also, that it is not loosening up in any way and that the chain did not stretch.
4- If you have an adjustable oiler, adjust it to it's maximum for this task (afterwards you can reset it back to it's present position)

As jokers mentionned previously many times stump fibers are denser and tighter which puts additional strain and pressure on the cutters, plus add dirt, rocks etc., several combined factors makes this task more arduous on the chain and wear the cutters down very quickly.

Let us know how you make out - LOL

 

[yorkpaddy]

isn't the RS chain the one that lacks the kickback protection? i'm a bit scared to run that at this point, what are your thoughts?

 

[Lobo]

Paddy,
Not sure how old your saw is but if you purchased it in the last few years it probably came from the factory with .325 pitch - 63 gauge RS 23 to start with on a 16" bar. If you are not sure take it to a dealer he will tell you exactly what is on it. If that is what it came with, as previously mentionned purchase a new one and try your stump again, you will probably be amazed at the difference with a chain not properly sharpened.

 

[bwalker]

isn't the RS chain the one that lacks the kickback protection?

Yes, it is a pro chain w/okickback lessining tie straps. It also cuts a hell of alot better and is no more dangeroous to somebody who has the skills to run a saw. If you need safety chain you should'nt be running a machine that is as destructive as a saw IMO.

 

[treeclimber165]

Nobody has addressed the most common reasons for a saw binding 2"-3" into a cut. Worn chain drive teeth or a worn bar groove will allow the chain to lay to the side a little. In combination with a slightly mis-sharpened chain, the saw will cut to the side a little and bind after a few inches. A loose chain with a sloppy bar will make stump cuts difficult at best, even with a sharp chain.

Technique will make a difference, too. Many people tend to force the saw sideways even without realizing it when making horozontal cuts. Concentrate on holding the saw level and letting the saw cut the wood. Forcing the saw into the wood will certainly bind the bar in a crooked cut. Use your right hand on the top of the top handle, pushing in line with the cut. Grabbing the bottom of the top handle (near the gas cap) with your left hand and trying to pull the saw from that leverage point will bind you up every time.

 

[JimL]

Originally posted by Lobo
Paddy,
Not sure how old your saw is but if you purchased it in the last few years it probably came from the factory with .325 pitch - 63 gauge RS 23 to start with on a 16" bar. If you are not sure take it to a dealer he will tell you exactly what is on it. If that is what it came with, as previously mentionned purchase a new one and try your stump again, you will probably be amazed at the difference with a chain not properly sharpened.

26RS is .63 gauge
25RS is .58 gauge
23RS is .50 guage

 

[JimL]

Originally posted by treeclimber165
Nobody has addressed the most common reasons for a saw binding 2"-3" into a cut. Worn chain drive teeth or a worn bar groove will allow the chain to lay to the side a little. In combination with a slightly mis-sharpened chain, the saw will cut to the side a little and bind after a few inches. A loose chain with a sloppy bar will make stump cuts difficult at best, even with a sharp chain.

Technique will make a difference, too. Many people tend to force the saw sideways even without realizing it when making horozontal cuts. Concentrate on holding the saw level and letting the saw cut the wood. Forcing the saw into the wood will certainly bind the bar in a crooked cut. Use your right hand on the top of the top handle, pushing in line with the cut. Grabbing the bottom of the top handle (near the gas cap) with your left hand and trying to pull the saw from that leverage point will bind you up every time.

When I first started felling, I would tend to push my saw down and make a crooked cut. That slowed things way down. I was using an 038M then.

Now with an 066 I just get her straight and plunge in, till my spikes hit and pull/push on the rear handle. Might not be able to use this on an 026.

Your saw have felling sights?

 

[Lobo]

JimL,

Thank you and you are correct the 23 RS is .50 gauge and not .63 as I had posted.

Thanks again for catching my mistake.

 

[yorkpaddy]

my saw is actually a MS260, i just like the sound of 026. I bought it in july. I have two loops of green strap stihl chain. I try my best to respect the power and danger of the saw, but knowing myself i get careless sometimes, and this isn't a place I want to take chances in. I probably will get the pro chain and love it, but i'm new to sawing and don't have experienced people guiding me (i'm 20, and haven't grown up around saws) i want to ease myself into sawing.

About pulling the saw crooked into the cut, that is a definte possiblity, I tried every way to make the saw go straight, pushing the saw with my hand closer on the top bar to the chain but it never seemed to work. the saw always angled up. The bucking spikes are only on the engine side of the bar and this seems like a poor design that would always make the saw want to pull to that side.

I appreciate all the input and help from you all

 

[rick_reno]

I've never had a problem with my 260 binding or kicking on when lopping stumps off. It will tighten up a tad right at the end of the cut when the stump wants to settle back on the saw - I just push them over and trim the remainder. A saftey concern for me is when the saw goes all the way thru the stump it can come out fast - you don't want your leg in the way when the bar pops out of that stump.

 

[Lobo]

Paddy,
MS260 & 026 are thesame saw, both super saws.

Chain models must match the sprocket on your saw and be of the correct gauge to run in your bar. If you do not know or are not sure bring it in to your dealer and he will tell you exactly what model chains you can run with your present set up without having to purchase a new rim sprocket and bar + chains, this will be of less expense to you.

By the way a poorly cutting chain or dull chain in my view is more dangerous than a sharp chain that is self pulling in to a cut.
Dull chains skip and jump all over the place.

LOL

 

[stihltech]

rm

The RM chain is not the best felling chain. The kickback straps make it impossible to use the end of the bar, proved it myself. Was bucking up with no problem. Tried to plunges cut for back cut and could not. Thought I dulled the chain. Went back to bucking with no problem.
I just figure Stihl thinks anybody using RM chain should not be falling trees. They may have a point.

 

[dbabcock]

Rick,
I hear ya on the bar coming out of the stump just as the cut is finished. I've almost nailed myself in the leg or foot a number of times. I now force myself to walk around the stump as I cut so I'm not standing in the way of the bar as it comes out. I like to finish the last portion of the cut fast so as not to bind the bar as the stump settles into the kerf. The 3120 can be a real handful near the end of the cut if you're not paying attention as it tries to push the bar back out at ya.

 

[timberwolf]

isn't the RS chain the one that lacks the kickback protection? i'm a bit scared to run that at this point, what are your thoughts?

I'm not a big fan of green link chain, I feel that it tends to give people false security. Green link chain is still dangerous but allows people to get away with more (things they shouldnt be doing any way, it allows the formation of bad habits).

I belive that one is likely at more risk forcing a cut with a ineficient chain than cutting eficiently with a sharp more agresive chain.

follow safety precautions and Invest it proper safety equipment, in just putting on my safety equipment I put myself in a safety mind set. I learned that firefighting, when I put on the gear I put myself in the required mindset, it worked for me so far (knock on wood).


good luck
Timberwold

 

[StIhL MaGnUm]

I agree with you very good words..


Later Rob...